moosens

Nice steering wheel too.

WOW THat's what I want!!!! Only drop it into a late 70's Coupe...or wagon,more likely.

So now you'll be shredding sitting down. That kite surfing stuff,well,I don't know if I should be jealous/envious or what...I mean I sure can relate,and I can absolutely feel myself doing it when I watch,but I'm probably never going to try it unless somebody lends me their rig and gives me good hooch first. Just kidding,I'd do it sober,youbetcha! No board right now but I sure wasn't going to give up my rigs.All I need is my next stick and back on a plane. Making the time for OBX,that's my dilema.Perhaps if we combo'd up vacation time with our friends then we'd not have to go visit them inland (phooey!!!) and all be together where I'm in my element....the shore!OBX!!!Hope to see you around. Phil, There's not much logging going on these days at the Barrens that I know of.I went at least two times last year,or was it three?I did a quicky on my way back from MD as well as two regular meets.We camp sometimes over at the Batso area.We've run into Enduro M/C events and a mega horse riding event,but no loggers so far.They probably aren't working on the weekends.My one weekday visit was quick but I did go all the way through from the ranger station at Atsion (where we start from on our meets) to the "village" on the other side.Was quiet,very quite. Check the Meet/Greet forum for a PB meet this spring,if not sooner. Keep healthy and we'll all see each other in the spring. Carlisle is going to be a tough one again for me.Looking like my cousin's wedding on Saturday,but I'll most likely go down for Sunday if that's the case.

Corky is right about the taxes,displacement,Italy,etc.... but i love my 1600's power in my 4WD wagon.It's pretty remarkable.I know they're dogs in automatics.Of course my car has only 86k on it. Now if this EA71 came fuel injected I'd be checking shipping.....and pounding my head thereafter. Europeans don't get what we do,for the most part.And they get nifty little engines like 1300's and 1500's,etc.We should have those cars here too.

motor mounts tranny mounts oil pump gaskets,seals (for pump rebuild and install) exhaust studs and nuts accesory belts valve cover gaskets

Todd,can I get one of those stickers?? Call me sometime soon,Friday night or Saturday.Thanks Hats off to Brian for this awsome offer!!! I'm pretty hooked up with manuals,but the one I just lost of eBay would be cool.I'm looking for the '77 issues that apply to the early '78's.

Yup,there's a few but we're a rough breed to catch. Sometimes we do the NJ Pine Barrens for trail riding.Some water action if you want it but nothing scary,usulally. We've been looking for trails to use in western NE,eastern NY.

You might be able to score some axles and have the shipped to the mechanic,and forget just repacking. When the car is tuned up properly the oil light won't go on,or shouldn't.Probably needs a little tweeking,etc. Warm it up,drive normal till it's warm,then wind it out on the highway.I'm guessing it'll idle a lot better with the oil light out when you hit the stop at the exit. 400 miles you said,right? Does the heat work?Might want to make sure.Those cars weren't as windproof as later Subies.Plus the heater core could be clogged.Better to know now.Maybe think about having the mechanic install a T fitting for flushing.He can do the flush and you can easily do it after that as needed. Good luck

Any word on the manufacturer? Those centercaps are so period! Cars like the Capri,countless English cars,some other Euro's,etc. all came with some similar centercaps back from the mid 60's through the early 70's Mostly of the sport models but the trend even went out to family sedans,etc.

Well Darren,we've got a little problem here on the east coast.The people mostly suck.That's not to offend our people here on the USMB but Subaru owners on this coast could give a rat's tail about meeting each other and many could care less about keeping their car on the road more than 5 years anyways. Actually,a small group gets together up this way at least a couple of times a year.We usually go to the NJ Pine Barrens for trail riding at least once,and maybe a party/get together for a cause here or there.And we've recently gathered at Carlisle PA,where they host mega national car shows.We meet there,or try to,the third weekend of May every year for the Import/Kit-Repli Car Show.Every year it's the third weekend of May. We've kicked around a meet at OBX,which I feel is the true,most perfect place to get folks from Maine to Florida to attempt to make.It's a truely beautiful place,most of us on the east coast have been there or at least know of it's natural beauty and of course....DRIVING ON THE BEACH!!!! I'm a surfcaster and windsurfer when I can make some time.I'd love to be back at OBX. Also,there's the occasional yard run,but you running newer vehicles probably wouldn't be interested....mostly up in PA for that.

OK.let me contact the mud man and see where we are.

