destey

the clicking is coming from the relay or whatever that green plug goes into under the dash. What does it do? I circled the part making the clicking.

fuel pressure regulator would cause these syptoms but the CEL flashing makes me think its electrical of some sort. Maybe its the alternator? I recently brought the battery in because of the cold and charged it, so maybe a bad alternator has been hidden by that. I noticed the headlights dim noticeably as the CEL flashes. Could it be wire rub through, crack or melting?

Its a 1997 Legacy GT with 2.5. I had the codes read and it said p0420 cat system efficiency below threshold. I made a video of what its currently doing. This wasn't the best morning to take the video as it got down to -20F. When its not as cold it starts and I can get it to rev by pumping the throttle. The CEL stops clicking and stays solid at the same time it smooths out at about 2500rpm. http://s1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee421/qqqqqwwww/?action=view&current=SDC11236.mp4

I had been driving the car but I started it yesterday and it was all of the sudden undriveable. It runs extremely rough and the accelerator peddle is barely responsive. It sputters sometimes I can get it to rev where after about 2500rpms it cleans up and I can rev it up to redline. The check engine light flashes on and off with the engine RPM, the faster the engine spins the faster the flashes. There's an audible click like a solenoid every time the CEL flashes. Once I get over 2500rpm the clicking stops and the CEL stays constant at the same time it smooths out. I don't know about power because as I take it down my driveway all it does is buck and quit unless I really rev it up. I've unpluged the MAF, no change, car doesn't run rougher, doesn't run smoother. Same with the TPS, IAC, knock etc. Its as if the ECU is ignoring every imput and running in some limp mode. Whenever I've unplugged the MAF on this car before now or any other subaru it runs noticeable rougher or dies immediately. Since then I've tried the following another new set of plug wires different coil MAF TPS checked all fuses. Its got a strong battery in it, plugs I just changed. I'm at a loss, anyone have any ideas?

I swapped MAF with another vehicle, runs the same. I'll give the injector cleaner a try. I'll try and get the code read. I'm at a different place than I normally am for work this week and the autozone that reads codes isn't nearby, so it might be until next week. Someone at work also said that the TPS has to be set by a multimeter and maybe the guy before me messed it up and when I swapped one in I didn't install it properly.

I got mine a couple of years ago off ebay for $220 / 4 gr-2's. I ended up putting the stock ones back in up front because the gr2s became too stiff in the winter. Though nowadays I avoid ebay. Sent the wrong part way too many times

The missfire code was just what the previous owner said, bought the car a few weeks ago with a discount because it didn't run right. I'll go have the codes read. If it is an injector it might tell me which one. Is there any way to clean up the injector if its clogged?

fuel filter is about 2 years old I think. Would a bad fuel pump be worse at higher rpm? Mine seems bad at low throttle. I'm going to revisit the IAC, maybe its binding after I put the motor housing back on. Could it be a crank angle sensor or cam sensor, partially clogged injectors, bad ECU or maybe failed fuel pressure regulator?

Its a 5mt with an EGR. The EGR feels like it operates ok when I move it by hand, no binding or anything. Put in some new plugs and dry gas but it didn't help, I don't see any vacuum leaks though maybe I'm not seeing it. This one has me stumped

1997 Legacy GT w/2.5. Here it is: Car drives ok at full throttle and 2/3, but if you go under that, its like someone turns the key off. It loses complete power. If you let off the throttle all the way and then come back on, the engine runs fine. If you push it further down, at some point the motor come back on like a light switch with a slam as all the power comes right back. It is the worst when I'm driving along at low load on level ground. All it does is die and surge back to life constantly. I've done the following: plug wires TPS o2 sensors MAF sensor knock sensor IAC rotates freely I don't know what else it could be. It has check engine light was read as misfire.

