moosens

Set the clutch and allow 1/8” play to the hill holder engagement is how I recall that adjustment. But it’s been about a decade since I’ve owned one. If nobody else chimes in I’ll look it up in the manual. Or did you lose the nuts at the threaded end?

At the hill holder unit is there a stubby thick wire spring on the lever that cable would pull ? Maybe he took the spring off and didn’t really secure the lever and that lever has worked its way back?

Maybe that was a more current car? Maybe still being paid off or still had significant value. My case is a 1994 totaled in 2022 or whatever year it was. But for sure the car was over 25 years old. To the original poster, good job!

Awesome. Don’t think nobody’s watching. I’m just too busy with other stuff and my similar project is a good year away or more. Thanks for posting all the pics and details.

Tom, here in CT I was able to keep my “totaled due to value,etc.” Legacy but only I can continue to drive it. If I sell the car that next owner has to take it through CT inspection to verify it’s still roadworthy. So that’s another amazing thing they do in our favor. I was amazed. And of course I’m VERY happy since my 94 is the family truck and just keeps rolling and functioning. Tell your friend !

DRW works for me. I have gen one cars. Not sure how much he has for your generation but he seems to do a great job all around. On the gen one rear differential hanger bushings I did indeed have to cut out the sleeves. And his urethane replacements do not have either inner or outer sleeve. But there seems to be a lot of confidence in them as he makes them. From sight I’m thinking those control arm bushings aren’t much different in that they appear to have an inner and outer sleeve. But my eyes are old. Either way you’ll do well with one of the few small businesses helping us.

Thanks. Yeah I’m not sure but I think ours is not CANBUS Hadn’t thought about a block swap. But given my space to work that’s getting more tricky. That’s why I’d hope to just do the full ECU, harness, and power plant in one shot. Kind of what folks did with second gen Legacys. Yes you’re right, I probably do need to wait to get past the law. But they upped it to 25 years now not 20 anymore. That could mean indeed be an issue since it has another emission test due. My state may have some flex. We are amazing cool with our lack of inspections. But the emissions you can’t too easily get around with these newer pieces of plastic. This 2.5 in our 06 is just annoying me. I probably need some patience and more time with it. Cheers !

Fly by wire obstacle what else ?

I’ll ask around but figured I’d start here. I have a 2.2 and ECU and full harness. Also still have a running 94 Legacy with same EJ22 and all it’s associated bits. I am due to take the 94 off our books. It’s rotting in the corners etc but still functions fine. Looking for that more simple, more reliable power plant for our 2006 OBW.

Larry Merry Christmas to you too. Hope you’re in sand and not snow. Cheers!

That supposed to say Dye to run up the bolts.

I bow to you sir ! Congratulations. Thread chasers ? Due to clean up the bolts? Or find fresh ones. If find yourself getting fussy here in CT we’ve got this killer little place called the Nutty Company. And you’ll get pretty much what you need there. Not that you necessarily need these but I’d check your exhaust studs too. And if you care to the Nutty Co. has threaded rod in that size. I picked up a length and have taken a few cuts from it for various exhaust studs from 1600s to 2.2 and maybe the 2.5 too. Just a little info. Good luck.

Yikes! Wiring is going to be a chore. I wish I had some harnesses to help you out. If you don’t mind please send me an email at moosens@yahoo.com just so I can send pics etc easier. Here on the USMB I need to sort out my pictures and maybe cough up some more donations. Otherwise I’d post pics here. Not sure how you feel about this but we used to say the 1600 was bulletproof. And then came the 2.2 and people called it 2.2 magic. I’d say it’s the best engine the public ever got with my beloved 1600s second place. That’s why I have an approximately 4,000 mile 2.2 engine and harness ready to put into my Coupe someday. Going to send you a message too. Talk soon.

Sounds like we’re the same type of uhh ……enthusiasts. But I’d stop short of the 360. With me it’s the early 70’s now. I’ve got my 73 Coupe and 77 stage one 4WD wagon. And my daily is a 94 same as you’re taking on, 2.2 first generation Legacy. Probably the best car they ever gave us. Enjoy ! Let me know what you need. Right now I’m cleaning house in major fashion and I’ve got boxes of 90-94 Legacy parts I could easily just donate and other items very cheap. I need space. In case you didn’t know this your car is the same nose as a 1990-91 but in 92-94 they change the lights etc. Folks refer to that as the “facelift” years. I have a very nice set of headlights for yours. Enjoy that 2.2

That crusty return spring on the belt tensioner could use some help. Guessing the tensioner pulley pivot could be sticky too. Check that manual and see how much belt deflection there should be.

