destey

The big one looks like the starter ground. The other one, I don't know. It looks familiar though, I remember that bracket. I'll check under the hood of my car when I get home tonight.

It was a vacuum leak. Read that other thread, then searched the board on how to find vacuum leaks, came across the carb spray test. Sprayed around the engine, it sputtered when I sprayed near the idle air control valve. Specifically around the gasket. Took it off. Tossed the gasket. Used gasket maker sealant, put it back together, it ran good. Sprayed it with carb cleaner just to make sure, and didn't change the speed of the engine so no more leak.

Watching my obd2 scanner, not sure number of miles, but highway speeds make the CAT and O2 test go from INC to OK. Doesn't do it just driving around the city for a couple of minutes. Most of the other tests are quick. The longest one I think is the EVAP, and here's the conditions for the system to mark it complete:

So the filler neck is making it idle weird? edit: Reading the other thread about idling, I'm thinking I have two unrelated issues going on. I'm thinking I have a vacuum leak somewhere up front in addition to the bad filler neck.

Have a 1998 Forester, getting a p0440 code. I can see the hose going up to the filler neck has broken. I'm pretty sure this is the cause of my evap code ( judging by this post http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/127479-evap-leak-replace-charcoal-canister/?do=findComment&comment=1080854 ). But the hose is blocked off by the rusty metal pipe, doesn't seem like air is getting past it. When my car is idling, even after warmed up and also when in neutral while driving, the o2 sensor voltage reads 0 on my obd2 scanner. It also idles oddly. When driving along, the o2 values flip flop up and down as usual, but when I let my foot off the gas, it floors to 0v until I give it gas again then it returns to normal oscillation. I'm assuming there's also probably a leak in the evap? The broken hose doesn't seem to be leaking, just plugged. What do I do to fix the hose? Drill a hole into the filler neck and install a nipple and run new hose up to it?

I'm not sure of anywhere to hit on the control arm, and generate sufficient force. I think I was getting quite a bit of up pressure with the pickel fork, it was jammed under the ball joint pinch area. I had the car up on the lift and was able to get a huge swing with the sledge on the pickel fork. Enough so now the car drives terrible today, I must have sloppened up the ball joint. I'm remembering to about 10 years ago when I last did this procedure on a '95 Legacy. After I drilled out the pinch bolt, I think I cut the slot deeper with a cuttoff wheel, and chiseled it open, actually cracking the spindle slightly. But the crack didn't go very far and monitoring it it never went further. But thinking back, was this a good idea? I did the trick but it seems kind of scary now

Looking at it a week ago I knew it would be a nightmare and I hose it down with pbblaster then, then 2 times later on in the week. Also tried this other stuff that goes down to -45, makes its own cracks and gets in itself in there. "Loctite 996456 Fast Acting Corrosion Freeze and Release"

Good idea, I was coming in from the side. I can see how coming in from the bottom would help more, closer to the beginning of the crack where it'll spread it more. Maybe I can heat the bottom stud and get it free of the control arm, then hit a chisel from the bottom as you suggest. Kind of thinking this as well. Doesn't seem like there's much better options. I'll try as Tom suggested first though. But even a spindle replacement doesn't look easy. The tie rod looks rusted out- at the threaded part and where it connects to the spindle. Thanks for the suggestions everyone, I appreciate the help!!

Tried the chisel in the crack, didn't work.

Right now the only thing off is the pinch bolt (drilled out), and the bottom castle nut. I don't care if the bottom comes out, as I have a new control arm to go in. I just need the ball joint out of the socket. But its stuck from both ends. I don't see that snap on puller, or DIY pullers working, as I think the threaded shaft will separate from the base before it pulls from the spindle. I litterally hit the pickel fork with everything I had with a 20lb sledgehammer and it didn't come apart, but it did sloppen the ball joint where its pretty loose now.

Have a 1998 Forester, trying to get the drivers side ball joint out. Its frozen in from the top and bottom. Had to drill the pinch bolt, as the head snapped off. Using a pickel fork and a sledge hammer, giving it everything I had, couldn't get it loose. I did however sloppen up the ball joint to the point where it handles horrible (worse than before). I had a problem with a similar car, 95 legacy, had to drill that pinch bolt too, and drive a chisel into the crack, but that did not work on this one. I did a search, found people have trouble with this. People suggested heat and the snap-on puller. Snap on puller might work but its frozen in from both sides (top and bottom, can't get the control arm free on the bottom either). Regarding heat, I have an oxy-acetylene torch but the amount of heat it would take to free the ball joint, would probably ruin the wheel bearing. I've tried pb blaster (hosed it down 3 times in the week leading up to the job). I tried this bottle of stuff that's supposed to be -45 and freeze its way into cracks and free it up like the pb blaster, that didn't work either. I'm trying to get the control arm out as that has rusted out and looks dangers to drive. I have a feeling like this ball joint is rusted solid with the spindle. Anyone have any suggestions? I thought of getting a new spindle at a junk yard, but with Vermont winters, I don't think the ones in junkyard will be very easy to get out. Any ideas on how to get that ball joint out?

I went to autozone, they gave me Duralast 676 shoes, but they're way way too big. I looked up on another site and it says the 676 are the shoes for it. The shoes they gave me are about 8" and the ones that came off my car are about 6.5". Anyone know what the correct ebrake shoes are for this 1997 subaru legacy GT? thanks

Thanks! That sounds like about as easy of fix as there can be

Not overfilled with oil, I checked the dipstick after sitting on flat ground overnight. Head gasket was done about 50k miles ago, so I don't think its that. Any ideas?