Subaru wire wheels from the 70's....not your grandad's E series Jaguar. Of all the early mag wheels I'd say these must be the most rare.Any opinions on that? With all the big money around here you'd think all Subarus had them in lower Fairfield County.But I really can't recall any of our Subarus ever having them.Or seeing them on the road. I'd pay a good $150+ for a set if they were restorable,and had the center caps.

Boone and places around the western hills,that's the part of NC still holding a few oldies.Forget about the rest of the state.You'd be real lucky to find one there.I did see a running '76 near Winston Salem back a few years.

Tailgatewagon also mentioned he might be making an eastward trek in February....although that thought scares me a little. My '73 came across the top of the country last winter and I was glued to the weather channel and the computer.But Pat (NorthWet) is THE MAN and delivered in grand fashion!! It got here with 12 states worth of red clay and road sand/salt but man am I happy. If a second board member brought a second fairly rustfree vehicle across the country I'd surely bless the day the USMB was created Oh man,I just remembered I still have to send Pat his ratchet set!!

Tough call to make right now.I'd like to see pics of it and see what Mudrat can do for me for starters. For sure Russ I'll toss you something for it,and not just like $50 either.Let me see what it looks like and consider all the options.Shippers are real pricey when they have to go through NYC or even anywhere around it.Jon,you're probably a good $200 cheaper,I'm guessing,so maybe if we do this together we'll have it go to your place.....all in time.Let's see what Mudrat says,after Russ gives an OK. I'm certainly not sore about any dealings anywhere on this board,so don't anyone fret that I'm upset about anything related to this post thread. That means you too,Russ,I'm not barking here,just checking to see if we can still make things happen. Cheers!

Russ,there's big difference between: ....and FREE. I sure wish I'd known that this time around.We disconnected our deal twice.Once because you decided you might try to keep it and then again when I recently backed out after learning you were looking for (above quote).I'd offered to be sure to toss you something for it.I just got scared off by the $$ figure. So everyone is on the same page....we did talk about this car a few months back,right?I've heard plenty for supposedly cutting in on deals.Still yet to see proof of it,but there's been plenty said. I dropped talking to Mudrat about this,but I can probably get him to grab it like we originally planned. My phone is not with me tonight so I can't call you and it'd do no good to call me.Let me know what's up and if I should call John or what.Thanks

Yes,Congrats!! Don't fret! For one thing there's several of us well experienced with the 1400 engine you have. THe first 1400's were VERY prone to headgasket failure and warped heads.The revised edition which I believe you have is more reliable but still not what the 1600 is. The 1300 was a total workhorse and I believe was called the best engine displacement/config for fuel efficiency by some well known brainiac I can't recall right now.The 1400 was punched out and many believe the material removed was enough to cause the excess heat and pressure on the cylinder sleeve,which loosened it and made it slop around and chew up headgaskets and cause warpage. Then they decided it was time for the US market to get automatics and very soon,4WD,so they revised the 1400 to the bored,2 port exhaust version which carried on,and on,and on......well,that reason and the fact that they were replacing heads and gaskets faster than ....... Good luck,hang in there.The price you paid really wasn't bad at all. I sold a 37k '76 sedan for $2,000 and it's now sitting in Sweden,so there's certain folks who'll go all out for these things.Just have to wait it out sometimes.But,I really hope you never have to sell it. Email me as you need to. Paul

