moosens

To remove whole assy.: Usually I have no problem placing one hand on each side of the window and while pressing together lift the end up and down untill you see an oportunity for the window gasket to release from its seat.I think you can get the bottom corner started and pop it out from the lower long edge then it'll fall downward real easy because the top is tapered smaller than the bottom,so gravity rules at that point. You can chose either side,just open a door and like I said place one hand on the inside and one on the outside......lift and seperate.

Ahhh,that's the little noise supressor thingie..... OK,have fun and if you can make it by be sure to have Andrew call ahead of time.Surprise visits don't always work out too good.

Let's hope you have better luck with it than Andrew did. Same here,like Jon,I have plenty of fenders in excellent shape,some NEW,some used.You'd be missing out if you didn't come by my place too,so try to make some time.Requires good weather for the full treatment,but I do have those EXC. Gen I fenders in the hallway storage unit,so even if it's raiing I can get to those.Oh,and there's about half a ton NEW OLD STOCK in there too. My stuff is in Milford CT just off I-95 exit 35.If you go to Jon's first,then Andrew's,you can hit my place on the way home. Depending on the time you come around NYC you might consider the reverse of that order. Be sure to listen for the traffic reports when coming up through NJ or eastern PA if you don't use the I-81 to I-84 method.(880 AM WCBS)

It should be noted that you missed the greatest place for all old Subaru parts in CT. I closed my workshop up last year.:-\

You've got a board member "junkyardGabe" working a yard in Freeport.There's 2 yards on the same road there.Alling Ridge Rd. I think it is,and it's right off of Rt.1 just east of the tourist trap-L.L.Bean,etc. The first yard has way cool old stuff,but minimal Subarus. Just down the road where Gabe works is more small cars,certainly more Subarus. Damned if I can remember the name of the yard. F & S in Waterbury CT but they're expensive and don't have much 70's/80's anymore. Right now,I mean NOW is a good time to consider coming down to "wagonsonly's" place.He's kind of forced to get rid of some EA81 and EA82 cars.He's in CT right at the Mass. line off I-91 Our man Charlie has a sort of personal yard with tons of EA82 stuff and some EA81. More pockets in CT but they are drying up fast.

Remember,your manual tells you: "DO NOT USE CHAMPION SPARK PLUGS ON SPFI ENGINES". Like the gang says,NGK all the way! I get a discount so I typically use dealer filters.Oil-been going back to Castrol as a rebelion.Used the expensive Pennsylvania oils,very good,never a problem.Just don't go cheap.Do NOT use Walmart oil,etc.....

double ditto Sometimes you don't have patience to work from the front or work around it.

Looks great,but I have never seen one of those on a '75-79 car or Gen I Brat up here.I always thought those were intended for the '80-84 and Gen II Brat and Hatch. Hope to see you at the Pine Barrens again in the next few months.

....but,if you use two different style cases you're going to run into needing to swap the air piping or at least the fittings for them. I'm pretty sure the change was in mid-'78.They went to a wider case with an in-block water exchange. How does the water passage look on all three engines?Are they the same?I'm guessing they're not.

Move this thread to the Historic Forum. Good snag,we'll help you get it in shape.

Different piping.And the newer style is a wider case. When I get some coffee in me I'll be able to fill in more detail,but you can use either.Just need to transfer air injection pipe fitting....and some small details.

I got mine with a long screwdriver.was able to move the latch and pop it open. Then I rigged up a wire similar to the bass string method.For now I open my hood from in front og the grill where my homemade cable comes out of the grill. When you get it open you should be able to find a new cable.I just got two on eBay recently.

Yup,you were right,it's 3.5 qts. US So,I did the tranny fluid thing,drove it a bit,drained it.WOW,took a lot more silt with it and ouch! :-\ some crunchy stuff today.Definitely most of a geartooth face is missing,maybe two,more...??? 5th gear doesn't want to engage,hurting synchro for sure. Otherwise not bad to drive at all.Going to go for another tranny though since there's two in the northeast,one not too far.

I'll look again,but I swear my DM said 2.7 for the S/R 5spd.Been wrong once or twice before,so we'll see. Yeah,maybe the tranny fluid thing,drive it around,then drain and refill.Didn't use the car tonight.Will make the New Years Eve food run and do it then. Happy New Year all you fellow Suba-cretins!

