moosens

Gotten more quiet here. Welcome back !

Key is likely shot. Or like Larry mentioned. Ours did the same thing with the covers. Scrap the mechanic. Keep the car.

I’m sure you don’t need help but I can’t help myself spouting off what looks like future money or huge smile when you come to need that actual part. Paid $300 - worth it. I see: taillight(s) , bed trim , windshield - Theres you’re $300 right there. Enjoy !

Shelf stock !

Among many questions I have , are you sure you’d rather have the older carb years instead of getting the same body with SPFI ? I’ve bought back cars from these situations for like $150. Maybe let them total it but retain it , don’t let them take it. There’s a bottom line value they have to give you , I’m sure you’re aware. Back in the day it really worked out well for me. I wish you the best. From what I see you’d do yourself better to just upgrade and still enjoy that body style with a bit more reliability from the fuel injection. A dual range five speed 1988 or 89 would be my preference. Best of luck !

Yeah I have one or more of those hanging around. Came with a parts car. Always been a 1/4 crank in after hand seating firmly. I don’t get stupid with it but I go by what we were taught. I like the feel of a wrench on the filter over my hands so I’ll likely keep going that route.

Agreed Doc ! I did give a fair look around and believe what I saw was indeed the oil pan and not a transmission drain. It spouts towards the drivers side. Still haven’t gotten back under there. Playing along with weather and sleep catch up. But the filter issue. I figured I’ll be needing one of those cap style wrenches and my ratchet with an extension. Thanks Larry. Won’t be trashing my old oil filter wrenches though. 1600’s and 2.2’s as long as I can keep them going.

No cover. The oil filter is recessed up between sections of Y pipe and whatever I haven’t discovers yet. This is an N/A car. But where they stuck the filter is blocked by pipes. Maybe I caved in too quick. It was hot and my main job had been accomplished. But I threw my ground cover down and laid under there , worked my way as deep as I could without the car being raised. I can see the oil pan and it’s drain plug. That’s all weirdly placed as well to an old schooler but easy enough. Is what it is. It’s this filter that’s inaccessible from first approach.

And what do you folks do when changing the oil and filter? Putting off any more work for today. But hoping to do the oil tomorrow or soon after. Can’t see the stinkin filter but I can feel that it’s the short type which I have plenty of. So will I not be able to get my old school oil filter wrench up there? I don’t see any easy access. And of course the next question would be what are you using not only to remove but to tighten up the new one ? We can all extract a filter using many crude methods. I don’t need a lesson in that. Thanks.

So you know , this is what happens. And the part is around $34 or so. You’ll get the entire handle as you see the old one presented here with all its assembly.

Some info for the next guys or gals. Exterior handle is broken. Was able to remove door card with door still locked shut. Probably did NOT have to take the skin off since I found that you can get the lock to unlatch using a long screwdriver. Easier from the door inner side but also can be had creatively from the window slot. Look for the green link retainer. I did not take the time to see if I could have rigged it so at least the interior handle would open the door. I’m assuming the lock mechanism needs to be seated in its proper location before the interior handle link can also function. Not the best time for me to be working on this. Had to throw it all back together without fixing the handle. Was going to try to use an epoxy but didn’t have any handy. Besides , it really needs a new handle. I only wanted to try to epoxy it and see if it would work even short term while I order the new handle. To be continued.

Thanks again. Whichever slimy stuff they used last looks to be a plenty so I left it as they passed it to me and sliding well. Next time around I’ll address the whole shebang. Sooner or later I’ll get this car up to Subafreak and give consideration to all things suspension. I just won’t rally the beast until ... ok never.

Been meaning to present this to the great folks here. Recent addition and my friend the previous owner has no idea what happened. His lovey daughter had the use of the car for a lengthy period before our acquisition. I’m confident that once I remove the inner panel I’ll be able to unlatch it and likely spot the cause. But as it sits with the seat in place is it possible to remove the door card ? Another issue I know about but neglected to even give much of a glance at today as the sun baked me for a brake job. Figured there’s a chance somebody could give me a head start before I get time with that car again.

Should have taken pics but should that rear stabilizer link look kind of diagonal instead of more 90 degree vertical ? Link looked weak. Or the bushings of course.

Rear brakes just a bit different in the caliper retention method , and the extension needed to make the pass through for the caliper mounting bracket removal for the rotor swap. Ok yes I’m getting old but man those pads get more and more uhhh tricky to get into their places. Yes I used genuine parts all around. Just an old man rant. Job done , no noise, stops we’ll. But I can see or feel that I’ll be doing the fronts too. And for those keeping score I only did the rear side that was making fatal noises. It’s hot and I’m working with a limited window of opportunity. Lucky me.

Thanks for your time !

Old school folks like myself were taught to use a light weight oil on the winter and heavy in the summer. Back then 1970’s Subarus , we were generally sold on Castrol. And a 10w/40 or as time drove forward more of the market dictated 5w/30. Until recently as many of you old guys know you could easily score 20w oils for summer. Not so easy anymore. So now come the questions. Castrol in your favor or Amsoil (yet to use) or ? The Castrol slogan “engineered for small cars engine” kind of hooked us good. At what point do these modern engines no longer require or feel groovy on varied oils per season ? I’m leaving the EJ22 era now and we’ll be running 06 and 03/04 Legacys going forward. Just use what they say and don’t try to be a hero ? That’s it for the moment. Thanks for your opinions or advice.

Roadster I presume.

And there will be no alignment issues. If you had concerns.

I think you need the small bracket with the newer style to adapt to the older. Give it a good look over.

Danny K from NC drove up and bought a huge amount , pretty much the majority for sure of my NOS and used parts. I might still have one for you in my stash but haven’t had time to play with the parts I’m keeping yet. The storage is coming along but just that super busy time of year. Next chance I get I’ll do a quick search in the most likely boxes. As always it’s good to see you around again. cheers!

Popular again , but maybe not so. As notated the prop shafts do have a center bearing so two pieced. I would suspect these are remnants from the 80’s cars GL DL Loyale action. I can recall ugliness with many of those carrier bearings. Rotted floor/unibody caused one side of the bracket to weaken and mmmm trouble. Don’t have pics. Shame on me. They’re free to a good home.

How about those reverse lights ? I see on my friend’s ‘05 wagon that their lamps take on water. Silicone caulk ?

And brus brother , you sold off all your goodies for these wagons , eh ? I think we have a color matched cargo mat in the back and full top coverage on the cargo area.

Thanks everybody. Wife likes it and the A/C works. See you back when the questions arise.