moosens

Keep in mind I’m talking Loyale series and older. I probably have the parts from one of my parts cars but it’s one of those items I haven’t had to deal with yet. And now it looks like I’m stepping aside from the first gen Legacy for a while. Did you also post on FB ? I think I replied there. I’m in CT and will be blowing out decades of parts. My dedication is 1970s, first gen Legacy, and 2002-04 Legacy only. And I hand a few of the first gen Legs. Getting the boxes out these days and really hoping to unload it all or large lots for cheap. Cheers!

Pretty sure these also still have a ballast resistor I believe it is called. I’ll try to find the location when I get home. But on the older models it’s down there at the blower fan box. The older ones have a ceramic type of application over three of the four resistor wires and the fourth is a straight load. That fourth one or your number four on your dashboard switch will always operate as I recall.

Some folks have baked their ECUs just enough to get the solder to loosen up and reset. Also check every ground for good metal contact. And if the general field that a ground lands on is a rusty area that’s not considered a good ground. Folks add ground wires. Usually see the braided type, nice and thick. That would be a starting point. Good luck. Post back.

Thanks ! I’ll swap them over as soon as life stops pulling me around to everything but my car repairs.

Installed new cam follower sensor and the wires were completely different to what the car’s harness has. So I set the sensor in place and went by which wire I felt was closer to the ones on the harness. Still throwing the code sometimes. Car will run but seems like it’s in a default mode. If I press the gas pedal it’ll be very choppy at the first couple thousand RPMs but runs pretty well around 3k and then some. 2006 Outback wagon. 2.5 n/a engine. Thanks!

Bump. Still waiting for this car but it should be at our property soon. And as soon as it gets here I’m anxious for it to be done with and leaving. Please check all my posts if you’re a 70’s owner.

Busy year for us so we are blowing out parts to make space quickly. Stop by Milford CT if you can. Or get in touch. Shipping is possible for many items.

Tough to find. The stores don’t seem to care to carry the Castrol I’d prefer with the zinc. To answer your question , I’d say no it does not need the zinc but if added that would be helpful. I’m no expert. But I’ve been running 70s EA71s a long time with the oils I am forced to purchase. 95% of the time it’s the non-zinc oil. And I actually use my 1979 EA71 car often.

That brown one pulls my heart strings. That was my first brat , same color, stripe, high SnugTop, front bar, and I’m sure there’s a high roll bar and rear seats, right? Have to really crawl around to get a fair assessment. Is the silver one an 80 with the second small blue air filter/breather ? Or an 81 with an 1800 and dual range? Does that one have quad headlights like the brown one?

Dual range five speed ? all time favorite None in any yards out west ? https://www.car-part.com/mobile/index.htm

About three years ago or so I had a 2000 Legacy donor and used that engine in our 2003. Take a minute and check the archives. It’s not a big deal. Good luck.

You may get the flex on those outlets. I’m starting to think I was doing the same approach on the parts car. But that’s a fading foggy memory.

From my 1985 factory parts catalog which has the dual range: station wagon with dual range non turbo would use p/n 23221 GA232 the best I can tell. and the part name indicates 7AC I can’t post pics right now and I’m a little worn out from the day. It’s a little confusing with the other axles so I’d better rest and look at it again another time. It seems there are a couple models that have a turbo but get 23 spline axles, which is weird. The 25 spline axles are the predominant turbo axle for sure. Maybe the 23 for automatics or something I’m not seeing.

I’m going through parts as the weather warms. For sure I have the MAF from at least the 92-94 and maybe 90-91. I’m not sure there’s even a difference on that item. Probably all the same for all EJ22E 90-96. As I can I’ll check the boxes I have which happen to be right up front waiting for spring. If I have the 5-pin I’ll let you know asap.

Hey maybe your lucky moment. I have that exact transmission which I personally extracted from a 2000 Legacy GT wagon. It is a 4:11 I pretty sure. Those also run larger wheels. The car I purchased to part out for my own needs (engine) had a front end collision. Car had only 124k on it. I jumped on this once I saw it. That engine is in our wagon. We drove it from east coast to west and it now resides in AZ with our son. That was over two years ago. So the engine should speak for the transmission for future reliability. I have the transmission on a dolly in my storage. It’s in Milford CT if that helps. I haven’t checked your location but I’ll do that after I post this. Being February in New England it’s a little chilly out to make a crate. But if you’re wanting it shipped I’d be willing once the temps get a little higher. Off topic- somehow I cannot locate the remote dashboard cup holder I had from that GT. But I also have a good load of parts from that 2000 GT and also from a 2002 sedan. I don’t want much at all. I’m cleaning house and would be happy to make a sweet deal on that transmission.

I’m not sure you can flex those lines out of the way enough to slide it out. All ok here with our 2003s. The one from this post is now in AZ hopefully for the rest of its life. We have our sedan 2003 here and to date no issues with anything coolant related. So I don’t really have any experience since the parts car with exploring the swap. But I’m pretty sure with that parts car that I had reached the same point. Just had no time to finish playing parts gatherer. If you proceed on your own please post results. I plan on keeping at least one from this era around for many years.

That’s the era where they (SOA) really tighten up with dealer stock. Dealers are told to destroy parts or at least damage them as they throw them out. So finding 80’s and later NOS is more tricky than 70’s. But Carl Porter is the big man these days for NOS since I’ve been getting out of this habit slowly. He’s here once in a while. Find him in FB if you haven’t already.

For the benefit of others: David Melcher sure has helped a lot of us. Only gotten to know him over this last decade or less but I’ve done well with getting parts from him as others have. A very decent person to deal with. One of the very few people selling parts on FB that you can trust. I agree with Bennie, same foggy memory too. Shouldn’t need anything beyond the mounting bracket and belts. Good luck with the hunt.

If you score factory service manuals be sure you get the sections you need. Don’t just buy sections 4,5,6 without being sure they’re to your benefit. Usually it’s section 2 that’s the Engine or Engine/Transmission And you would be ok with getting any of the years around your car like 87-89 and I’m pretty sure you’ll have the info you need and then some. Plenty of us have it had them. Sorry that I got rid of all my 80’s pretty much. Good luck. You’ll be fine. Being an EA82T my first thought is to check air leaks and the O2 sensor but that’s based off of my limited experience with those and may not even be your cause. But it’s a good item to check off your list. That’s a closed air system. So it doesn’t want additional air. Again, likely not your issue. But may help for general maintenance.

Also posted on one of the FB groups, yes? You’re in Australia? Has the EA71 gotten that scarce down there? I’d move on just thinking the internals are not going to offer enough vs the effort. And that there’s another engine or two to be had cheap enough. If you’re hell bent then I’m only likely to offer the same advice of others. Soak , heat , soak , heat , effort. Good luck. Stay healthy during the process!

Mmmm tasty ! Nice job.

I would think so. Find the air leaks first then back that idle screw out appropriately. Good luck

Set the clutch and allow 1/8” play to the hill holder engagement is how I recall that adjustment. But it’s been about a decade since I’ve owned one. If nobody else chimes in I’ll look it up in the manual. Or did you lose the nuts at the threaded end?

At the hill holder unit is there a stubby thick wire spring on the lever that cable would pull ? Maybe he took the spring off and didn’t really secure the lever and that lever has worked its way back?

Maybe that was a more current car? Maybe still being paid off or still had significant value. My case is a 1994 totaled in 2022 or whatever year it was. But for sure the car was over 25 years old. To the original poster, good job!