From http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-problems-explained/ The first group is the 1st generation 2.5l engine found predominantly in the 1996 to 1999 Outback, Legacy G.T., Forrester (up to mid year 1998) and Subaru Impreza R.S. This group usually, will develop an internal head gasket leak ultimately resulting with an overheating engine. The second group is the 2nd generation Subaru 2.2l and 2.5l engines found in the Forrester from mid year 1998, Impreza from mid year 1998, the Outback and Legacy from 2000. Here is some of the technical information related to the gaskets used. In 1996 on the 2.5l engine Subaru used a composite type head gasket similar in construction to the head gaskets found in the Subaru Legacy & Impreza 2.2l engine. Starting in 1997 and used through 1999 Subaru began to use a multi layer steel shim head gasket with a graphite type outer film. And this is where the problem has started. What we typically see with these gaskets is that the film between the combustion chamber and the cooling jacket or passageway is compromised allowing coolant into the combustion chamber and exhaust pressure and temperature into the cooling system. Subaru has come up with an updated head gasket design that seems to be holding up well. In mid year 1998 Subaru redesigned the 2.2l and 2.5l, most of the changes were in the cylinder heads and camshaft configurations. This design has had mostly problems with external head gasket leaks.

thx guys

I have a 1997 Subaru legacy GT with the 2.5. I bought a set of plug wires off ebay and they aren't like the ones on the car. The plastic shaft is 2-3" too long and 2 of the wires are only about a foot long. I was told there are 3 variations of plug wires on these 97's. Is this one of them? Here's a pic of the wires

Just bought a 1997 Legacy GT with the 2.5, it has a hesitation. If you're driving along on a flat road and low load on the motor motor cuts out like a kill switch was hit. If I push down on the accelerator a little, nothing happens. If I push down further, with a jerk the motor comes back and everything runs right. I have a set of plug wires and upstream/downstream due to arrive this week. I see someone connected the two knock sensor wires together, the sensor is also still in place. Could this be the problem? Or maybe the problem causes the engine to jerk and throw a knock code and this is how he alleviated it? TIA!

It started doing the bucking again on the way to work. Not nearly as bad as before, but still there. A guy at work said oil could be coming through the pcv valve (blowby or bad pcv valve?). Which is possible because the cylinder with the oily plug is the one rear one on the passenger side, right next to the pcv valve. I don't think its o2. I drove it immediately upon starting it and it had the symptoms (after sitting cool all night). The donor parts should be good as they came out of a good running car. I haven't done a leak down test. I'll look into seeing how much a kit is. Air filter looks clean. Not sure about the throttle body or injectors. Is it easy to remove the injectors and check them? I've never done anything with injectors. Thanks everyone for the replies

No smell of gas.

I swapped plugs with my other car and the car runs fine now. One of the plugs had oil on it, not dried or burned oil, but wet fresh oil. I did a compression test on that cylinder and first instant it jumped to 150psi then to 180. Which is odd since I tested it about a year ago and all the cylinders were around 120. Any ideas what happened?

1995 legacy 5spd. I just put in a new radiator as the old one was dripping faster and faster. The car's been in the garage since last friday and now when i drove it today it's developed a sputter. On the way to work, it would buck and sputter after releasing the clutch. As I after that it ran fine until the next stop sign. Then on the way home it was sputtering and bucking also when I'd give it extra gas. Then by the time I got home it just about couldn't drive steady. I put it in the garage, and operated the throttle from the throttle body. It runs smooth as silk without load, but when I crack the throttle somewhat quick it sputters like it did on the road. I have another 95 legacy 5spd so I did some swapping. I swapped in: coil pack plug wires MAF sensor Checked the IAC valve. Fuel filter was changed a year ago plugs are a year old o2 sensors are a year old. It also does this problem immediately after starting, when I'd assume its in open loop mode which would rule this out. any ideas? When the engine cools later on I'm going to take the plugs out and see what they look like. I'm thinking it could be clogged injectors, or fuel pump

I was just about to order the CSF2619, it looks like the frame mounts are the same as my radiator, the fan mounts look the same, everything looks good except the CSF2619 has transmission cooler fittings (my car is a 5spd). Will this radiator work, if I just plug the cooler fittings? here's the radiator http://www.drivewire.com/search/?D=radiator&Ntt=radiator&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntk=Main&PN=4294955991&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&N=0&Nty=1&VN=4294967261+4294964890+4294964576+4294965878+4294967142&Nr=AND%28universal:0%29&refValue=brand&events=Brand-CSF

Agreed. I ordered parking brake cables for my 2003 Silverado and they were the wrong ones. Demoralizing when you get halfway through a job and the part isn't correct

