Mark Humble

I would plug it with RTV just to keep things like small rocks out. Water and dust can get in even with the sensor installed. Mark

Thanks, thats what I needed to know. Mark

My neighbour has a '02 Forester that he just bought, and was thinking of changing the timing belt. And the question came up as to whether or not the EJ25 is an interference engine or not. And are the Gates kits any good? Mark

I hade a speedo cable on a 69 Mustang make a noise like that until I lubed it. Mark

In watching your video. it sounded like uneven cranking, as in broken timing belt. The drivers side belt breaks the most often, and its the one that drives the dist. That may be why you have no spark. An easy way to check is to remove the dist. cap and crank the engine and see if the rotor turns. That should be checked first before looking at anything else. Mark

+1 on the green diagnostic plug. Check to see if someone has connected both the green and white plugs by the wiper motor, drivers side fire wall. These should remain disconnected. I see this alot around here, the meth heads just can't leave things like that alone. Mark

Next time I need to replace a half shaft and don't know the spline count, I am going to pop out the roll pin on one side and slide the DOJ back enough to count the splines. Then put it back together until the parts (correct parts) come. Mark

Tom, Thats not a bad idea. I may do just that, beats driving the old Chevy. I mean, at this point I would rather drive my new lawn tractor the 18 miles to work. With no power steering or brakes, my truck sucks. I never knew it until I got the Soob, it spoiled me. Mark

The parts house web site I bought from, gets their application information from the manufacture, and if you go to APW International's web site,(the manufacture) they show 4WD as having 25 spline. Sure not a lot of help there. And the parts house dosen't show a difference from turbo or non turbo. Because of all this, I get to drive my old 69 Chevy 1/2 ton PU with over 400,000 miles on it. Its going to be a long week. Thanks for all the info so far. Mark

Hi Everyone, So I ordered some halfshafts for my 89 GL wagon, 4WD manual trans. The parts web site was showing a 25 spline axle for my car. Well guess what? Car has 23 spline. The shafts are APW and even their web site showed the 25 spline for the 4WD wagon. So now my car is sitting on jack stands until the correct parts come in. So my question is, what type trans have what splines and how would one know what he has without taking the thing apart? This trans is a DR. The parts house said it was thier fault and are making things rite. However it looks to me that the supplier gave them the wrong info. Are Subarus really that mysterious? This car has 259000 miles on it and none of the front end parts have been replaced or taken apart. Even the brake pads have never been replaced. It really gave me a fight taking things apart. Then I changed the left halfshaft on my friends 2000 Legacy and that was easy, smooth as slik. Oh well, I still love my Soob. Mark

Thats interesting that the FWD rear shocks will fit the 4WD and raise it up some. Might be something worth doing. Just trying to determine which shocks to order for this car is a pain. Not enough information out there. Mark

Hi everyone, I would like to replace the rear shocks on my 89 GL Wagon,4WD. What would be a good brand to use? I have looked at Rock Auto Parts but don't see any listed for my car. Are the shocks for the wagon the same as the sedan? I seem to have found a number for AC Delco and two numbers for KYB, but not sure of which KYB numbers are correct. AC# 530-101 KYB# 341065 KYB# 341063 Also, are there any stronger springs that can be installed to handle heavier loads? Thanks, Mark

A friend has been calling me with questions about his car not shifting into FWD. I'm not familiar with the push button FWD selector system. He says when the switch is pressed there is a click from the firewall area but the FWD light on the dash dosen't come on and it dosen't go into FWD. Any things he could check? Keep in mind, although I am a mechanic, he is not.

Scrach what I said, just found it in the book.

Might check to see if the voltage at the alt output terminal increases above one volt after startup. As for using the tach, I think that the tach is driven by the ECU, somebody correct me if I'm wrong. If it is you may have to get your signal direct from the tach or the ECU.

It did toe it out a bit and readjusting the toe did help, but by moving the wheel forward it also increased the caster on that side so now it pulls to the right. I hadn't thought about bending the radius rod. Sure wish the suspension was as adjustable as my old 69 Mustang.

I don't think the radius rod is bent, for the wheel to move forward it would have to stretch. But I can't rule out the radius rod mount might have been bent forward. I thought it was strange that the wheel moved forward not back. But thats where it ended up.

So I blasted a football sized rock with the left front on my 89 GL wagon. It bottomed out the suspension and bent the rim some. I didn't notice any difference in the handling of the car afterwards, but after a week the tire started to get a blister on the sidewall. So I had four new tires on the car and it started pulling to the right really bad. So I put the tape measure to it and found the left front to be 1/4 inch farther forward than the right front. Anyone know what might have bent to account for this? My thought was that it might be the strut. Just so everyone knows, I measured from the rear axles and many points on the body and came up with the same difference. If only the radius rods were adjustable.

Try pulling the plug wires off one at a time, if its a rod knock then the knock will soften quite a bit once you get the right cylinder. If its a lifter the knock will still be there.

I was having overheat problems recently, replaced the radiator and even with the A/C on and going up hill it dosen't even get past half scale. The original radiator was a single core and the new one a dual core. Radiator Barn got it to me next day at a very good price, $134. Made all the difference.

EA82 engines are non interference. Just broke a belt on my way home from work today. Just slapped another one in and off I went. Bad thing was, it was a well used belt I put in. And just yesterday I was driving by the parts store and thought about getting a set of new belts and decided not to. Just goes to show you, if you think about it , then do it.

Intake air duct. Check at the wrecking yard, should be able to find one there.

You didn't by chance get the fuel lines going to the injector reversed? One is pressure and the other is return. If thats not it then the fuel pressure should be checked and the injector checked to see if it is working. For the injector test, if I remember correctly, the injector should have power to it with ignition on, and the ECU grounds one wire to activate the injector. And yes, fuel goes bad fast. I have been hearing that in Cali, it has a shelf life of 30 days. After that it goes down hill fast. I had one engine, an 11 hp Honda, with fuel that was 2 1/2 months old that would not start. This engine normally would start if you just looked at it. Put fresh fuel in and it started first pull.

The bottom one looks like a bearing set and the cotter pin is for the wheel nut. Never know if what you see is what you get until you get it.

It's normal. When you take the cap off you're letting air into the engine that didn't go through the MAF sensor first so the ECU doesn't know about it and can't adjust the fuel to compensate for it.