moosens

Wish I could be helpful but do you have a part number for that solenoid you’re looking for?

I think just a hell of a lot of back n forth, up n down, heat, penetrant, prayers, voodoo dolls, whatever you’ve got. Going back to the intake manifold bolts and their holes I would not hesitate to check the threads and run a tap down them, bottoming tap if possible. You’re in territory we’ve left long ago. But our memories aren’t so faded. Those intake bolts and their holes get a lot of corrosion no matter where you live and they are notoriously difficult. Given you’ve got yours out comfortably maybe you’ll get lucky and they’ll seat with enough torque again. But I would not place good odds on that happening. For sure you should use some Loctite. What I’ve done and others is use an insert, not a heli-coil. The Brand I use is TimeSerts and they’re a little more but you’ll be able to remove your bolts with ease and send them back in again. Your choice and I don’t blame you if you just use Loctite and call it a day. Just be aware those are old and we’ve been there. I would not count on any old sealant that’s been cured for ages resetting itself at this point. I thought those were just pressed in.

Last line in my post above. Lol I might have one still. I don’t have EA82 items in general but I can picture one in a plastic multi drawer thingamajig. Don’t hold your breath though. Otherwise I would hope one of us has one or find a yard with one sitting around. Good luck and please post back with your results.

Been ages for me but I’m surprised you haven’t seen any of that in the archives. I’m old but I sure do recall folks posting that info. I’be ditched the 80s and all my service manuals etc, but I’m pretty sure the code page is posted as well as how to manage the green and black connectors. 87 is a split year. You get carbs and SPFI here in the States. I’ve swapped them and plugged the EGR and lots more but again I’m a solid 20 years from having one under me. Good luck. I’ll see if I’ve still got one FSM from that era but I doubt it. They should be online. https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ There’s one for older models out there too. I just can’t find it. This one might have some info.

Codes are flashes. Benny made a recent post on that. Long and short flashes indicate tens and single digits. Three longs and two shorts would be 32. And like that.

Have you checked your timing to make sure it didn’t skip a tooth ? Not sure how you did but I like to use clamps on the cams to hold the belts in place, get that last loop of the belt over the toothed gear which I leave loose until the belt slips over, then you can easily release the tensioner and your belt shouldn’t move. Just a tip. I’m guessing you have plenty of experience with other makes. Distributor ok ? No play side to side? If it is fuel your pump sits on a little shelf in back under the car on the right side. Getting hard to find replacements but maybe not so bad for this generation. I think Walbro made a good one for the EA82 FI cars. Post back what you found, and good luck. Some folks may also suggest the pressure regulator.

Archives should have answers on mixing ends. I seem to recall folks swapping ends but be sure to verify. There should also be a reference chart that I recently saw.

Someone can step up now and be The Man. But again I’d make sure PRP isn’t going to stock themselves with a mass amount and act accordingly. But you guys should have no problem getting your money back on a batch of 200 Sucks that they went to 200 from our 50pc orders. But that generation has a much larger audience. You’ve got folks in various continents looking for them. Your place will smell like rubber so be sure you’ve got garage or shed space. Or a very tolerant family/room mates.

No I meant you. That’s kind of a lot of cable changing. Common problem with the pedal box flexing.

Are you sure you don’t have a crack in the pedal box around the pivot pin area on the left side?

Really sorry I can’t recall the guy. I’ll look around in my stuff. I bought a set of various bits in a lot. I got black but pretty sure he had other colors and a close enough blue and tan. So yes, there’s at least one guy. But pardon my forgetfulness at this time. It’ll come to me. I’m old now.

