moosens

Glad you’re on the mainland, Larry. Don’t think I need anything right now but as always it’s great that you’re there for us diehard old Subaru owners. Tip of the hat. Cheers!

Good luck with it. I hope you keep that momentum rolling forward. Most inspirational.

Ignition timing advance from the weights expanding etc inside the distributor. But yes there’s also the difference of the vacuum ports. What I’m getting at is folks had appreciated that ignition curve advance from the different distributor. Wish I had that crisp memory of which and why but maybe the archives might hold some info. But just reverting to stock it won’t mean much. There might be wiring diagrams online. Or they’re definitely in the back of all factory service manuals. I sold off my 80s but they’re cheap enough usually.

Maybe swapped for the advance curve. That was a bit of a thing to do for some. I’m not positive that applies to yours but i seem to recall the automatics had a better advance curve and maybe FWD different from 4wd ? I would have to check a parts manual. But that was my only thought on why they swapped it out. My 79 4wd wagon was swapped out with a FWD complete engine and exhaust. So i had to decipher that at one point due to ignition parts. Same deal it’s Hitachi or ND. Good luck with it.

I’ll look for you as I go through my stash. Pretty sure there’s one there. But as mentioned going forward parts availability. Forget originality just make it run and not be a hunt and wallet drain for parts. good luck, I’m a big fan of that engine and have at least two or more but they’re for vintage projects. So all my engine and related parts I don’t really want to sell. But in this case if I have that bracket I’ll let one go cheap.

Contact me if interested. Message here or email me at moosens@yahoo.com Brown, northeast car so it’s got its spots of rot. But overall solid enough to have fun with and run for many more years. Could be repaired by the right person. This car has already been stripped pretty well. But I will return the doors and hood, and I think maybe the rear hatch but I’m not sure about that. Car will needs fenders. I think I have the brown one still. We can talk about that. Maybe another $50 and I’d be happy. Currently only on rear wheels. Not really sure what I’ll leave on it so be sure you are coming with a flatbed or trailer. Again, assuming you’re upgrading and won’t need this stuff, and if you’re going original this is the last year of U-Joint axles so you’d likely want to go with 79 and later years axles. This car may come with some extra parts beyond the shell. All depends on what the taker is doing with it. If you’re SURE you’re going to keep it mostly original I can help you out. BUT - the transmission in this car stays with me. Engine already out and used. Doors are very solid and lower edges really nice considering they’re from up here. Plenty of info and pics if you’re serious. It’s fairly cheap already but if actually come through and soon before winter I’ll make the deal super sweet.

Their yard in Roxbury is wild. Ever been there? I might be up there this week.

Larry, it’s tough around here. Too many lawyers. Most places don’t let you walk around anymore. You guys enjoy what you have ! Tom, there’s always F&S. If it’s older than 20 years just talk with one of the guys in the Roxbury yard like Jeff. Not sure about Johnny’s in Thomaston, i think it’s changed hands but that was another good yard where he would let you walk around. Which place do you go to? LaJoie’s?

These guys and maybe Emily too, they’ll know more and be more than myself but a few items mentioned I can’t help but comment on. Bolt holes should have been super cleaned and same for bolts. I seem to recall you did use a thread chaser. But it’s not going to get easier going forward. If your heart is going to let your wallet solve problems on an EA82 in 2025/2026 it’ll get pricey and limited with who will take on such work. I’d give it another try but only after each and every bolt and its hole are cleaned and inspected for fit. Also my opinion - you likely started it up when you shouldn’t have. And i would take the heads off and be sure coolant isn’t where it shouldn’t be. Take a breath, you’ll have it back in action. You have to assess that O ring fitment. I know sometimes they look off but consider the sqaush down. FujiBond or equiv. should cure of course. You’ll need to see what that happened. Maybe had a solvent wipe-down that seeped in? Oil pan, i would try to reuse it if it came off like i expect it would having not been roasted. If not then they should be available or use sealant. Lots of is have used sealant only. Or a light smear behind the cork gasket. You’re still at a good age so enjoy that exercise, learning, and building speed and proficiency. And should you find yourself defeated after your efforts - find yourself and EJ22 - last resort, i know. I’m of the same skull density cult. Cheers !

Enjoy the venture! Many of us, the few still left here after the great FB saturation, have turned the pages on the EA82 era. Lucky for you i think there’s a current active member with a wealth of EA82 experience. I sure had mine, but i’m pretty much a user and abuser a backyard mechanic. Don’t be afraid to attack that heater unit. Pretty sure i did a write up on removing the dashboard and heater or accessing it for the core swap. That will also allow duct cleaning, flapper door re-foaming, general bleach n water wipedown, let it sit and do it a second time some would say.

Ahh, no holes. Sorry, dealing with too many later models here. Yikes! Yeah not much else other than what you mentioned. Remove the brake adjuster nuts and let it float inside while you strike a drift against the backside of the drum. This draws a memory. Good luck. Let us know how you tricked it into removing itself.

