moosens

Running well ! Thanks for all the assistance. Better report after some miles.

Oh that would be great idea if it weren’t for the dealers and yards being difficult and not wanting much to do with 20 year old cars. Northeast is a tricky spot that way. I have to drive about 40 minutes to get to a yard I can walk around. But thanks Larry. And it’s about 30 min to the red sedan. All ok for now. Started right up!

History repeats , thanks guys ! And the ground wire/cable from the firewall that attaches to the steel cover over the fuel injectors or to the block ? I have that one on the block now but it doesn’t look right and I think a small bracket goes where I current have that cable landing. When I can I take pictures of the 2003 sedan sitting at my dads. But that car is in process of a sale and has to sit there for now. Wish I could drive it down to where I’m working and have it for reference. The EA’s and the early EJ22 I know very well. This gen is new to me. Still finding my way with the later model peripherals. Air boxes that need supports , stuff like that I just need to be more contemporary with. Where each bracket goes. Never had these before.

Thanks ! I’m ok for living space. In fact it’s also part of the issue. We own a condo unit in a high rise so I have no garage , attic , driveway , basement, etc. and pay for storage. Storage just shot up $ ! But this is my mom’s side , her parents house. Many great memories. And it looks like I’ll be the last one of the family to make use of the property. Now I just need a lower radiator hose and to button up a few things. The ground cable that comes from the battery and goes to the starter and has that little metal locator bracket - does that bolt in with the starter top bolt , bottom bolt , or ? Historically they’re in the starter with the upper bolt, my old brain believes.

No , I had to stop in for a genuine over the counter , old fashioned transaction like buying a sandwich. I was rushing around and knew I’d be getting screwed a little on the price but threw in the towel. Just some bits. My online orders were significant, and I received their healthy discount whatever it is. I don’t have an actual number but it’s like John or Anthony were taking care of me. And yes KYB is really the way to go. You won’t like what the cheap top mounts look like after like 6 mos. Learned the hard way. Spend wisely my friend ! Ciao

They generally don’t give you quality parts in those kitted units. I’d be concerned that you’d be getting a cheaper top mount among other parts and that it’ll show mighty ugly in short order. Subafreak has done suspension for me in front of my eyes and to me it’s not a whole lot of extra labor to use the shop’s spring compressor and turn a wrench or two. Sidenote - have shopped at Perkins both online and over counter lately. The young fellow seems to have a better attitude these days and is rather courteous and helpful. Like been thrown in the deep end but he’s treading water well. The counter transaction was not a very healthy discount but at least he offered a little break. Good luck with it.

Pics purge. Let me brother do the PCV placement. Fresh 1” hose , RTV and clamp as per Rick’s direction. My brother is a former Subaru tech from around 1978-82 or so. He questioned most everything about it. But after review of GD’s post and the realization that the PCV was in the block and not the intake it made sense to him. But that makes him a great tech. See ya soon. Ciao!

Engine in. Called an ally in my brother so it was a two man army for a couple hours or so. And now back to one man army time. Need to let the RTV cure until tomorrow to be smart. So it’ll crank it over tomorrow sometime. Just about to throw the accessories back on and general button up , accelerator cables , radiator , you know how it goes. Enjoy some pics and I’ll enjoy my eased anxiety. Story about using the property I’m in to follow. Long story short I was presented with a deadline that I originally had no idea of. But anyways , looking good and now there shouldn’t be any family issues as well. A glorious moment !!! Long may it reign.

Welcome and enjoy. You plan on heading to that private track east of Tucson ? Just curious. 4k ?? Wow! Guessing that was a tow behind vehicle with an RV Would like to hear why such low miles. Enjoy !

Never mind , it’s from the plastic air box. Thanks Subafreak!

Still looking for help on that connector I can’t find a home for.

Everybody like pictures

Local dealer had the pcv but not the hose. I need to get this car running and moved so I’ll likely use my existing one which isn’t bad. What’s the deal with there being what looks like a second pcv at the top into the intake ? I haven’t removed it to inspect so I’m guessing. Barely did anything today but put the knock sensor in.

