destey

A tiny bit in the steering wheel, but more vibration from the interior walls and the rear view mirror shakes visibly to the point where I can't see behind me. Took it for a test drive last nght. Problem is still there, so FWD fuse and moving tires around didn't affect it.

I just swapped the front and rear tires and put in the FWD fuse, now time to test drive it. If its stiill bad, I'll probably try this next as its the cheapest and easiest as you said. Then I guess its on to cv driveshafts. There is an audible clicking coming from the left rear (when i'm going really slow and drive over uneven ground), but I thought it was just the new caliper being cheap and loose tolerance. I wonder if that noise is the cv shaft instead

Seems like it definitely could be the cause. I made an error in my previous post. I found that I had only replaced one of the two front CV axles, the other is original. Thought I had done both but I see I must not have. The front is a GSP brand axle, and the two rear are Surtrack I wonder if that one original CV shaft is bad? It feels the same as the new one on the other side. Doesn't look visible bad or boots ripped.

No, though I only owned it a month before changing the axles out. Some shop said I needed a control arm bushing to pass inspection. Getting to that bushing I had to remove the rear knuckle and the axles were frozen into the wheel hub. The problem didn't surface until 6 months after the axle change IIRC.

I'll give the FWD fuse a try. The tires are all identical. I'm not aware that the trans or diff has been changed, but I know the motor was changed back 50,000 miles ago (before I owned it). Im guessing its the same transmission because the propeller shaft fit ok and its pretty specific to only a couple of years if I'm not mistaken.

I'd have to go look, but whatever was the cheapeast off ebay and amazon. I suppose it could be the CV shafts. How could I tell? Boots aren't broken and they look ok.

Only seems to vary with vehicle speed. I couldn't tell any difference doing those conditions you listed.

It does have that binding on sharp corners when parking. Though when I had it up on the lift and drove it while my father watched everything to see where the vibration was (only took it up to 20-25) , the clutch pack did seem to be able to engage and disenage the rear driveshaft. The harsh grab seemed kind of bad for the drivetrain which is why I didn't take it up to a higher speed. edit not sure if this is causing it, but I did notice the fluid level in the transmission is a bit overfilled.

Calipers and rotors are all new. I've had tires lose weights before and that seems more like a shake and shimmy. This feels like a strong low to mid frequency vibration. Can feel it a tiny bit in the steering wheel, barely noticable, but the rear view mirror vibrates enough that everything looks blurry. I looked the wheels over and they seem to have the weights from when it was balanced, I don't see any missing. Could it be the rear differential?

Got a 2000 Legacy GT limited sedan auto. It developed a vibration that first starts being felt at 30 then gets worse at 45 and pretty bad at 50. I thought it was the driveshaft, put in a new one and its still doing it. Replaced all 4 cv shafts and rear wheel bearings a little over a year ago. Could it be the front wheel bearings? Spinning the front wheels, they feel smooth and no slop when I have the car up on my lift. Not sure what else it could be. Put 4 new tires on last year, doesn't really feel like out of balance tires anyway. Any ideas?

I'm thinking that's probably it DaveT

Tires are the same. I haven't noticed any bucking or drag during tight turns, but I know what you mean (my 90 Legacy used to do that). I'll give the FWD fuse a try. Front looked ok, I changed shocks, ball joints, inner/outer tie rod and front axles and didn't see any issues with the brakes, bearings or hubs. Noise seems to be coming from the rear, though maybe I'm wrong. CNY_Dave, what would you say it indicates that the noise only seems to happen from 45 to 55? I was thinking driveshaft since the rear diff mount bushings were bad and it was moving up and down somewhat. I'm guessing the diff housing would go up when in reverse and bounce off the bottom when shifting going forward. Not sure what that would damage.