1997 Subaru Legacy GT 2.5. I'm seeing oil residue at the bottom of my motor, trace it back to the hose that goes up to the IAC valve. Any idea why there would be oil here? Did I overfill it when I changed the oil? Thanks!

I found the one I needed off ebay. I was hoping to go with a cheaper one, the fronts and left rear were about $10 less, and I noticed there's a bunch of the right rear's sold so maybe that's the one that always goes first. I've owned 4 95-99's and 3 of them had that right rear go, so maybe it was made poorly from the factory.

I checked and it doesn't seem to be a kyb part, but the kyb website was helpful. It appears as though the 95-99 impreza uses the same struts as the 90-94, but not the same as the 95-99. So it doesn't look like this part will work.

I have a 1997 Legacy GT with 2.5 4wd (5spd) and I was wondering if this strut would work? I need the left rear. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shock-Absorber-and-Strut-Assembly-Rear-Right-Hand-New-Black-RH-Passenger-Side-/290627670178?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru|Model%3ALegacy&vxp=mtr&hash=item43aac250a2 Am I correct in assuming any left rear strut for the 96-99 will work on mine? I know the outback has a longer shaft, but all the others are the same right (including impreza?)? thanks!

Still having the problem. Finally got codes read (drove a long ways to an autozone). Cylinder missfires in 1, 2, 3, 4 o2 sensor upstream o2 sensor downstream EGR Is what the guy wrote down. I'm thinking the downstream and missfires are caused by the upstream and the EGR. But I've put in 2 new OEM o2 sensors. So it must be the wiring to the computer, right? Or the computer itself? Does anyone know what wires going into the computer are the O2 sensors? I was going to run my own wiring and bypass all the OEM subuaru wiring. I'll pick up a EGR solenoid at a junkyard and throw it in there. Or would pulling the electrical connector factor that out of the equation? thanks in advance!!

Anyone think this could be my EGR valve? I've noticed the valve never moves when I rev the engine by rotating the throttle body. I can slide the egr valve up and down without sticking but it doesn't seem to move by itself I see there's a solenoid of some sort connected that looks pretty rusted, could this be bad? Is there a way I can check this system or disable it? thanks!

Bump. Anyone have any ideas? Some days are better than other, today was really bad. It would cut out at anything less than 1/3rd throttle. It acts just like the key is turned off, as I turned the key off while driving down the road and its the same symptom. It also was idling at 2500rpms when I put it in neutral. Funny thing is when I come to a stop, the idle comes down to normal.

everything oem.

1997 Subaru legacy GT with 2.5. Motor has 210,000 miles and was rebuilt a few years ago for the headgasket. I bought the car last december with the issue present and got a deal because it ran the way it does. So I've never had the car when it was running good. This is continued from a thread a few months ago. This problem rarely triggers a CEL. The cutout happens maybe 30-40 times on my 45minute drive to work, and the CEL comes on once a week (and never during the cutout, always when the car is running fine, a minute or two later). The missfire has read "missfire" and "cat efficiency below threshold" both don't tell me very much because they're just symptoms not the cause The cutout only happens at low throttle, like 0-30%. If I push the accelerator down, the engine pops back to life. The car idles fine, but shifting is hard because when I go to release the clutch and push the gas, it does the cutout almost every time. The car has plenty of power and runs fine when the issue is not happening. The cutout feels like the key is turned off, a complete loss of power. When it comes back on, there's a thud (from the drivetrain I think). I've done the following upstream and downstream o2 sensors MAF sensor TPS sensor IAC valve fuel filter spark plugs spark plug wires coil igniter I've also put new terminals (cut the wire, sanded off corrosion, soldered on new terminals) at all the ground locations I could find - left and right strut towers, by the battery, near the IAC valve on the manifold. I cleaned off the positive and negative terminals on the battery and the cables. Nothing has made any difference in the slightest. I'm still on my theory that there's a bad ground somewhere. Does anyone know any other locations for grounds?

Its a brand new OEM sensor Still having the problem, just swapped out the IAC, fuel pump, fuel pump relay (that stopped the clicking).... and it still does it. To summarize I've done: plugs plug wires coil o2 sensors MAF sensor IAC valve TPS knock sensor fuel pump fuel pump relay egr feels smooth 3 tanks of fresh gas through with drygas and chevron techron swapped in set of identical injectors from junk yard new fuel filter I had the codes read and it said p0420 cat system efficiency below threshold. It feels like it has no power under 3000rpms. Slight hills on the interstate I have to shift down to 4th and go at like 4000rpms to keep speed up. Then between 1500rpms and 3000 if you have light load it cuts out like the ignition switch was turned off. If you push the pedal down further it comes back on with a slam (all at once). If you let off the pedal then try again it runs (until it cuts out again 2 seconds later). Anyone have any ideas? I've tried just about everything I can think of except for a new ECU. Doesn't seem like a ECU to me though. Forgot to mention I'm getting terrible gas mileage. Not sure exactly, but it has to be 10-20mpg

I remember seeing them disconnected. I replaced the relay that was making the clicking, it still makes the clicking. I also swapped out all the relays I could find with my parts car, if the relays were the same (9/10 were) It feels like its running on 3 cylinders but I could be wrong. I unplugged the injectors one at a time, the drivers side rear cylinder didn't seem to make it run any worse when I unplugged it. But its running so rough its hard to tell. I was going to swap injector rails over from the 1995 legacy parts car but I looked up the injectors and the part numbers are different. Looks like 95-96 is different from 97-99. If I swapped them over as a set of 4 would that make it ok?