Report of a victory at storage. the one man army rolls on !! knock sensor found. cheers!

Thanks again. Now to rediscover that knock sensor. As of this moment I’ve gone through what I’m sure is all of the spares off the old engine and parts car and can’t locate the little bugger. Guessing that if they’re both just two wires I’ll be splicing. And then need to find out why I have an lonely connector. I know the one in front is foe the oil pump. But that one out back has me miffed at the moment. Spending more time at storage digging through parts I should have still sitting around the garage. This false call for quick vacate really screwed me up now. This engine should be back in and running today. Instead I’m wasting about two hours at least searching for a part I could probably splice the other into. Always something.

“You will also have to install the block mounted PCV valve into the 00/01 engine's vent hose. I just round off the edges of the hex on the 03 style PCV valve (get a new one from Subaru), and RTV/clamp it into the vent hose (get a new one of those also) from the block breather port. “ Yeah , I knew you said this but when the time came .... Will send that sucker into its new home next round.

The port I need to fit the existing pcv into

Port on the 2000 block is larger ID and apparently they don’t thread in and are a pressed fit so not able to just swap housings best I can tell.

Connector/whip I can’t seem to locate it’s destination

Drill and tap went easy to say the least. Makita cordless 18v , and large vice grips. Feels good , no rattle , no play. Fed the tube as I cranked it in gently. Had the top loose until I had the bottom well in its way to seated. Of course the test of the work is yet to come. Didn’t use any thread seal. If you think that’s a big mistake let me know before I finish and drop the engine back in, please. They didn’t use anything from the factory best I can see. Now we have a couple or so minor issues. Knock sensor connector is different. And I boxed up all the spares because I was being rushed. Like 2hrs later after boxing I was told I had more time. Grrrr But I’ll dig out the old one and that should take care of that one. Next is another connector/whip which seems to have no destination. So what was it the 2000 had that the 03 didn’t ? Or are my eyes or mind failing me again ? Check the pic I’ll be adding. And then the hose at the rear. Have to guess that’s a smallish PCV but the 2000 block I’m using has a larger port there and is not threaded best I can see. I attempted to remove the one from the outgoing ‘03 block but it seems to only turn but not back out so I’m assuming that’s a press fit. If they backed out I could just swap the housings. See other pics. Edit - finally recalled GD’s early post. See below. Easy enough way around this issue. Just not a lot of time to work today either. Wish I had a full day to just knock this out. Waaaagh.

Yeah I have tapped without a tap wrench. So it shall be again it seems. One last shot locally at a plumbing supply.

Thanks again. Stupid question maybe but I have to ask based on a Craigslist posting. Guy says he couldn’t use an automatic engine in his manual Forester I think it was. Maybe 98-99 era ? Is that a reality? Old school it’s just swap bell housings and good to go. This current situation made me think of that posting and unnerved me a bit. Should be back at it later Wednesday and hopefully drill successfully and tap the same. Here’s how life works sometimes. So I found tap wrenches , two of the longer handle type and one smaller T type. Well don’t ya know the largest one I had was still too small. But I’ll manage. Can’t locate just a tap wrench local without buying a kit.

Using my pen size screwdriver I don’t feel anything as an obstruction until about 2” and I want to say the drilled hole ends just a 1/4” before that part I’m bumping into. Without looking I’m guessing a valve guide ?? Anyways , when I drill the other head can I count on that same length of casting material in that area ? So I’m holding off drilling in a full 2” for now , even with the pilot drill.

Began drilling with a pilot drill , went in past my tape mark because I didn’t see any cavity/orifice yet. As it turns out the drill I brought with me is 3/8 chuck and need a 1/2 chuck. So at rest for another night. Different heads from the foundry , slight changes in various locations but effectively the same functions. I’ll try to post the differences in pics when I have time but probably nobody cares anyways....but my point is , could these revised or new editions have Less outer casting material there than the older gen ? Otherwise I made progress in other directions. 2003 below 2000 below