I would like to add that Timeserts are excellent for the person who expects to take their Y-pipe down at least one more time or more in the future. The Timesert is a cylinder threaded on both the inner and outer sides so you can always take your bolt out and re-insert it without the coil coming out with it.Timeserts go in the same way a heli coil does and lock into a chamfer.Pricey but worth it to some folks.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27537&highlight=EA82+Heater+core And incase the link goes dry: As a suggestion I think it's a good idea to get a new core.I went with a used one but I don't mind so much on this particular car. I also think it's a good idea if possible,to get a parts car or remove a dash at a junkyard and remove the heater box unit.You can then re-dress the box with fresh foam and clean it out nicely.This will make the swap a good fifteen to thirty minutes shorter.And you can install your new core in it as well.Total swap time should be around 4-6 hours tops.You might beat that by a good hour with proper preperation. Another thing to consider is getting new dashboard lightbulb and resolve any instrument lighting issues.Don't forget the ashtray bulb.Good time to check your clock or repair it. Disconnect battery ground,remove the loop installed to bypass the heater when it leaked like a puppy all over the carpet.Remove the gasket plate that the heater core inlet and outlet tubes pass through as they go through the firewall.Good idea to disconnect the speedometer cable from the tranny too.Give some slack towards the dash.Quick,close the hood and get in the car it's starting to snow Fortunately,you already removed the front seats and you're not considerd tall by any means.Remove center consoles from underdash to emergency brake/center compartment piece.It's ok to leave the radio in but you can take some weight off the dash if you take it out now.Disconnect antenea wire at shoulder of transmission hump up by the driver's feet.You'll also want to disconnect the cable that goes to the heater box.And there's a vacuum hose to pull off of the heaterbox as well,all on the driver's side right near each other. Remove the underside dash panels.I remove the glovebox at this point with just one screw at the hinge base and slide it towards the other hinge to remove.On the passenger side you only need to disconnect the connectors by the door and if you're lucky or skillfull maybe at this point you can get the vacuum tube as well,but if not you'll get it when the dash begins to come off.All connectors on this side are foolproof.Good luck! Over of the driver's side it's a jungle but nothing you can't handle.Remove the fusebox with three screws and let it hang.The only things to disconnect are what goes through the firewall.Disconnect the harness under the steering wheel.Then drop the computer by loosening the three nuts and sliding it towards the rear of the car.Disconnect it and tuck it away.Drop the steering wheel with 2 bolts.The wheel should be free to drop. There's a chance you may have to disconnect a cruise control processor. Dashboard fastners are 10mm.You'll see three covers to remove across the top.There's also a cover on each end on the front of the dash facing the seats. I was able to raise the dash and rest it diagonally using the steering wheel as a rest,driver's side of dash forward,pass. side to rear.That gave me enoug room to get the heater unit out.But first you need to disconnect the ductwork.Very easy,just squeeze the band clip,you'll see.Leave the rear section right there on the duct and just lift and remove the front part of the band clip.Unbolt the heaterbox at top.Be sure to have the center console brackets removed for ease and safety.Besides,there's a ground wire off the box there.You can slice the carpet in the center to make it a little easier to remove.The ducts going to the rear seats need to be bent to allow the heaterbox outlets to be free.Just bend the ducts gently,trying not to crease them severely.Remove the heaterbox tipping the top slightly downward toward the rear of the car as you slide the unit rearward.I found it easy to do this from the passenger side but once it was off the mount I went around the driver's side to get it free from the car since the ductwork on the other side makes it hard with the dash resting just above. Now it was time to remove the core from the box.I cleaned the box up with some cleaner and replaced the foam with some seriously dense foam that was already sticky-backed.Replace core,ready to head for home. Insert the box making the tubes go through the firewall,get it in place,bolt it up with the top 10mm inside the car.Go outside and install the gasketplate,and hoses. Put the dash back and remember to install the vacuum hose on the passenger side,make sure the speedometer is in(you'd be smart to remove it from the tranny and give some slack before taking the dash out,see above).Hook up the cable for the heater control,the vacuum and the antenea all right near each other. Driver's side,connect the jungle being careful and hopefully not colorblind.The connectors mostly all fit only where they belong with each other.If the car doesn't start,check the high beam lever.It'll engage the starter if the connectors are mixed up.Those two are the same so maybe mark them beforehand. I will proofread this a little later and add to it,have to go. OK,edited today 12/29/04,looks good to me at a quick glance.Let me know if there's anything to add,delete,or alter.

Rotisserie group buy!!!!!!...or lease. Mary's ready now.I'll be ready next year.Who else wants to do their car right and EASY!!! It's cheaper than you think and most average garages can fit it.

This is not some way of making your life difficult. The fact is that we set this forum up with certain parameter/guidelines. Mary,I left your interior restoration post here because it'll give some great info to those restoring gen I cars as well as the gen II you posted.So relax,as far as I'm concerned it can stay.There's other moderators here,so not every action can be caused by myself. If your post got moved by any moderator it's because the post simply belongs elsewhere. Thanks for your understanding. Mod X

Good going,thanks!

Me too with my EA81 auto. It can be done,and you should expect that sort of mileage with the conversion. Right on Bucky!!!!!!!!!

Camera currently having difficulties.Need a favor from Leaking Oil,Blue Baja,hocrest,etc. whoever might have a pictures of my white touring wagon.I'd like as many pics as you have of it that show the body's condition.Need them for my post in the marketplace.Thanks:) Where's those Pine Barrens Meet pics?

Hey,isn't there a young lady who's dad had a dealship,etc.....with a load of ff1 stuff in NZ or Aussyland? I think Kevin knows her.