Subarian

I've had many EA82 engines that responded well to some Marvel Mystery Oil. A quart in the crankcase, and drive it a little hard (rev it) and there's a good chance you'll fix it.

I replaced mine with solid state resistors about 100,000 miles ago. I can't remember the resistance values, but I checked the resistance in the remaining coils and multiplied by what appeared to be the total. I went to an electronics parts store and spent a total of about $3.

You'll have to use an automotive urethane sealant. The piano wire will work if you're patient and the weather is warm. Take the broken windshield out first so you have a little practice. Practice getting the piano wire through the sealant several times, as that's where it's most likely to crack the glass.

90 Legacy 2.2 auto 2wd. I bought it to use the engine for a project car- the trans was toast. But when my daughter got her license, my wife decided I should fix it for her, so I put in a wrecking yard trans. It worked fine, but a couple of months later daughter was playing in the snow and got it stuck. By the time she got home, it had no reverse. Here's the interesting thing: reverse works fine when it's cold, but once it warms up it's gone. Any thoughts? (and yes, I've checked the ATF)

Sorry, I broke rule no. 1. It's a 94 Legacy SI 2.2 AWD automatic. I got it running, and now it's throwing a code 35 again. It's backfiring and running rough off idle, but runs OK at higher engine speeds. I tried blocking the vacuum port the purge control valve pulls off of. That made some difference, but it still doesn't run right.

Just a thought- is the return spring still in place?

I've had an intermittent check engine light for a while, and it wasn't causing drivability problems. Lately the mileage went down, and then it started to run rough. I figured maybe the O2 sensor, so I checked the codes and found 32 and 35 (O2 and Purge Valve). I checked the purge valve and it seems to be fine. I bought a new O2 sensor at Autozone (Bosch universal) and installed it. Cleared the codes by removing the ECM fuse. When I started it, it ran up to fast idle fine for about 15 seconds and then died. I tried it several times with the same result. I connected the black OBD connectors again, and now the CEL just flashes continually. I checked continuity on the O2 sensor lead, and it seems to be OK. I could use some ideas.

Thanks. I'll give it a try in the morning. Anything I need to be especially careful about?

I bought a 90 Legacy sedan 2wd automatic for my daughter. The guy said it had a "small" transmission problem. When I checked it out, I realized it was the differential. It was filled with ATF and chunks of metal. I got a used trans in a wrecking yard off a car with over 200,000 on the odometer. I'd rather use the trans I've got in the car, since it has a lot less mileage and I've seen it shift. The wrecking yard diff is smooth and quiet, so I'm not concerned about it. I have the diff separated from the trans, but I'm not sure how to remove the pinion. I'd appreciate any help.

What? There are actually people who pay more than $500 for a car?

It's not my son; he's already got one of my Subarus. It's my friend's son, and his dad originally came to me and asked me to find him a project car his son could work on to learn about cars, but now dad is backing out.

I'm trying to convince my wife. My friend doesn't want it- his son wants a newer car. He's sitting across the table from me right now and I'm trying to talk him into it. I might have a hard time with my wife. Right now I've got three 86 EA82 wagons and two first-generation Legacy sedans. She's having a hard time understanding why I need another Subaru.

Welcome. And congratulations on getting a Subaru that's barely broken in. You might want to reseal your oil pump and take a look at replacing your water pump while you've got the t-belts off. And I use anti-seize on the timing cover bolts when I put them back on. It makes the job a lot easier the next time (70,000 or 80,000 or 100,000 miles down the road). A word of cauton. Some manuals have the timing belt procedure wrong, as they show both belts with the cam timing marks up. You'll install one side, rotate the engine 180 degrees, and install the other. When you're done, the timing mark on the flywheel (the center of three hash marks) will be aligned with the pointer, and one cam mark will be up and the other one down.

There's a 2.38% difference in overall diameter between the 185/70/13 and the 175/70/13. I don't think it's going to make a huge (or even noticable) difference.

It only comes on when your tank has about 2 or 3 gallons left. My gauge doesn't work, but the light does, so I use the odometer and the light to make sure I don't run dry.