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destey

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Everything posted by destey

  1. Depends. If its rusted it may need to be heated with an acetylene torch. The end that connects to the inner tierod may be frozen, as well as the jamnut on it. If you don't have a torch which it doesn't sound like, you could hit it a week ahead of time with some pb blaster. The end that sticks up through the knuckle may be frozen as well. I use a pickel fork and beat it out. You might be able to find some combo of straight punches and pieces of metal jammed in there to cause it to break loose. After you replace one end or both ends it will need an alignment. So you'll have to take it to someone anyways. Something to consider, maybe just have them do it all.
  2. 1995 subaru legacy with slop in the steering. I've done the lash adjustment on another 95 subaru, but the rack was out of the vehicle. I used a crescent wrench. This time I'd rather leave the rack in the vehicle, anyone know what size wrench goes on the outer nut? Its gotta be like 30mm. There's not much room, is it possible to adjust the lash with it in the vehicle? I haven't checked the inner/outer tie rods yet on this vehicle, but when I replaced my other car's rack for sloppiness the lash was quite a bit out of adjustment, but the rack itself was fine. Out of everything (control arm bushings, rack bushings, new struts, inner/outer tie rods, ball joints), the rack lash adjustment tightened up the steering the most on my other 95, so I was hoping this would do the trick here.
  3. I get anywhere from 28-31mpg on my 95 Legacy 5spd awd. In the last month it dropped to under 20. We'll see if the o2 sensor I bought fixes it. I noticed a drop in performance as well. I do 20% city, 80% 40-55mph country driving. Besides the recent drop, the only thing I noticed that drops my mpg is warming the car up for 5-10 minutes (0 miles / 0.25 gal = 0mpg)
  4. swapped in a the coil and it worked good as new! thx for advice guys. I also changed the oil, mixed with gas
  5. just measured compression at 155 in the cylinder that's dead. I'll move a coil pack from another 95 I have and see if it works
  6. I pulled the leads off the coil one at a time while it was running. The cylinder in question didn't arc like the other 3. I tried a plug wire from another '95 subaru I have and that didn't help. I'm guessing its not getting spark because the plug is gas soaked from not firing? I pulled the plug out and it looks like it hasn't fired at all, looks brand new other than gas all over it. So could a bad exhaust valve cause it not to fire, then in turn cause the plug to get wet from gas and not fire?
  7. Just bought a 95 legacy sedan 5spd for cheap. everything works good on it except it runs on 3 cylinders. He says it started about 5 months ago and hasn't driven it much since. Its coming from the passenger side closest to the firewall. I took the plugs out and that one is all wet and looks like it doesn't fire at all. Judging from the gas appearing on the exhaust pipe the injector is at least firing, not sure if its clogged, or what. He said he replaced all the plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, air filter. It basically runs on 3 cylinders as it shakes and sputters like its down one. I should probably go buy a compression gauge. What are the different possibilities of what it could be?
  8. not sure if I did it how the mfgs suggest, but heres what I did. I poured it in then shut the motor off for about 5 minutes to let it work its magic. Then I drove it hard. looked like i was an NHRA top fuel during a burnout. filled the entire neighborhood. Few times I tried it smoke didn't come out as good if I didn't give'r hell
  9. doh, should've put that in the OP 1995 subaru legacy edit: also checked fuse box by left drivers foot and under hood and everything looks good
  10. I did a search and came up with mostly results from 80s subarus. The fan doesn't work in any of the 4 positions. When I turn the fan from off to 1/2/3/4 I can hear an audible click (I assume the blower relay) coming from under the dash somewhere. I read from the loyal posts the resistor can fail, but when it does position 4 still works (which it does not in my case). about 1 in 30 trips the fan starts working completely normally. I'm guessing my blower motor has seized up. What do you guys think? I'm guessing the way to diagnose this is find the electrical leads running into the blower motor and probe for voltage. I stuck my head under there and can't see where the wires go. Anyone know where they are? tia, Derek
  11. Japan went through some very hard times in the early to mid 90s (not that they're out of it now). Subaru did extensive cost savings during the early 90s and it was implemented into the gen2 95+ subarus. Door handles plastic not metal Seats Map lights Trans position indicator Electric auto seat belts A few examples. If you compare each part you'll see many have cost savings engineered in.
