destey

There's only one way to find out! If its not your primary vehicle, I'd do it. You can get a NOS sniper kit for about $360 off ebay. This will give you from 30-70 hp. I'd think those motors wouldn't have much trouble handling the 30hp shot. They're pretty easy to install. Running the hose from the trunk to the hood was the most time consuming part. I'd recommend positioning everything before drilling anything. I made the mistake of drilling my intake before I set everything up and the nozzle stuck up and hit the hood. So now I have a 7/16 bolt right next to the nozzle I'm running the 35hp jet and the power increase is definitely noticeable. When I feel a little more brave I'm going to stick in the 50hp jet. I think I'll hold off on the 70 hp jet until I get a backup vehicle (guy wants to sell me his 80s 300zx for $1400) I say spray it, beastidrive

Thanks that's just what I was looking for. The look on people's faces when I tell them what I've done alone is worth it check out the thread in race/rally for updates!

Thank you, this info is very helpful!!

I installed a NOS sniper kit into my '95 Legacy. Its currently spraying just a 30 shot. I like the results so far. We'll see what I can break at 50 and 70 shots. Anyone else out there put a bottle in their Soob? I guess more importantly, anyone crazy enough to put one in a non-wrx?

Anyone know what the fuel line pressure is supposed to be on my 1995 Legacy? Is it constant or dynamic? thx!

I was wondering if any of you fine gentlemen knew what the thread size was for the tie rod. I bought some inner tie rods and they came without jam nuts. Thanks!

I heated the knuckle up pretty good last night but couldn't get the bolt to turn. Now I have one bad bolt head and one melted balljoint boot :-\ I drilled the other side last year, maybe I'll have to do the same to this side.

thanks!!!

Those are a great choice. If you want to save some money, Nordman (sp?) bought the original Hak 1 tread pattern from Nokia and sells for a little less $$ than originally. I paid $63 a tire for my Nordmans, mounted and balanced. I'd call around for prices. Sometimes there'll be $25/tire difference from the cheapest guy to the worst.

That's a great point. The cabin heat warms the body of the car. When the vehicle is turned off, the drop in temperature will cause moisture to condense on it. I have a (wacky) technique of driving with the windows down for the last minute of my drive to cool down the inside of the car. I've found this to help with window frosting as well. A wiser soul would just leave the doors open for a minute after he gets out. But that doesn't get quizzicle looks (edited for sentence flow)

I was dumb and used a 12point socket for the balljoint pinch bolt and now its rounded off. In the case I can get it off with a 6point and some heat, what bolt is used there? Lemme guess... 10mm x 1.5 pitch x 40? Can I get away with grade 8.8, or should I seek out a 10.9? Thx!

Cool, thank you!

Anyone know the size of the bolts that hold the lower part of the strut to the steering knuckle (one of them is concentric). Also, anyone know the size of the 3 nuts at the top of the strut tower? Thanks!!

Could be due to imperfect gearing. Or another factor I can't think of. I've achieved as much as 31.5 mpg on my '95 legacy (2.2L), 5spd. Usually I get 29-30. My parents have the same car in a automatic, and that gets 25-28 mpg.

Does the stock pipe actually restrict? These aren't exactly high horsepower motors.

When its 70F outside, I love the things. They make my car handle sooo well. And the stiffness is perfect at that temperature. They just seem to get progressively stiffer as temp goes down, with unbearable being below about 50F. Thx for the tips on sources porcupine, gotta love information dissemination (hope i used that word right). That bowing tells me that springs really push the capabilities of a spring compressor, so a good one is vital. I'm gonna take Ron and porcupines advice and spend a few $$ for safety's sake. Anyone have any idea why the struts are getting so stiff for me because of temperature? I didn't think that gasses would behave so differently at different temps. Is oil present in gas shocks? Oil definitely changes behaviors incredibly with temp

I borrowed the Lisle from Autozone and had trouble with the hooks fitting in the tight space. I ended up having one set of hooks compressing rugs right next to each other. The spring wanted to curl that direction. Is there enough material there on the ebay ones to handle the load? I was gonna say "they wouldn't sell them if there wasn't" but with the ************ that gets peddled these days....

They're on a 1995 Legacy sedan. No binding going on. Just really intense g-forces. We have an accelerometer where I work, but i doubt they'd let me borrow it (costs $1500). The distance of the vibrations is probably .250", quite a throw. No clue on the velocity, but it feels up there. Anyone have any data outlining the safe limits of gforces on the human body, especially over durations (like my 30 minute commute)?

Anytime the temperature goes below 50F, my GR-2's get so stiff it gives me a headache. Walking around on those days I can feel my brain sloshing around inside my head, like I got a concussion or something. Anyone think these spring compressors might not work? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-PAIR-OF-COIL-SPRING-COMPRESSORS-Heavy-Duty_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43996QQihZ020QQitemZ300158617934QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW I'm going back to the worn out struts. I'd rather have a car handle like crap than make me sick all day. Anyone else experience this?

It was the upstream oxygen sensor. I had it up on the lift and noticed black soot around the cap to the sensor where the wires enter it. I wiggled them a little and they made a crackling sound. So I swapped the front and rear o2's (not hooking up the downstream one of course) and the thing runs better than it ever has. Somehow no o2 codes were ever thrown (poorly written data validation functions)

Throttle plate looks clean. I changed the fuel filter, and swapped coils with another car, and still the same problem. Also something interesting: the problem happens under no load, but to a lesser degree. If I press on the throttle and hold it steady, the rpms will slowy decrease, maybe as much as 500 rpms. Then, like someone flipped a light switch, the problem goes away. 3-4 seconds later, the cycle starts again. I pulled the vacuum hose of the fuel regulator, and it did the same thing. Any ideas? Thx in advance..

Thank you for your replies. 2.2 obdII, but some version that's not entirely odbII compatable (not fully iso9141). I can't read it with my multiplex engineering reader. In 1995 the automatics work with all obdII, but the 5mt's don't work with my reader (others ??). Knock sensor I replaced a few years ago. I'll try swapping back in the old one and see if it helps. This problem happened a few years ago, but then went away, and now its back. I checked the tps sensor. It read voltages from 5 to near 0, going at a linear rate down by opening the throttle body. I might try a bit of seafoam in the pcv port.

I did a search for my problem, but got such a wide range of answers I figured I post. Got a '95 legacy sedan, 5mt. During acceleration, I get power loss. It clears up if I pump the gas > 5x OR if the RPMs go over 3500. It also clears up (sometimes) if I push in the clutch. This problem happens most reliably when going slightly downhill. Changing the plug wires hasn't helped.

'95 Legacy sdn 5mt. My highest calculated was 31. My lowest was 25. Usually its around 28. Somewhat surprising considering its got the tick of death.

There's adjustment for that where the cable meets the fork (assuming you have cable). I added a couple of nuts as a spacer to remove slack, then adjusted the clutch sensor. My pedal throw is half what it was stock.