
color-blind
Members-
Posts
90 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Contact Methods
-
Website URL
http://
Profile Information
-
Location
Seattle
-
Occupation
Subaru tech.
color-blind's Achievements

Advanced Member (3/11)
10
Reputation
-
Have the air fuel ratio sensor inspected, if can fail and not set codes. You need to monitor the fuel trim in order to determine if the air fuel ratio sensor is working properly. Secondly, remove the spark plug wires and look for oil in the tubes, you may have oil contaminating the ignition wires. Good luck.
-
Purchase your coil from the dealer-they're not that expensive. If the plugs are ngk or nd then leave them in; if they any other brand change them out. Their is a chance you have a tight valve; yet this is rare. Start with the coil if you still have problems have the valve clearances inspected. The converter really isn't that big of deal, unless you need to pass a state emissions test. Since they don't tend to plug you should not have any driveability problems. You'll just be politically incorrect by driving a car that is polluting the air we breathe, LOL. Have a good weekend.
-
Do a leak down test on cylinder #4. Leakdown tests are more accurate than compression tests. Check the valve clearances,-you may have a tight or slightly burned exhaust valve on cylinder #4. In addition check the egr valve and ports, you may have a sticking egr valve. Be fair warned if the valves are too tight then the damage may allready be done. It is common for the valves on cylinder #4 to get too tight then burn a valve. Good luck.
-
Find yourself a local Subaru specialist, and have them take care of it for you. The heads normally only need to be surfaced, be sure the shop uses factory gaskets. In addition make sure the shop pulls the engine. This way you can have the rear seperator plate replaced at the same time. Also the rear crankshaft oil seal and the o-ring. In addition be sure to replace all 4 cam seals, front crank seal, oil pump o-ring, water pump, thermostat and timing belt. This is not a job for someone that does not specialize in Subaru vehicles. If they use aftermarket gaskets or make a mistake with the torque procedure you'll get to have it done over. Also make sure the shop is capable of adjusting the valves, this should be done when the heads are installed. Good luck.
-
Before we can quote this, please post exactly what was done and the prices. For example, how many hours labor and at what rate? What specifically was replaced? Timing belt, cam seals, water pump, thermostat, drive belts, crank seal, oil pump o-ring, any tensioners? What a lot of people get confused on is that not every shop does it differently. Believe it or not a lot of shops/dealers do not replace the water pump. Some shops don't replace the seals. And some shops even replace all the tensioner and idler bearings. Replacing tensioners and idlers can add $300-$400 on the bill.
-
Don't lose sleep over the head gaskets. When it happens deal with it. For now make sure your car is caught up. Basically you don't want your car to need a lot of work and head gaskets. So be sure to have the following inspected; cv boots, brakes, oil leaks, wheel bearings, and if you have a check engine light on fix it-black tape is not allowed, LOL. Good luck.