destey

Taking the sun roof glass out doesn't require dropping the headliner etc? Just undo a few bolts? Are they hidden behind the plastic trim? Curious in case I have to do this eventually, but for now I think the silicon spray appears to be working. Had a couple of thunderstorms with a decent amount of rain and no leaks so far.

I'll give it a try. Thanks!

I had always thought the engineers accepted that some water would work its way around the metal roof, hence the channels that act like gutters and the 4 drains. I think this is all working ok in my car. Seems like the water is just taking a path unintended by the engineers (comes out on the plastic covers that snap onto the sliding glass). I'll try and take a pic of where its leaking down from I'm thinking you're right on the money with the silicon spray. The seal seems dried and slightly shrunk. Any recommendations for brand or can I just go to walmart and buy "silicon spray" somewhere in the auto aisle?

Got a 2000 Legacy GT limited, sun roof leaks after a rain. Drains are ok, I poured water down them all. I did some searching and people talk about the seal on the rails. But that doesn't look like its where its coming from. The water appears to be going between the seal and the glass and leaks down on the car seat, never making it outward to the rails and drains. Looks like it was designed for some water to go between the seal and the car sheet metal body, but not between the seal and the glass. It would appear as though this seal has dried/weather checked and isn't functioning anymore. Anyone know where to get this seal?

I actually tried to do that to the original driveshaft after I felt vibration. Bought a kit supposedly that would work in my driveline. Pressed out the old yoke, put in the new one. There was a tiny bit of slop though after and no way to figure out how to shim it because I have no balancer. There was something about the surfaces too that didn't allow for a very precise location of the yoke caps.

I got one from a junkyard in there now. The ujoint bearings didn't feel great but I might look into that site. Thanks

Returned that bad shaft, then they sent me another one. Which was all scratched up, and surprise, vibrated terribly. 3 bad shafts in a row, the third one looked exactly like the the first one down to the scratches. I think they just sent me the first shaft again. Don't ever buy from Buyautoparts.com or their ebay store.

It was the main propeller shaft. I put in a used one I had bought a while back from a junkyard and the vibration disappeared. Originally I bought the new driveshaft because the junkyard one was rusted and pitted at the transmission end and wore out the seal. So that part outfit sent me 2 bad propeller shafts, the original one was bad and so was the replacement.

A lititle bit in the steering wheel when it gets bad at about 45 or so. I see the rear view mirror vibrating and I can feel vibration on the cabin interior

Swapped in a new axle to the left rear, still doing it. That rules out all the CV axles. Has to be the rear differential, front differential, auto transmission or propeller shaft. I did notice when I had the car on the lift for the last axle change that when I spun the tires, the main propeller shaft wobbles. Which is weird since this I put a new propeller shaft in, then returned it due to thinking it was bad, and the replacement didn't help either. Not sure what else it could be. Going to put in the original prop shaft and see it changes.

Put the axle that I took out of the left front and put it in the right front, still doing it. That just leaves the right rear axle, rear differential, front differential, or automatic transmission. Doesn't look like its the right rear cv axle based on the video. Nor does it look like the rear carrier is vibrating. I guess the next step is to try and mount that camera to each thing and see if it vibrates. If that doesn't seem to find it, I ordered a cheap arduino accelerometer module from china. I'll build this and see if I can pinpoint it http://stevesprojectpages.com/accelerometer-data-logger-with-ir-trigger/

lol

Here's a couple of videos of the axles. The right front one didn't come out very well, you can only see the axle barely. The second video of the right rear is better. Doesn't seem to be vibrating from the right rear axle. The differential doesn't look to be vibrating either. I'm going to try and get another video of the right front tomorrow. Sort of looks like its vibrating but hard to tell. https://youtu.be/U-2-xwKjzO0 https://youtu.be/GymuEYBT6Pw

Put another new axle in the left rear, still doing it.

Just drained it and no metal debris. Hopefully the rear differential is ok. Left rear axle coming at the end of the week. I'll post an update after I get that in

I could be wrong but I think mechanically the car is essentially FWD with a second shaft that puts power to the rear axles through a clutch pack for momentary AWD. The cluck pack is normally off and locks up when it detects wheel slip. That's the gist I got from looking at a model of the transmission innards The 5spd is a little different and functions more as a full time AWD, as the center differential is a viscous coupling that doesn't allow for too much RPM difference between front and rear shaft speed

Is this a good idea? I read somewhere that with load off (ie on a lift) the vehicle the suspensions moves past its limits and can damage the CV axles. I've done it in the past with other subarus though without harming anything so not sure if that's true or not.

Confirmed with the manufactuer that I did put in the correct rear axles (Surtrack SB8048 and SB8049). That being said, this weekend I removed the left rear, and it was really really stuck in the center differential. I couldn't get it pried out with just a 4ft crowbar, I had to use a metal wedge that I usually use for removing ball joints and jam it on one side (while avoiding the dust ring) and pry with the crowbar on the opposite side. Took almost everything I had to get it out. Other side is just a normal slip on fit. Not sure what happened but its looking like somethngs up with that left rear axle or maybe even the differential. That was where the clicking was coming from also.

Now that I'm looking for new axles, I almost wonder if I bought the wrong axles back when I changed them. I used the Suretrack sb8048 and sb8049. One place on ebay has it as for the 5spd. Another says its for both. Then Rock auto says its for the 5 spd. Overall length seems to be a difference of 1/16th of an inch between those two axles and one I found that says its for an auto. Can anyone confirm this are right or wrong? I have a 2000 legacy gt limited auto

If you put in the FWD fuse and nothing changes, it doesn't tell you much. I think its mostly to troubleshoot the AWD clutch pack.

I doubt its the struts. Bad struts will make it handle a little crapy and bounce after bumps, but not vibrate. By U joint I think they mean the main propeller driveshaft. Which is over $400 and difficult to replace without a lift. Used ones of that era are hard to come by that are in good condition, because the needle bearings in the joints are usually shot after all those years

I'm thinking of setting up a little camera under the body by the CV shaft to see if I can see it vibrating. I'm just sick of buying new parts, spending hours putting them in, and it not fixing the problem.

Got it all back together and its still doing it. Has to be some part that I put in that went bad soon after. Probably one of the rear CV shafts, right?

There is some noise. I got the drivers side apart and I think it might be the bearing. With the knuckle out of the car and on the bench I can feel the bearing better and there's a liittle scratchiness to it. Ordered an axle for the left side and both wheel bearings/seals so hopefully that fiixes it.

It did seem 4x the speed of the tires, which is why I originally put in a used one, still did it, a new one, still did it, and returned the new one for another new one and it still did it. So that rules out the main propeller shaft Took the tires to a tire shop and had them rebalance them. Still does it. I'm thinking it has to be a cv shaft. Maybe that one that hasnt' been replaced yet, or one of the 3 new ones I put in a little while ago. Wondering if I should put a new cv shaft in the front left (the only one I haven't replaced yet), and do the wheel bearing while I have the front suspension apart.