With the car running spray so carb cleaner or wd-40 around the suspected intake gaskets and carb base. See if that makes any change in idle. Yeah looking like time to change pulleys etc

Here’s one suggestion. And this is what I did and at least one other guy back in the day. Find the old Owner’s manual with the Dealer locator and the other crap. Toss the other crap and look at that dealer locator and now see which of those are still around. Call the parts guy, and do not talk to anyone else or let anyone else there know why you’re calling. If there’s a closet, loft, storage container, etc etc where they kept tucking parts away it’ll be THAT GUY who knows it and would help you. Ok so it’s about to be 2025 now so this might not be as beneficial as it was when I was hunting 20-25 year old parts. Yours are now over 30 and we live in a different age. Keep in mind the basic story of Subaru in the USA. When they started to catch on they screwed their mom n pop corner lot dealers who were unable to make the jump to the size they wanted their dealers to take on. Enter the new wave of dealers and they’re rump roast kissers to SOA. SOA tells them they have to damage and destroy parts as they age past their sales limit. So lots of 80’s parts didn’t quite make it like the 70’s parts did. 70’s stuff still shows up. It’s its own weird story. Good luck. Same here , haven’t seen a boxy rump roast GL DL Loyale around here in ages. But my 79 is a freak show. Enjoy it !

Might be tricky to reach. I can’t recall since it’s been quite a while since I’ve owned that era Subaru. But I do know the lamp sockets twist 10 degrees or so and then pull away. Yes, grounds are a key when these cars get older. Be sure that ground is solid, clean, and there’s plenty of healthy metal around that general area or you’ll not have a big enough field to support a ground. If that’s the case run that ground to a more solid metal area.

Not trying to me mister sales department here but I do happen to be cleaning house of decades of Subaru life and currently have a set of factory timing belts on eBay. My name there is cashingmystuffin I don’t have much 80’s parts left but as they show up I’ll post them. The listing for these belts looks kind of crude because I just tried to help someone who wanted a buy it now option. Turns out I did this auction as well as the item he wanted. Was that you? Did you just buy that timing kit I had ? If so I’ll be digging that out tomorrow.

Short novel, you’re a good author. Tough call be you seem to have covered a lot already. CTS is often a culprit. You’re sure , even if it’s new , that it’s a good unit? Vacuum lines come to mind too. Always need a tight fit at all junctions. O2 sensor been dealt with that you know? If it runs well at any point chances are the timing is fine. If you put your foot into it and the engine is smooth then I’d not worry about timing. Although the one aspect of that to be sure of is the belt tensioner. With covers off crank it by hand with your 22mm if you want to feel secure about timing. Check your marks. And feel and note the tensioner doing its job. But it would seem more fuel/air/spark rather than crank/cam timing. Another item to check would be your distributor. Take the cap off and feel for excessive up and down play or side to side play when you grab the rotor. Try checking over all that and let’s see what you find.

Welcome and sweet score. Been a long time since I’ve moved on from those but still a place in my heart for the dual range five speed. Is that really a Wisconsin car ? Looks too good to be from the rust belt. Enjoy it ! Start searching parts cars.

Geez, I’m a backyard hack myself so I would go to my trusty but sometimes dangerous propane torch. I’m without a proper garage so my equipment range isn’t quite where I’d like it to be. But guys like us we always get by. Just be careful. Stay out of the newspapers my dad always told me. Those are super notorious. You’ll be working then for a long time and I’d still bet money you’re going to snap at least one bolt. Given the events up to now I’d say you’ve got a slim chance of being 100% successful. There are various manufacturers but TimeSerts are one brand where you drill, tap, and send in a threaded cylinder then stake it so it won’t back out. Then you can easily remove your bolts going forward for repairs in the future. Heli-coil is fine but won’t generally survive a removal. Yeah man, good luck on those bolts.

Speaking for myself it’s about not giving up on the Hitachi which to this point gave the vehicle how many miles ? Probably over a hundred thousand. So the Hitachi is proven. It’s when age creeps in and folks bail out. And I have experience with Webers but not on Subarus. Weber is a solution but you’re spending a bit more money and you’ll want a choke cable as they don’t have the convenient automatic choke. But if you’re still curious and have the extra money talk with those guys. I can’t really speak for putting a Weber on a Subaru.

Got your rethread kit ready ? My preference is/was TimeSert. A little pricey but top quality. I sure do wish you luck.

It could be the little tab on the end of the spiral spring is broken. A few things to consider. You could just deal with it and work the pedal. Could take that choke housing apart and likely see the small bent tab at the end of the spiral spring will have broken. Then either find another from a junkyard or an enthusiast. Could get the Weber kit.