Got a 2000 Subaru Legacy GT Limited. Have a low frequency hum coming from the rear that starts at about 45mph and goes away at 55. I've replaced one rear tire (one is brand new, other is very good), both rear wheel bearings/hubs, both rear cv half shafts, and rear control arm bushings. It was clunking when shifting and going into gears (auto trans), and I saw the differential mount bushings were separated. So I put in half a split bushing in each. Still clunks in reverse but not in forward. But none of these repairs have made the low frequency hum noise in the rear change. Could it be the driveshaft u joint? I don't get that rattle that I hear on youtube videos. It has 277,000 miles. It was a North Carolina car and it looks new under the hood and undercarriage.

Thought it might be that groove, thanks! edit 1 Any ideas on how to separate it from the splines on the hub? I've got a rust free Virginia car, all the hardware came out easy as can be, but that shaft is frozen solid. Tried a puller with as much as I could turn it, even put the whole axle/knuckle in a press and gave it as much as I dared. I think the bearing was preventing it from seeing all the force. edit 2 I found I could unbolt the bearing flange and slide the whole axle through the knuckle. I thought maybe putting the hub surface right on the press would bypass the bearing stealing some of the force, but still couldn't press the hub off the axle. 60,000 lb press and I went as far as I felt was safe and it wouldn't break free... that hub sure is seized on there!

I have a 2000 Legacy GT Limited, needs rear axles. Are they the same left and right?

Clockspring maybe?

I put nitrous in mine, 75 wet shot. Really woke it up. Did a writeup a few years back

17 years old, yes but its a GT limited and its quite clean inside. Almost no rust anywhere else. Put some work into it recently, lots of new parts so hoping to get a good life out of it. Every subaru I've owned rusted out pretty bad in that area (owned 7 95-99 subarus), just hoping to avoid that for once

So I talked to my neighbor, who used to work at a body shop, and he said he could cut out that area and weld in a new piece. Maybe I should take him up on it? The passengers side I saw a little wetness from driving in the rain along the weld on the opposite side of the above pic. It must be rotted through. All the Subarus around here rot out in that area quite bad. This looks like the early stages before it gets to that. The outside rust on that rear quarterpanel seems to start from not only the inside of the weld but also it rubs on the bumper cover and that rubber strip they slide on the wheel well. I'm almost thinking the only way to keep it from getting worse is to have it cut out, what do you guys think?

Bought a nearly rust free Virginia car, hoping to keep it in good condition. Hasn't started poking on the outside on that side yet, but that will probably happen soon. The other side has about the same thing but is poking through. Any idea what I should do or have done? For reference, this is the area. Its the drivers side rear well. Here's the rust

Thanks for the replies. I suppose I should confirm my auto trans is on the way out. Just bought the car, it has 264k miles. When stopped and going into reverse, it sometimes has a loud clunk. I think this also happens sometimes when I go from reverse to drive again (if I have to adjust in a parking spot or something). I put the car up on the lift, and moving the two front tires, there seems to be more slop (movement before the other tire moves) than other subarus I've owned. She about toast?

What about a 2003 legacy outback?

I've got a 2000 Legacy GT that has a auto transmission on the way out and looking for a used one. Found a 2005 Forester XT part out on craigslist, would this work in my 2000 Legacy? The motor isn't original, its a 2.5 JDM if that matters.

My wires must have melted somewhere, its blowing a fuse every time I put it in. So my plan is to bypass the stock wiring and run wires from the headlight to the relay box. Which I did, but the headlights don't light. I have what I think is a FSM (bought it off ebay, its a pdf) but it doesn't have the wiring diagrams. I've tried searching google images, seems the colors differ by era. Also someone replaced the connectors going into the headlights with a different year and the colors don't match (they're soldered in). Does anyone know what post does what on the headlight connector? Also, is there one positive and the high and low are negative, or is it the other way around?

Did you remove the throttle position sensor to gain access to the IAC? That is very touchy as far as adjustment. If its not that, it could be a vacuum leak (mine did the same thing and it was the gasket). Spray some carb cleaner around that area and if its sucking air in, it'll suck in the carb cleaner and cause the engine to sputter giving away the leak location.