My opinion. Go big and get it done right. Make a post on FB and here and anywhere with gen two people. You’ve got a contact at PRP so that’s good. When we did ours (twice) they said pretty much the same thing. The mold might be gone, etc, and they do come from Thailand where the rubber is plentiful in production. You’ll end up with at least a couple or so for free. You’re not going to send each one out with payment to the penny. You’ll cover a little for your expenses. Tape, gathering boxes or envelopes, gas, time… you’d be a fool to not cover yourself, right? They will come. At least enough to cover the order or cover enough that you’re comfortable retaining a larger number but knowing you’ll have a steady market over the coming years. Those you’ll charge a little more for too. If you take this route I would be SURE you know if PRP will also be stocking these. If so, how many? Think it out and play the ball accordingly. If they’re going to stock 100 then you’d probably rethink keeping a large number for the future. Otherwise what happened to the Route66 Motors guy who had them on eBay ? Here in the USA And there was or still is Phil’s in Australia The shipping issue is a tough one. I also don’t like shipping over seas. Good luck. I’m not in that group anymore so I won’t kicking in on the deal. But we did it twice. With batches of 50. And I handled it. Everyone was happy.

There are two ports in your intake. One for air/fuel mixture and one for coolant/antifreeze. Sometimes that gasket under the intake goes and even sometimes just a bad moment as you’re installing etc. There’s no crack in the gasket your dad put on previous? Left bank only I’d be thinking head gasket. Maybe the shop messed up somehow. Let us know what you find.

If that’s the case I have a set of new old stock headgaskets for only $20 on eBay right now. I’m kind of beat right now but I’ll give this some thought.

Most serious year ever for making space and passing along some vintage Subaru parts. Milford CT

Still here. Would like to sell this instead of store it. I have my own already. No that doesn’t mean I’m dropping the price. But stop by and I’ll bet you’ll want other items too.

Now we’re talkin’ , thanks man. I’ll be doing that after my lunch.

East coast folks I have a front windshield on eBay right now. $200 pick up in Milford CT ”cashingmystuffin” on eBay. I’m very very very serious about cleaning house. Stop by and enjoy the savings.

Hey just so you know the advice I gave you was from a master Subaru tech who did this often. I also had to drop a pan and change out a full transmission harness etc. It’s not too big of a deal really. Good luck. Transmission pan gasket and some sealant if you desire. I think only sealant on the pan not to the block. That’s what I do on my old school pans. Never an issue.

I’ve heard tree frogs make that noise. Seriously , doesn’t sound normal to me.

Is this where some guy chimes in to break your stones about not having a reciprocating saw? Oh wait that’s FB Cool deal. I’m with you for having as opposed to finding out later you have not. You can trash it when the job is done I always say. Keep up the good work. This is very likely on my horizon.

You can drop the pan and spray the cartridge. You’ll see. The slider valves are exposed and I think you can even feel for binding. Try that first.

1900 is double the normal idle pretty much. So that firstly should be addressed. No CEL going off? Online manuals are likely found here:https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Old Models--/ Been a while for me since I’ve had any EA82s but from memory there’s often issues with the CTS coolant temp sensor, or the IAC I think. Closed system for air that’s what google was alluding to. Check for leaks, yes. Adjust the timing how so? Just the distributor position? You have a timing light ? Should be cheap enough these days. Get a feel for that too although your car is kind of a “set it and forget it” type of deal. Going forward and not on subject here, be sure to get yourself some timing belts while you maybe can still find them. It’s the drivers side USA that’s the hardest to find since that’s the one that typically goes. Check for any wobble in your distributor too. Lift the cap and rotor too and grab the top and shake it left right front back. You will be ok with a slight up and down play but should be nothing side to side. Start there and I’m sure others who run those engines still will chime in.

Well you were raised right. Thank your parents for us, please. You’ll do well with this car I can tell. There’s enough older guys still out there who contribute to the knowledge base. And plenty of archives here. So back to the transmission, most dual range five speeds are going to be ready to use. See if maybe there’s some info or a video on a basic check if a differential online. I think you grab both stub axles and rotate forward and rear should turn counter clockwise as you look at the tail of the transmission. But it’s been a long while for me. There’s not a lot to these and I’m pretty sure like Benny and myself you’re going to see older folks say “send it”. If it was the four speed I’d probably advise you to upgrade to the five.

And BTW please don’t be offended by the “thrifty types” comment. I’m in that batch - New England boy. This is generally a site for folks who wrench themselves or are lower budgeted and looking for assistance on older cars. So it’s a big boat and we’re all in it. With very little exception.