  12. I completely agree with you, but I wonder if someone can answer this oddity I've noticed. When I have the car up on the lift and spin any tire, the diagonal tire is always the one to spin, not the one on the other side of the car. I'm not sure if this is congruent with what you've said or opposite. I've got the 5mt on my '95 legacy.
  13. Hopefully the burst disk would go before something really bad happened. I've just been bringing my bottle in lately and putting it in front of a ceramic heater I have for my bathroom. I get it 95F or so and by the time the car is warm enough driving down the road, she probably drops to the 85F I looking for. Bottle heaters, would they draw a lot of current from the battery? Or would you only use it when the car is running? The EJ22's still holding together with the 70 shot. Love the power it adds. Anyone know what the weakest component that'd probably break first is?
  14. Oh man, I just paid $130 for an autozone "Worldwide" that's making noise out of the box. That's a helluva good deal nipper
  15. That sounds like a really good idea, especially with the temperatures we have here in the north. Any ideas about how to keep the bottle at that temp?
  16. So far so good! I had the 70shot jet in there for a while but I don't think I was quite getting the 70 hp with the bottle being 35 deg F. Probably 40-60hp gain. Feels like a lot though!! Its still pretty early but at this point I'd definitely recommend this project to anyone with a soob, $400, and a desire for more hp. The car is way faster than it should be
  17. Not sure if its been said yet, but a leak in the pipes upstream of the sensors can change the readings. Are the formulas on how the ecu figures fuel trim known outside of subaru engineering?
  18. thanks skip. Yeah it all was pretty simple. Changing jets is as easy and takes just loosening a fitting manual: http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R10431.pdf
  19. Thanks porc, the one I got was 07005. I got mine through atlantic speed for $360 shipped. I see one on there now that looks like its the 07005 kit for a few bucks cheaper http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-NOS-Sniper-4-6-cyl-WET-Nitrous-Kit-35-75HP_W0QQitemZ320205544810QQihZ011QQcategoryZ33740QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
  20. here's that bolt Just put in the 36 jet. 70hp it quotes at the bottle pressure being 950psi/85deg F, but the bottle was much cooler than that at 35F.
  21. thx for the bump. the kit and everything are running great. Atlantic Speed has been great to deal with and were quite helpful. The routing of the hose will probably change slightly. Right now its routed on the right side above the drive axle, which seems to be ok for now but it gets sprayed with a lot of sand and salt. I might be able to go over the tank if I can get the strap bolts loose to drop it down a bit. It just misses being able to fit through right now by a hair. Wiring up front is "functional" ... you'll notice the 7/16 bolt up on the intake where I drilled the first time. Here's the setup: NOS 07005NB Sniper wet shot kit 10lb bottle 30 jet (50shot? maybe down to 35-40 as bottle is cold here in vt) stock ej22 engine (1995 5spd legacy sedan) Spare tire is removed to help with gas mileage but subwoofer remains So its probably on par with factory specd weight In first gear its hard to notice because as soon as the solenoids kick in its already time to shift. Second gear it starts to be felt and by 3rd and 4th it pulls pretty good (for what it is). The car seems to accelerate more as the speed increases. more pics to come when it all gets tidied up Derek
  22. I'll snap a few tonight, it'll give me the motivation to tidy up the wiring
  23. Wet is how I went. I heard a lot of good things about spraying the fuel in. Especially since the spray is going into an engine not designed for performance. Anyone know the upper limit of what these EJ's can handle? Not to jinx myself, but what would be the weakest component that'd break first? Connecting rod, head gasket, piston rings?
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