Drain result: Mostly a metalic silt at bottom of pan with a few fragments of gear teeth.No real chunk of tooth.Motly the fragments looked like shavings off the gear teeth.Motor oil I used as gearbox lube to get home was quite blackened :-\ .Magnet on the drain plug held mostly silt,a pinch of metal "hairs",and a couple of shavings.Again,no real chuncks. Added a full 3qts. of 80W90 and the reading still looked on the low side.Going to make a little run tonight and check it again,probably in the morning.Driver's manual said it should take 2.7 qts. ....hmmmm. Going to do another drain.I just don't feel that great about it although it sounds much better and behaves very well. Only problem: Not catching 5th cleanly or sometimes just not at all and I throw it back into 4th in frustration and fear of it grenading.I managed to get 5th on the long ride home with the motor oil in the gearbox.Seemed to get worse after the drain/refill with the proper gear oil. Could I have slightly bent the shifter fork when I was struggling with it while the shifter was working loose all that time?Or do you think it's more likely the 5th gear synchro worn too much to help?

YES!! Thanks guys!! Great advice. 1st to Reverse,seemed to loosen it up. Drove it home about 80 miles on motor oil.Going to drain,refill,check the fragments,etc.

That you should wait,for sure. That you might find yourself needing to carry insurance if you're going to be a subcontractor. That this maybe belongs in another Forum. Good luck.

Not a cable,the hard linkage where there's a large loop at the end,has bushings,nut on the end of the link rod secures it all to the tranny. I really think it's because 2 gears got selected at once.We'll see.We're definitely trying to break it loose first before doing any take down.Naturally,I'll be draining the chips,etc.....but thanks for making sure. You know,it;s these 2 1/2 year projects with interuptions that really suck.I should have been all over the underside making sure everything was snug,etc. I'm guessing I barely toqued the nut on by hand just to get it towed from the old workshop and just neglected to get back under there.I don't know....but we'll find out if she'll break loose soon.Going to be a fun day,I'm sure.:-\

Front wheels won't rotate at all right now.:-\

THIS IS ABOUT A TRANNY THAT LOCKED UP,NOT A Locking diff.... That's a single range EA82T with the pushbutton atop the shifter. Tranny locked up like you'd see in a cartoon.1/8+ inch of rubber for about 40 ft. Shifter linkage was loose.Had been waiting for AAA,got pissed and tried to take off on my own after hooking the link over without the bushing and lock nut.I was foolish,I know,but I'd driven about 60+ miles already and only had a few miles to go,and was pissed at AAA for making me sit for 1 1/2 hours and watching the sun go lower and lower. So,it seems there may have been two gears selected at once. There's an outside chance that it was so low on gear oil that it may have seized but there wasn't any high pitched squealing beforehand.The level was very low,but I've driven my '78 quite low before too. Car was going forward.I had just shifted from 2nd to 3rd,let the clutch out and maybe got a few feet and BAM! I must have lost the nut and shifter link bushing just down the road from where I pulled over to drain some coffee.Went to put it in reverse and the shifter came loose.That was the begining of it all. Good thing I had that EJ22 in the cargo area well lashed down.Amen!That literally WAS my Christmas present.Also lucky that it locked up on a country backroad in eastern CT and not down here in the rat race.Double AMEN!!More hair on my body now,for sure.Hope it never happens to one of you folks. OK,I pulled you this far.Now,what do you think about being able to break it loose and it still being good?

Yes,I've seen the gear only available,in metal.

No sweat,like I said,it's the installer's technique that makes or breaks it.Can only be recommended if the installer is doing them correctly. South FL and SW CT,same crowd,too much money,too much attitude,too litlle morals,but they've got the "right" car,clothes,etc. :-\

ZEIBART CAN INDEED BE A GOOD THING TO HAVE. There's your proof right there. It's all about the application and the man or monkey doing it.If drainholes are left tight or clogged your car got screwed.If it was done right it's still around after a full life in Connecticut or some other rust zone location. For those assuming why the fenders were replaced it's because all Subarus got a foam strip to deaden vibration/squeaks and acted as a sponge.A completely natural rust spot even in non rust zones.Otherwise my car is mighty solid with one hole begining in the passenger side rocker just rear of the front wheel,as usual.I have a rocker section to use thanks to Corky. It'll be interesting doing the restoration on this car with the thick application of the Zeibart.This application seems more like Vulcanized rubber with a good thickness to it.Others I've seen are very weak like the product was cut with alcohol or something.Those weak ones dry and flake.Mine hasn't in nearly 30 years. One yes vote for a properly applied Zeibart job on solid metal.

Find the metal upgrade if you can,not another plastic gear.Good luck.

Yeah,right around $5k for that "ugly" car.