color-blind

Replace the knock sensor-its cheap, clear codes, and have a good weekend.

First make sure that you installed an oe gas cap, no aftermarket caps allowed. Then look at the charcoal cannister make if you see no obious damage to it then install hose clams on the hoses that attach to it, clear codes and see how it does. Good luck.

Have the air fuel ratio sensor inspected, if can fail and not set codes. You need to monitor the fuel trim in order to determine if the air fuel ratio sensor is working properly. Secondly, remove the spark plug wires and look for oil in the tubes, you may have oil contaminating the ignition wires. Good luck.

What is the year and model of your Subaru? For starters throw that "cheap" sensor in the trash and get an oe sensor.

With new head gaskets install you have put your finger in the dyke so to speak. So now anything that is weak will fail. This is common; more so on high mileage cars. Many times one will replace a head gasket then later the hoses start to fail.

Pull the engine and replace the head gaskets. Be sure to replace the seperator plate, rear main, and o-ring while the engine is out. Only use oe Subaru head gaskets, and have the heads surfaced.

Purchase your coil from the dealer-they're not that expensive. If the plugs are ngk or nd then leave them in; if they any other brand change them out. Their is a chance you have a tight valve; yet this is rare. Start with the coil if you still have problems have the valve clearances inspected. The converter really isn't that big of deal, unless you need to pass a state emissions test. Since they don't tend to plug you should not have any driveability problems. You'll just be politically incorrect by driving a car that is polluting the air we breathe, LOL. Have a good weekend.

Have you replaced the coil? Most mis-fire codes are from ignition wires and coils. You will then need to replace the front converter chances are the damage is done. good luck,

Do a leak down test on cylinder #4. Leakdown tests are more accurate than compression tests. Check the valve clearances,-you may have a tight or slightly burned exhaust valve on cylinder #4. In addition check the egr valve and ports, you may have a sticking egr valve. Be fair warned if the valves are too tight then the damage may allready be done. It is common for the valves on cylinder #4 to get too tight then burn a valve. Good luck.

Find yourself a local Subaru specialist, and have them take care of it for you. The heads normally only need to be surfaced, be sure the shop uses factory gaskets. In addition make sure the shop pulls the engine. This way you can have the rear seperator plate replaced at the same time. Also the rear crankshaft oil seal and the o-ring. In addition be sure to replace all 4 cam seals, front crank seal, oil pump o-ring, water pump, thermostat and timing belt. This is not a job for someone that does not specialize in Subaru vehicles. If they use aftermarket gaskets or make a mistake with the torque procedure you'll get to have it done over. Also make sure the shop is capable of adjusting the valves, this should be done when the heads are installed. Good luck.

Before we can quote this, please post exactly what was done and the prices. For example, how many hours labor and at what rate? What specifically was replaced? Timing belt, cam seals, water pump, thermostat, drive belts, crank seal, oil pump o-ring, any tensioners? What a lot of people get confused on is that not every shop does it differently. Believe it or not a lot of shops/dealers do not replace the water pump. Some shops don't replace the seals. And some shops even replace all the tensioner and idler bearings. Replacing tensioners and idlers can add $300-$400 on the bill.

Ok, here it is, you owe me, LOL !! http://www.tranquil-usa.com/

Don't lose sleep over the head gaskets. When it happens deal with it. For now make sure your car is caught up. Basically you don't want your car to need a lot of work and head gaskets. So be sure to have the following inspected; cv boots, brakes, oil leaks, wheel bearings, and if you have a check engine light on fix it-black tape is not allowed, LOL. Good luck.

First you need to find out which codes are stored in the computer. Once you find this out; post your results. From your description is sounds like you have an air flow meter failing. Yet I need to know what codes are stored first. Good luck.

Yes, doesn't everyone?

It is very rare for a Subaru to crack a block. The 1990 2.2 did have a problem with the block. The 2.5 does not, remove the heads and have it inspected. I get tired of hearing all these hacks tell customers they they have a cracked block. It is simply not true. Goood luck.

The time really isn't the issue here. Has the rear seperator plate been updated from plastic to aluminum? In addition once they overheat they tend to damage the oil seals. So when the engine is out you can replace the rear crankshaft oil seal, seperator plate, and the plate o-ring.

You are correct you can leave the engine in to replace the head gaskets. Yet that is the incorrect way to do it. The reasons for removing the engine are the following-more access to adjust the valves, replace seperator plate, o-ring and rear crankshaft oil seal. If the vehicle is a 5-spd inspect and replace clutch if necessary. Good luck.

You are correct you can leave the engine in to replace the head gaskets. Yet that is the incorrect way to do it. The reasons for removing the engine are the following-more access to adjust the valves, replace seperator plate, o-ring and rear crankshaft oil seal. If the vehicle is a 5-spd inspect and replace clutch if necessary. Good luck.

Hate to break it to you, still sounds like head gaskets. When the head gaskets start to go you can burp the air out of them. Usually lasts a week to a few months. Get ready to pull the engine for head gaskets.

You really need to find a way to get the codes to clear. I normally use my oe scanner, try disconnecting the battery for a time. Cam and crank sensors of your vintage Subaru rarely fail. Knock sensors, coolant sensors, and air mass meters are common though. You also may have a problem with the main relay. Yet I need to know what codes come back. You also could try dis-connecting the ecu; that also may help clear the codes. Chances are you have both a failing temp sensor and a failing knock sensor. The air mass meter is the expensive one. Good luck. If you get the codes to clear, be sure to post which codes come back.

Save your paperwork. The light will come back on. They should have replaced the converters. If your lucky the light will come back on soon. If not keep your paperwork as evidence. Those converters fail more often than head gaskets.

You need to re-set the system. There is a black button under the dash on the drivers side. Sometimes it is hard to find, good luck.

Lets just say so far this week I've done 3 converters. It is a problem area just like the head gaskets. If anything is hurting them I'd suspect the air fuel ratio sensors. I've seen many that have codes stored for the air fuel ratio sensor and converter. I've even tried installing the air fuel ratio sensor first then reinspecting them only to find a code stored for the converters.

Ok, I checked today. The p1507 their should be a flash update for the ecu, ask your local dealer. Basically they reprogram the ecu. As you now know your converters will fall under the emission warranty. $70 is pretty good for a diagnosis, I'd charge ya $80, LOL. Good luck.