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color-blind

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Everything posted by color-blind

  1. Here is a new website you all may like. http://development.axis-creative.com/dev/spx/sub/index.asp
  2. Ok, I'm new to this thread so please bear with me. What year is this vehicle and what is the engine size? Is this the 2.5 or the 2.2? Did you install an oe coil pack? Did you save the freeze frame data on the scanner? What I also need to know is if this vehicle is coding when it is warm or cold.
  3. Replace the front crankshaft oil seal and the oil pump o-ring. While you are in there install a new water pump and thermostat along with a new timing belt. The camshaft seals on the 2.5 are optional to replace. The oil pump is the common oil leak. Be sure to use only oe Subaru parts. Good luck.
  4. You should check with Subaru. I believe that the newest clutch componetry comes as a kit. The kit contains the flywheel, cover,disc and bearing. The flywheel is the source of the vibration problems. I would only use oe parts.
  5. There is a service bulletin on clutch judder #03-51-02F. Basically it is replacement of the clutch disc, cover, release bearing and a new flywheel. You have too many miles to claim warranty. While the clutch is out be sure to have the rear separator plate inspected. If it is the old plastic type have the new aluminum plate installed. Good luck
  6. Egr problems are the most fun so here we go. Remvoe the egr valve and make sure that all the passages are clear. In addition make sure the metal tube is cleared out. The most common problem is the bpt valve and second clogged passages. If these repairs are not the fix you need to look at the map sensor. It monitors vacuum thus it can tell if the egr is working. If the egr is not working the map sensor tells the computer to set the egr code. There is a small filter inline on the map sensor hose it is common to fail be sure to replace it if you believe the map sensor is your problem. As to the knock sensor code; simply replace the knock sensor. Good luck.
  7. If they coil is failing there will usually be a mis-fire on more than one cylinder. For example there will be a misfire code for cylinder #1 and #2 since they are tied together. Other times you may get misfire codes for all 4 cylinders that too is usually coil failure.
  8. This is a known Subaru problem see service bulletin # 03-52-03R. Basically the bulletin has you install an updated clutch slave cylinder and clutch hose. I've seen a few of these need clutch master cylinders as well. I'd play it safe and replace the clutch master cylinder while your there.
  9. Ok, sounds like you have two problems. First remove the exhaust y-pipe. Inspect the guides on #3 cylinder. If they have dropped down you will need to replace the cylinder heads. For the stalling I would suspect a failing air mass meter. Yet you need to go after the mis-fire codes first. Just to make sure the mis-fire is not causing other problems.
  10. Is this vehicle a 2.2 or a 2.5 engine? Does the vehicle actually stall out? If the vehicles actually stalls/dies is it up a steep hill? Are there other codes besides cylinder #3 misfire?
  11. You are correct it is not a Subaru. Nissan blower resistors fail often. They do not have as many problems with blower motors as Subaru does. If one wants to be really cheap it is possible to remove the resistor and solder it back together. If it fails again then replace the blower motor.
  12. The blower resisitor has failed. When you go to speed 4 it by-passes the resistor. Yet the blower resistor failed for a reason. This is usually caused by a failing heater blower motor drawing too many amps. I would replace the resistor and the blower motor with oe parts. You could try just the resistor, yet don't be surprised if it fails again within a month or so. Good luck
  13. This is a very easy job. You should be able to do it yourself. Do you know what codes were in the computer?
  14. Ignore the converter code for now. First you need to determine the misfire code. I would suspect plug wires or a failing valve/guide. It is easiest and cheapest to simply replace #4 plug wire. If you have access to a leak-down tester you should check #4 cylinder. As far as the converter is concerned it is common for failure. Yet you have more pressing concerns with the mis-fire.
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