Hogsubie

Well, I completed my first axle change. Took a while, with only minor snags. You should have seen the cv boots. There was maybe 1/10 of the out boot still connected. The inner boot looked like those construction paper lanterns we all used to make in first grade, but with really large openings! Still got my core charge back though. All in all, things went pretty good thanks to the tips gathered from this board. Thanks to everyone who's posted info on this topic. The biggest problem I had was getting the axle pin back in. I had the 3/16" drift punch (the one with the round dot on the end ...Which I highly recommend) but I actually started to drive it into the pin. So I got a 1/4" (flat) puch but I couldn't keep it centered. So I went up to the next size (3/8" I think) and still had problems keeping it centered, plus it just didn't seem like it was driving in. I rotated the stub axle (?) coming out of the tranny and I think that was it. Still very tough to drive the pin in though, but I finally got in with the big puch and a 4lb. sledge! I am beat...good night! Jason

I just thought of this... When I remove the front right axle, am I going to loose all my tranny fluid? If so, what kind of fluid do I need to get? I know this topic has been around a few times, and I've got a manual that I've read through, but don't recall this part. Any last minute suggestions? Thanks, Jason

If you were looking at the Ackerwheels site... on 15" wheels it says Spare...I noticed the size too. I called them to check on Pug wheels. None in stock right now, maybe soon though. 14" or 15" steels go for $45 to $50 each!!!!

My idea for a factory Brat is to use a Forrester and cut the top off behind the front seats (2 seats only). Then you'd have a bed about the same size as a small truck. Probably larger than most of the "new" 4 door small pickups.

uh...Hemostats...man!

Now that I take a closer look...I see the email address. I'll shoot him an email.

SteelyDel...are you there?

I'm about to do the same albeit I'm not converting from 2wd to 4wd. I've got to change the front axle. Do yall recommend impact (air tools) for removal? I'd rather not buy a regular socket and not be able to remove it. To reiterate one questions. What's the recommended punch size? Are there any other tools needed? All suggestions are welcome. Jason

Is it 4wd? D/R...S/r? Manual...auto? What did your son actually do to the door? When you say "it won't close"...is swung wide open or will it just not latch? Can you get pictures? What condition is the interior in? I might be interested...parents are headed that way (Detin) later this month. Can the door be rigged closed so you can drive it until it's fixed? Thanks, Jason

Does SOA have any accesories still available for AE81. I've got an 81 dl 4wd wagon. Just curious. Jason

What would it take to convert an 81 DL 4wd wagon from single round headlights to dual round headlights? What year/wagon...hatch...brat/model(gl, dl, std [uh..heh..heh]) Anyone done this before? Hogsubie

I had rubber floor mats instead of carpet in my first car (non Subaru) and it was the greatest. Bucket of water, scrub brush, any kind of soap and it's clean. No carpet stains. I wish I had that in my wagon.

I use Outlook at home and Outlook Express at work, but couldn't find the newsgroup thing mentioned. So I just went to msn.com and did a search for alt.autos.subaru and found the site to subscribe.

Did you fabricate that light bar yourself? How about some info on it. How'd you do it or where'd you buy it? Looks good. One suggestion though. I'd do the same paint treatment you have on the hood on the area below the door ding trim. That way you could clean up the rust on the rockers. Another suggestion would be to use some of that truck bedliner paint to provide a little more protection if you are rally-x'ing. Just make sure you prep good or the stuff tends to chip/flake off. Jason

What kind of smell and where is it coming from? That will determine how to get rid of the smell. If its from water getting inside you want to fix the holes then get something to dry things up. I can't remember what it's called but there is this thing you can toss under you seat that is basically a big bag of dessicant (sp?) which is like those little white bags of "DO NOT EAT" that usually comes with electronics and other various things. You'll also want to clean things out really good. For a temporary solution, Febreeze works pretty good. Hope this helps. Jason

What is the color code for your yellow Brat? Have you repainted? It doesn't look like the yellows from the brochures. Looks good BTW. Jason

I'm going to try to get the most welder I can...it'll just depend on how much $ I've saved and how bad I want it. Let us know what you decide and how it performs.

I found a thread from the old board with more info... http://pub52.ezboard.com/fgrassrootsmotorsportsfrm0.showMessage?topicID=7763.topic Here's another one... http://pub52.ezboard.com/fgrassrootsmotorsportsfrm0.showMessage?topicID=7664.topic There are a few people still posting to the old board (I don't know why) but it's mostly trivial stuff. If you want to ask questions, I'd do it on the new board. Hope this helped. Jason

If you are looking for a reasonably priced welder check out Harbor Frieght. I post on Grassroots Motorsports message board as well and this topic comes up quite often. You can find it at http://www.grmotorsports.com and select the message board link. I don't know what the model # is but alot of people seem to be happy with that particular welder for smaller jobs like body panel replacement. Here's one thread in particular... http://www.grmotorsports.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=238&highlight=welder edit...Sorry I just looked through that thread and realized they didn't really talk about the HF welder. Previous threads may have been on their old board as they just changed their message board as well. I'll try looking through the old board for info.

This is advertised in a local thrift paper in northwest Arkansas... RIGHT HAND drive mailman’s dream. ‘93 Subaru Legacy Wagon. AWD, auto., AC, AM/FM cassette, power windows, runs great. 871-9061. I found this in there as well... 1991 SUBARU Justy. 2 dr., 5 speed, cold air, red paint, looks good, cheap transportation, $895. B & K Auto Sales. 479-636-2963.

But how did you do it?

What are some specific things to look for when inspecting axles?

I appreciate the info. I check these guys out.

I need new cv joints , but all the local parts stores just sell whole axle assemblies. They want around $60 plus core. How much are individual cv joints and does anyone sell just cv joints? Is it worth it to replace just the cv's? Is it best to replace the whole axle all at one time? Thanks, Jason

I don't do any serious off roading so it should be okay (right?) If I can talk them down enough I may have parts to sell. I know its got some 8 spoke alloys on it. I've got Jackman's on mine so I won't need them. I'll be posting if I get it. Thanks again, Jason