moosens

edit / please delete or ignore this post thanks I posted this on the dreaded face boob in the appropriate Subaru groups. Here it’s not likely to get much attention but here goes. As a whole car this one isn’t a healthy base to create a running car from. It’s a parts car and has badly rotted through spots in various locations. Already missing the rear hatch and it’s pretty trashed inside. Naugatuck Connecticut is where the car sits. No engine. No rear hatch. Items like door glass etc I already have so you can score those very very cheap. If you have me take them out and ship just throw $15 my way for the effort of removal and packaging etc. Front windshield $200 Hood $200 it’s nice. Those are probably the only higher value parts. Has an aftermarket sunroof. Come take it yourself. Free if you stop by and remove it. Ceiling liner was cut out well. You can take that too. DL steering wheel not really great but if you need one it might help. Whole column. I didn’t yet look over the switches. Naugatuck CT

Busting balls here , that’s a parking brake. 6-8 clicks I’m pretty sure is what they are looking for. Got a service manual yet? Plenty on eBay cheap enough.

Congratulations again and great to see more classics in the northeast. Enjoy! Post back your car show trophies.

Awe geez you found your way into the great USMB. Get your ticket for the WBM yet ? Welcome or welcome back whichever may apply. Car looks great!

Sorry, turn the 22mm on the crank clockwise as you look at if from the front.

Easier than you may think. Grab a 22mm socket and ratchet and after removing the covers look for the alignment of the indentations on the sprockets. At one point all should point vertically to their mark on the inner covers and the main in the center you look above and you’ll see the mark I’m sure. Basic cam timing is always marked from the manufacturer. And the rest of the timing is out of our hands these days. Spray the backside of any bolt your going to remove on the covers. Let the nuts soak if you can. The covers tend to rack when the bolts won’t release. So don’t stress those. Just spray and maybe turn inwards a touch then back n forth.

Nice score , congratulations! Ok you’re inspiring. Not sure if you heard but I managed to smash my 94 wagon up a bit. But I’ve got parts and I’m slowly going to revive it. Enjoy!

Man some years have gone by, eh ? I’m doing well enough to pay bills and occasionally laugh a little. Thanks for asking. Hope you’re also paying bills and laughing occasionally or better. Nice to see you’re back. Best of luck!

Thanks Dave. Seems like what I researched a while back but never made a move on. I don’t have a laser cutter. But one way or another I’ll make it happen.

Please post back with your choice of material. I am in the same situation with my 79. I managed to find some rubber bladder type of material and I think I just need to snug my nuts down a bit better. But they are so delicate I sure don’t want to bust one of those tiny studs. Maybe that doesn’t read so well but hey laugh a little.

Thanks for following up. Kind of lucky that my 79 with the same brown tartan looks very good still. But I’m always on the lookout for a similar pattern.

Starting to become a more roadworthy vehicle little by little. Need one exhaust gasket for the flange at the rear of the Y pipe and then concentrate on brakes. Car now has its hard plates and good for three years on the registration.

Just a little JB Weld and wrap it with a piece from a soda can and you’re good to go. Much to say. But no need. Good luck with that.

One good thing about the older 70’s transmissions is they hadn’t begun to really suffer the synchro wear issue. It was nice seeing that transmission split and exposed.

Subafreak resealed my 4spd 1978 4wd transmission sometime around 2012 I think. He/we were able to score the seals and related but barely. If you’re ever going to do it I suggest hunting down the needed seals and gaskets etc immediately. Good luck and enjoy!

I can see you’re not in the real rust belt. But still one thing I would take a look at is the center bearing mount of the two piece prop shaft. It’s prone to rust and hobble around a bit. If that’s not it I’ll put my brain back to work but not at the moment. Good luck.

Look into a Vermont title. info is out there and likely mentioned in this forum Not as worrisome as you may think. Best of luck. And congratulations on the solid body find. My opinion: install the D/R 5spd as it is the grand goddess of all the transmissions Subaru threw at us. And from speaking with a master tech years back I recall he mentioned getting an 88 or 89 would be best. Final revisions etc. Enjoy!

r a clutch replacement - engine to bellhousing ? and while we were at it, we also replaced the front axles, - only at the knuckle if you loosened to assist axle r&r outer tie rods,- not seeing a 14mm bolt there distributor cap/rotor, spark plugs/wires, - have all the wire supports if any, back in place? and both drive belts. - not timing belts right? Anything else you may have moved aside to assist access? 14mm head is a bit sturdy for something like an overflow bottle mount etc . Good mystery.

Oh man what were some of the things jokers used to toss in to hush loud clicks n clacks ? Sawdust was one, I can tell ya that. Not saying that’s the case but uh, ya never know. More jokers out there than ever. Good luck with it.

Hey bud pardon me for not clicking on your link just yet. So when you say brackets does that mean you don’t have that one humongous bracket that handles the A/C and the Alt/Water Pump ? Sorry I can’t really add a picture so easily these days.

Do we raise a stink so all box stores carry Classic Castrol ? (With zinc) I’ve found it at only a few of the many stops I’ve made.

That board that looks like all the soldering is up to spec and functional - but has a flicker still - I’d be considering baking the board but I’m no expert and only going by what I am pretty sure I’ve read a few times. Maybe get a jeweler’s eye or magnifying glass etc and check those soldering points especially at the connectors. The usual weak spot. It’s a 97 OBS the S for Sport so surely you’ve been thrashing it about once or twice, no ? All the wiggling and jiggling. Good luck with it.

Carlisle PA at the fairgrounds. Import Show. Third weekend in May every year. Just going through old post threads and rather than delet this one we can kick it around until next May.

Good luck with this one. Old days you’d have several folks chiming in.

You might void the warranty… ok I’m just kidding. I don’t think the engine will have any catastrophic event using that oil. But I’ll let you know what I heard growing up. We would be content using Castrol - “engineered for small car engines” - marketing spew. We would use 10w40 in winter , and 5w oil in the summer. Pardon me if I didn’t research on 5w/20 but I’m assuming it’s a more thin viscosity than the 10w. Generally as my Subarus got up in miles I would use the heavy weight oil pretty much all year. If you’re engine is really tight and not so worn then Yes you do notice a little sluggishness if you use heavy oil in winter. But that was probably only one or two of the many Subarus we have run. We enjoyed many Subarus of the EA era. The EA82 dual range is still a favorite of mine. But I’ve put all that era behind me quite a while ago. I keep 70’s Subarus going. Good luck keeping the 80’s going ! Enjoy!