MoscowSubaruDude

Can you buy the damn things in America? I seriously want one...

So I'm not quite sure where to put this, but it's based off the STi... so new gen gets it. Holy crap this thing is nuts.

An easy trick I use to keep the crank and it associated attachments from moving is this: Get your #1 cylinder to BDC (bottom dead center), and remove the spark plug from it. get a few feet of nylon rope, just small enough to fit through, and start threading it into the cylinder. Use clean rope, otherwise you'll damage the walls. Fill the cylinder with as much rope as it'll handle, and then get to work on the flywheel or whatever. The rope will keep the cylinder from going through it's cycle, effectively locking the crankshaft, and thus, the flywheel. Just be sure to remove the rope before you try and start the motor. Also, from experience... leave about a foot hanging out. It's a pain in the rump roast to get out of there with nothing to grab. CR

I shall be trying that later tonite. Thanks for the help. I'll also look into getting a new alt. I fired it up today, to see what was up, and it is WAY overcharging, as in the voltmeter is pegged above 16. I'm thinking the VR went dead. I'll try the fuel pump idea though, rig up a switch and some wiring. Thanks a ton. Expect more questions though:)

So I bought a hatch from a member who lives around spokane. It's been driving fine, great motor on it, minor issues that i worked through. One of them was the complete failure of the ignition switch, so I rigged up some switches and a pushbutton for the starter. Here's where the problem started. The wire that normally operated the starter, coming off the column, wasn't fully functional. As in, it wouldn't crank the starter, so two new wires were put in, it worked fine. The car, however, simply wouldn't start unless that single defunct wire had power. The second the motor fired, it would keep the starter running, and had to be shut off immediately. This setup worked ok, until the whole car went berzerk. I was down in Plummer one night, and it died on the road. After pulling into a parking lot, i got it running, kinda. It would run for about 20 seconds, on average, and then die. Another weird symptom was that upon starting, the windshield wipers would cycle through, once, and then upon it dying, they would get through a half-cycle. The weird thing is, I had the accessories wired through a switch. That switch was off the entire time. The car also refused to rev higher than 3300, stumbling if I tried to shove it higher, with the tach going completely haywire, 0 to redline and back and everywhere in between. I swapped out the alternator with a spare I had in the car, and it revved ok, for the 20 seconds it stayed running. The alternator was bum (low voltage), it came out of my loyale and was on it's way to the parts store. It should have run just fine on the battery alone, but it wasn't. It's still not wanting to run right, and I'm thinking it's a short somewhere in the wire bundle from the dash to the ignition. Some idea's would be helpful here, and/or a simple wiring schematic to simply re-wire the entire ignition system (coil, disty, dash, and everything else in between). I've traced the entire wiring system from hell to breakfast, and I haven't found any problems. Any suggestions will be helpful, and I'll be laying hands on a new alternator come payday, to see if that might be the problem. The car is currently stuck in Spokane, as I don't feel like driving 140 miles back home while having to restart the car on the fly every 20 seconds. Thanks for the help, in advance. Chris

Tap the starter with a ballpeen hammer while someone cranks it. Sometimes it gets a bit stiff and combined with corroded cables and whatnot, won't turn over. Tapping it has always worked for me.

Well... brand-spanking-new Everstart battery, the known good alt out of my dead EA81, and she's back up and running. Someone mentioned about the various dash lights lighting up dimly... I had the park brake light on nonstop, just dimmer, when it was not parked... 20 minutes under the hood, that went away, the 'charge' dummy light turned off, and she drove home no problem:headbang:. Thanks for the help guys, much appreciated:)

Would perhaps adding distilled water to the battery (to replace whatever was lost when it boiled/leaked/whatever) help it out a bit? it only needs to get home, I've got a big ol' honking truck battery waiting to go in... haven't had time to put it in, and now I'm kicking myself. I'm not sure how heavy the battery was to begin with, as I haven't had it out of the car yet, but I picked it up and it felt somewhat lighter than most batteries. As in, I could lift it up without much effort, whereas, normally, my noodly arms are about ready to pop. Well, not quite that bad, but you get the picture.

So I think I blew my alternator. It's been giving the usual signs, the most significant, today, when I was driving down the freeway and it suddenly lost power. I got a push from the DOT dude in the big truck (I really need to get one of those push bumpers:headbang:). It's interesting though, I went back to the car after about 6 hours, and tried to start it... fired right up, no problem, zero electrical issues, went two blocks, and she did it again. Once again, zero battery power. The battery has been leaking, which is another decent sign, if I recall, it's something to do with pumping AC through the battery.. Also, my ghetto radio shack-issue handheld CB, when plugged into the cigarette lighter with the motor running, has been making a whining, rpm-fluctuating noise for the past week. Engine off, she works great. Possibly AC instead of DC, again? So I'm headed back into town to rescue her from the park'n'ride. I have 2 EA81 alts around here, good when they were pulled. Will they work in the EA82? There's enough residual juice in there for a start, she started again after I pushed her back to the lot (painful experience, I must say), so I'm not worried about getting a jump. I just need the electrical system to power itself for about 20 minutes while I drive like a madman back home. So... whatcha say? Alternator? Or something hideous? I'm betting on the alt, but maybe I'm wrong. Any advice, tips, thoughts, etc. Greatly appreciated. Thanks C

My '93 Loyale is, like other EA82 cars, gutless... but when it comes time to sh*t'n'git, she picks up, and gits. I've been surprised at the freeway mergers that I thought were going to kill me, and then I look down and I'm going 10 over, thinking 'how the hell did I get moving that quickly.' I think the stickers act as a super-advanced micro-NOS system though.

West, downtown area... about a block west of Laserquest/Wild Walls.

That'd be one helluva spring wakeup! Better put a splash guard on your back wall for when those mice come flying outta there at speed.

So I was rolling down 2nd Ave this afternoon, around, say, 5pm. Drove past All Line insurance, and I saw this gen1 brat sitting there. Did a double take as I drive by, because it's all done up like a WW2 fighter... shark's teeth on the side, Allied star on the hood, bombs painted on the side, all around nice rig. Idaho plates, and I've never seen it before... who's was it? Just curious, and wanted to give props, because that's a sweet looking little truck. Forgot to mention the A-bar push bumper up front, and the welded tubing one in the rear.

Might fog the motor, get some of that fogging spray... dunno if it's any use while the motor is in the car, but it'll prevent surface rust on the cylinder walls and whatnot from condensation. I have also heard that starting it weekly isn't that great for motors, unless you get them nice and hot and let them run for a while... something to do with condensation in the motor not all evaporating out, and the heat from the 10-minute run only catalyzing the rust reaction or oil breakdown. Can't remember it precisely, but I don't run motors for less than an hour when it's being stored, if at all.

I'm here in Airway Heights... just look for the red Loyale with SUBARU down the sides and lots of lights, and the nut in the drivers seat.