I'm sorry guys, i was retarded and upon looking at the radiator again the one on the website is correct. For some reason I thought the pins were in different spots. The one I pulled at the junkyard wasn't the right one, but it was the only one they had. So over the weekend I examined the bad radiator and found it was leaking around the gasket where the plastic end is pressed on. I pried up on all the aluminum tabs , cleaned off the gasket, put in some high temp silicone sealant and used vice grips (a regular one and a large clamp one) to crimp the tabs back on. It still leaked after i put it back together. doh. I see these guys have a radiator for $73 shipped. Anyone order from them before? Seems pretty reasonable, no sense in trying to find another junkyard if they're getting $50-60 used when a new one is $73 shipped http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQSubaruQQLegacyQQCSFQQRadiatorQQ19951999QQCSF2619.html?apwcid=P1135867996W43b3f85c7ab9e&apwidD1AMtOc

1995 Legacy, manual trans. My radiator is dripping coolant on the passenger side. I've noticed a wet spot under the car for a little while now but its getting bad so it needs fixing. Around the rubber hose is all dry, but about half way down it is wet. So I pulled the old radiator and tried to put in one that I got at a junkyard (from a 1996 auto) and it doesn't fit. The bottom mounting studs are in a different spot and the fan hole locations are different. So I went on rockauto and checked for my radiator, $97 shipped, but the one they have in the picture is just like the one that doesn't fit (even though it says in the description "w/manual trans"). I also checked a few other sites like this one: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQSubaruQQLegacyQQCSFQQRadiatorQQ19951999QQCSF2619.html?apwcid=P1135867996W43b3f85c7ab9e&apwidD1AMtOc and they show the same radiator that doesn't fit in my car, but is supposed to according to their site (says 1995-1995: All Submodels; All Engines;). Anyone know what radiator is supposed to go in my 95? TIA!

I'm not really understanding... why would turning that bolt in and removing the freeplay between the rack and the pinion gear cause problems? The worst that would happen would be i adjust it to far in and the steering has resistance. I pried up with a prybar on the balljoints when the car was on my lift. no slop. I know slop in the rack was an issue on my other 95, as I had the rack in the vice and I could turn the input shaft back and forth slightly and the rack did not move. I took a large crescent wrench (that won't fit up in the vehicle where the rack is) and backed off the jamnut, then adjusted the lash bolt inwards. I adjusted it in until i felt a slight resistance. After that adjustment the slop was gone. I could have saved myself a trip to the junkyard and $50 by just adjusting the lash instead of buying a "new" rack like I did. I'm surprised no one else has looked into this. Its been an issue on every 1995 model I've owned (I have 3). Like I said in my OP, this one issue made the most difference out of all the things I did.

Its definitely that adjustment nut. I had the same issue with my other 95, slop in the steering. Replaced the rack completely with one that had 30k miles on it. With the old rack clamped in my vice, you could move the input shaft some amount and the rack itself wouldn't move. Adjusting the lash nut fixed it. I'm seeing the same issue with this 1995 Subaru. Anyone know the size of that large nut? I need to order a wrench to adjust it.

Manufacturing differences will make "counting threads" a rough way to get it approximate but if you want it spot on and to handle better than before you'll want an alignment. I shouldn't be one to talk, I'm so cheap when I replaced my rack I set the two units next to each other and made them "the same". But its a beater and I don't mind it pulling to the right and eating up beater tires. I've got a pile of free beater tires but an alignment is $72 and an hour of my time at monro's (whom I like) When a thread machine makes threads they're not always the same. The threads may start in a slightly different spot rotation wise, the threaded portion may be in a slightly different spot relative to the datum from piece to piece... That's why alignments are done versus the ballpart method described above. If you go to a factory they don't count threads or rotations, its just not that accurate. My other car was just aligned and they got it to 0.020" toe in. This slight toe in is intentional as the car will tend to toe out as the geometry changes with the control arm moving up and down. This is all out the window if you don't have good bushings everywhere. The stock control arm bushings aren't very good, all the way around. Also the steering rack bushings are soft and the rack slides back and forth slightly on them. Also might want to check the ball joints while you're at it. Anything that's sloppy will render all the work your doing to be pointless.