Hi Dave, yeah I’m still kicking. Indeed many or most bailed out to face boob. It’s not so bad as long as you’re like us old guys and don’t get involved with anything other than cars. If you dare to sigh in there’s a couple dedicated groups for us dinosaurs. Old School Subaru and 4x140 or GTFO , those two are where I’ll be found. I created a pre-74 Subaru but it’s very quiet. Just a place for the very early 1100s 1300s and the first 1400 folks to exchange information. About that drum, geez, I thought you were near the desert. Either way wow that one sounds unusual. Not much I’m going to add at this time other that the usual get that 10lb sledge out or keep heating and spraying. Maybe get some strong bolts and send them in through the drum with those holes they leave for the tool?

Great info, thanks !

Uncovered some New Old Stock and re-chromed bumpers for gen one Brat and 4wd wagon. Listed on ebay. Check all out items on ebay under “cashingmystuffin”

Forgot to add my NOS cables are from the 70s and sat in a barn for a couple decades and on top of that now I’m a good 18 years after the lot purchase we made. Good luck.

Check for a crack in thr pedalbox. Left side near the pivot pin. Get down there and either press the clutch pedal with a hand ot have someone else do it while you observe the left side of the box. If it flexes at all you’ll likely have that crack. Do it regardless of all you’ve done and learned. This is a common problem. I have new old stock cables i sometimes need and they’re fine. If anything just a squirt of lube. But they're coated and should not bind much until many many many years of weather and grime.

Now I guess I’ll have to build a big box over the bed. It’ll be stocked with spares. Oh wait, first I need a Baja. Jim, you in Weston these days? If you’re bored in that retirement of yours I can keep you busy. ( big grin ) Big purge in process. Serious reduction of stock. And whatever else we really don’t need. Storage unit number two must go. Hey , you guys don’t forget my questions above.

To those wondering about tank treatment and fuel compatibility Moyer claims theirs is good for all contemporary fuels. I used my tank for a little over a year then removed it because the new owner is making the wagon electric. So I kept that tank and it looks like the day I got it back on the inside, and out. Enjoy !

Whenever a severe fuel tank issue comes up i offer that I sent mine Moyer in PA They have their own non epoxy patented formula they use after completely removing all rust snd they’ll do any repairs as needed. Mine was from a 79 4wd wagon same tank as a Brat. It cost $500 total with shipping. The tank looks bulletproof and should last through my kids lives. Ok $500 isn’t for everyone so use one of the many methods. But from what you’ve described it seems severe to me. Folks have done motorcycle tanks in cement mixers with the tank wrapped in moving blankets. Think up your own method or research. Lots of folks have used nuts n bolts and cover the holes - after adding some solution like gasoline, swish it around but with a car tank thats quite the chore. So maybe something similar to the cement mixer method. I own a condo and it was better for me to open the wallet. Good luck. pardon any typos, phone is being unkind. Moyer: http://www.gas-tank.com Unsecure site it says but they’re fine and you can bet if you do business with them it’ll be secure. Nice people on the phone too.

I’ve never been too crazy about the Baja but I’m thinking I might as well dive in. We already own a handful of 2000-04 Legacys. I am aware they’re all the same platform but never really looked to close at some details. Maybe you can help. Swap over parts from a wagon or sedan that I am just looking to confirm would easily exchange: Headlights? Legacy or Outback - we have both Exhaust ? Is that a copy of the wagon? And are the Baja fuel tanks their own or shared with wagon? Anything else you think it please let me know like dashboard, controls, etc. Thanks !

Bump since I edited the title. Still love my tank. Still feel it’s a great investment. If you’re up north or east of the plains condensation can be a killer. Never cleaned the top of the tank off? Then you’re due for pinholes. When that time comes check out Moyer. No, they didn’t pay me.

Wow my phone typos yeeehaaa

Maybe i missed it but have you gotten an engine stand and flushed those head bolt holes? That’s going to be key. Same with bolt threads. Don’t sweat it all. Designs like these cam towers are reasons I have closed my chapter or EA82s but hey its your special engine so i understand your commitment. But to a lot of is older folks its just an EA82 and just do tour best, don’t go nuts with retotqueing the cam tower and etc etc but i am NOT a mechanic. Good luck.

Shop those transport people. Did you put yours up for bid? If you do or did, wait after they send their first and even second offers. Maybe try to make a contact but still wait even if you give more details or talk to one of them. You’ll see the price drop dramatically. I’ve done this a few times. Also if you’re not too worried about the $2k as long as you included a nice roadtrip you can do what I did last year and fly out, rent the truck and pull along, and bring it back yourself. That ride through the southwest and using I-40 into the Appalachians is really awesome. I stopped to see another one of us vintage Subaru owners in NC before heading north back home. Either way you won’t miss the money and you’ll have a really great memory to have and share. I’m just now getting my 1977 stage one 4WD wagon from NM back to roadworthy. I put those Forceum mudslinger tires on some powder coated white spoke wheels and it’s already turning heads and hasn’t left the condo parking lot. Money comes and goes. I know how it is. I’m working class. So we don’t really talk about this but if you skirt the rules a little you can use a box truck and trailer and bring back two. Shhhh just something I heard.

I did this a million years ago. Just make a simple plate. I cut mine from something i can’t recall but the metal was blued. Might have been an old blade but anyways i made it somewhat diamond/football shaped and drilled the two hole, times two pieces. In my state it was never an issue with emissions. Block them off and i would just go for a metal to metal seal. That’s one heck of a hot spot so not really sure which or any sealant could be used. Maybe cut up part of and old exhaust gasket? But mine worked fine metal to metal.