moosens
Members-
Posts
7844 -
Joined
-
Days Won
111
moosens last won the day on October 30
moosens had the most liked content!
About moosens
- Birthday 03/14/1963
Profile Information
-
Gender
Male
-
Location
Bridgeport CT
-
Occupation
pc 11671 when post count set to zero
-
Referral
1998 there were a few Subaru dedicated message boards and this one was the best.
-
Biography
If you read this far your biography needs someone else's life inserted.
-
Vehicles
70's for fun , 2.2 & 2.5 for daily
Recent Profile Visitors
The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.
moosens's Achievements
Elite Master of the Subaru (11/11)
799
Reputation
-
'79 Brat EJ22 Retrofit Build Thread
moosens replied to mka's topic in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
Good luck with it. I hope you keep that momentum rolling forward. Most inspirational. -
1983 Brat Hitachi distributor wiring
moosens replied to acarcollector's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Ignition timing advance from the weights expanding etc inside the distributor. But yes there’s also the difference of the vacuum ports. What I’m getting at is folks had appreciated that ignition curve advance from the different distributor. Wish I had that crisp memory of which and why but maybe the archives might hold some info. But just reverting to stock it won’t mean much. There might be wiring diagrams online. Or they’re definitely in the back of all factory service manuals. I sold off my 80s but they’re cheap enough usually. -
1983 Brat Hitachi distributor wiring
moosens replied to acarcollector's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Maybe swapped for the advance curve. That was a bit of a thing to do for some. I’m not positive that applies to yours but i seem to recall the automatics had a better advance curve and maybe FWD different from 4wd ? I would have to check a parts manual. But that was my only thought on why they swapped it out. My 79 4wd wagon was swapped out with a FWD complete engine and exhaust. So i had to decipher that at one point due to ignition parts. Same deal it’s Hitachi or ND. Good luck with it. -
I’ll look for you as I go through my stash. Pretty sure there’s one there. But as mentioned going forward parts availability. Forget originality just make it run and not be a hunt and wallet drain for parts. good luck, I’m a big fan of that engine and have at least two or more but they’re for vintage projects. So all my engine and related parts I don’t really want to sell. But in this case if I have that bracket I’ll let one go cheap.
-
Contact me if interested. Message here or email me at moosens@yahoo.com Brown, northeast car so it’s got its spots of rot. But overall solid enough to have fun with and run for many more years. Could be repaired by the right person. This car has already been stripped pretty well. But I will return the doors and hood, and I think maybe the rear hatch but I’m not sure about that. Car will needs fenders. I think I have the brown one still. We can talk about that. Maybe another $50 and I’d be happy. Currently only on rear wheels. Not really sure what I’ll leave on it so be sure you are coming with a flatbed or trailer. Again, assuming you’re upgrading and won’t need this stuff, and if you’re going original this is the last year of U-Joint axles so you’d likely want to go with 79 and later years axles. This car may come with some extra parts beyond the shell. All depends on what the taker is doing with it. If you’re SURE you’re going to keep it mostly original I can help you out. BUT - the transmission in this car stays with me. Engine already out and used. Doors are very solid and lower edges really nice considering they’re from up here. Plenty of info and pics if you’re serious. It’s fairly cheap already but if actually come through and soon before winter I’ll make the deal super sweet.
-
Larry, it’s tough around here. Too many lawyers. Most places don’t let you walk around anymore. You guys enjoy what you have ! Tom, there’s always F&S. If it’s older than 20 years just talk with one of the guys in the Roxbury yard like Jeff. Not sure about Johnny’s in Thomaston, i think it’s changed hands but that was another good yard where he would let you walk around. Which place do you go to? LaJoie’s?
-
These guys and maybe Emily too, they’ll know more and be more than myself but a few items mentioned I can’t help but comment on. Bolt holes should have been super cleaned and same for bolts. I seem to recall you did use a thread chaser. But it’s not going to get easier going forward. If your heart is going to let your wallet solve problems on an EA82 in 2025/2026 it’ll get pricey and limited with who will take on such work. I’d give it another try but only after each and every bolt and its hole are cleaned and inspected for fit. Also my opinion - you likely started it up when you shouldn’t have. And i would take the heads off and be sure coolant isn’t where it shouldn’t be. Take a breath, you’ll have it back in action. You have to assess that O ring fitment. I know sometimes they look off but consider the sqaush down. FujiBond or equiv. should cure of course. You’ll need to see what that happened. Maybe had a solvent wipe-down that seeped in? Oil pan, i would try to reuse it if it came off like i expect it would having not been roasted. If not then they should be available or use sealant. Lots of is have used sealant only. Or a light smear behind the cork gasket. You’re still at a good age so enjoy that exercise, learning, and building speed and proficiency. And should you find yourself defeated after your efforts - find yourself and EJ22 - last resort, i know. I’m of the same skull density cult. Cheers !
-
Is this a lifestyle??
moosens replied to Almostborncanadian's topic in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
Enjoy the venture! Many of us, the few still left here after the great FB saturation, have turned the pages on the EA82 era. Lucky for you i think there’s a current active member with a wealth of EA82 experience. I sure had mine, but i’m pretty much a user and abuser a backyard mechanic. Don’t be afraid to attack that heater unit. Pretty sure i did a write up on removing the dashboard and heater or accessing it for the core swap. That will also allow duct cleaning, flapper door re-foaming, general bleach n water wipedown, let it sit and do it a second time some would say. -
'78 brat wheel drum frozen tight.
moosens replied to DaveAP's topic in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
Ahh, no holes. Sorry, dealing with too many later models here. Yikes! Yeah not much else other than what you mentioned. Remove the brake adjuster nuts and let it float inside while you strike a drift against the backside of the drum. This draws a memory. Good luck. Let us know how you tricked it into removing itself. -
'78 brat wheel drum frozen tight.
moosens replied to DaveAP's topic in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
Hi Dave, yeah I’m still kicking. Indeed many or most bailed out to face boob. It’s not so bad as long as you’re like us old guys and don’t get involved with anything other than cars. If you dare to sigh in there’s a couple dedicated groups for us dinosaurs. Old School Subaru and 4x140 or GTFO , those two are where I’ll be found. I created a pre-74 Subaru but it’s very quiet. Just a place for the very early 1100s 1300s and the first 1400 folks to exchange information. About that drum, geez, I thought you were near the desert. Either way wow that one sounds unusual. Not much I’m going to add at this time other that the usual get that 10lb sledge out or keep heating and spraying. Maybe get some strong bolts and send them in through the drum with those holes they leave for the tool? -
GL, GL10, Loyale Clutch Cable Replacement
moosens replied to scoobydube's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Forgot to add my NOS cables are from the 70s and sat in a barn for a couple decades and on top of that now I’m a good 18 years after the lot purchase we made. Good luck.
