moosens

What do you mean enters ? I’ve been told I’m in the space age since around high school.....

And please also know that we are kind of miffed on all the newer controls and features. Yes there is an owners manual and we will be reviewing soon. Theres also two key/alarm fobs and one needs a battery. Have to set up Bluetooth too. It’s got an Alpine stereo. Again , much for us old folks to discover.

We just took on a 2006 Outback. We’re older and our cars are always older too. So that’s why we have little clue as to what to expect from these “newer” cars. No real problems to report at this time. But we’ve only had it for less than 24 hours as of this post. From what I see it’s a single cam 2.5 You guys know this stuff - what’s that engine designation ? EJ25ZRXFUTVAK ????? Thanks for any advice and knowledge. Cheers!

Heck with Subarus , get back out there on the water ! I see you’re a biologist. And on a work boat. I’m a Shellfishing nut myself. Just never enough time with good tides. I’m a shore goer , no boat. Enjoy !!

Yeah as mentioned carrier bearing. You’ve been under that car a lot. I’m guessing you’d have noticed that by now but if there is one , check it. Used to be CT Driveshaft and I’d see their van everywhere!!! Quick search and I’m not sure about these places now but maybe the one in East Hartford is the original. Curious which yard you go to , and which ones you’d feel are worth investigating. I pretty much gave up on most of that these past couple of decades. Johnny’s in Thomaston was a good place you could roam.

Sorry about your dad. Spray some penetrant into that sliding bushing until it works free. Then re-grease it. Maybe take a few minutes to review some YouTube videos but of course we’ll help from here too. You want those calipers to slide freely. And the pads to slide freely too. Given the vehicle’s age and where you’re at right now I suggest getting new bearings , the ones set into the housing already , and of course fresh brakes. Thrifty guys like me will save the pads you have that don’t look so bad. As long as the wear isn’t drastically angled (pad surface beveled) you can keep those handy just in case. And you can square them up quickly and safely if they’re a little off. You can work that bushing free in many ways but I’m sure putting it in a vice is a very good idea. No heat needed yet. And of course be considerate to the rubber boots or be prepared to replace them.

And you don’t need to do the full deal to just clean and adjust the float. Not sure how deep you’ve gone before but it’s easily manageable with the usual patience required.

Have you ever taken the carb off and soaked it , refreshed it with a kit ? Float needle could be an issue here. My opinion. as you mention , the valve that fills the float bowl.

Holy resurrection!! Skip , we miss you buddy! RIP I would say this is for N/A and not the turbo - my opinion.

I love reading posts like that last one. 50 years experience! Thanks for sharing your knowledge here. Folks keeping these car will need this info down the line for sure.

Throw out bearing is p-n 30502KA000 - that was hand written above the crossed out original p-n which looks like it may have been 03151 4700 The little springs if you need them (2) are 83173 8620 And the big one .... drum roll please ....clutch disk is 43012 7030 - also hand written over old number which had the last four digits as 7011 it looks like.

Debated use of oil pan gasket. Some just use Fuji-Bond - which is cheapest at your Nissan dealer. Oil pan gasket p-n 41160 7000 should you choose to.

Excellent follow ups after my previous post. All stuff my feeble mind dropped. And like Benny mentioned since you have it out , drop the oil pan and be careful with that sump stem. It’ll crack if you wrestle it too much. Can tap it downward as I recall. Use wood or plastic as your drift/punch if possible. Replace O-ring on top of stem part no. 8069 14020 Rear of crank has an O-ring too. P/N 41396 7000 Front main is 8067 38070 for the 1800. 38x59x9 is the size.

Yeah , that sounds nice. And our man on the east coast did just that and also the go-kart to match. Doug in NH. Same feelings about the two tone and connotations. It’s sounds pretty cool though , the way you laid it out. I’d try it in a photo program first though.

Unquestionably replace the rear main seal. I can’t recall the pilot bearing but be sure that’s a fresh one. Fresh pressure plate and cleaned up flywheel.

Friendly reminder. Easy to reach like Rockaway Beach. Seriously , others have made the drive. Give it some consideration while there may still be parts you’d want/need but would rather see in person before buying , or would rather not pay outrageous shipping for. Hope you are all well and hope the fear hasn’t prevented you from coming here. All healthy , no issues within my family for virus etc. Just a few seconds off exit 35 of I-95 in Milford CT. Whats left ?? Top of my head ramble list ...fenders stage one and two both sides quantities vary. Engines EA71 first and second editions one complete , one a longblock ATK rebuild in crate for dealers , boxes of small item New Old Stock genuine factory parts , some wagon rear bench seats, front valance Brat and 4WD wagon , 4WD transmissions gen one Brat and wagon , a five speed FWD transmission , front A bar I think one is gen one and maybe even stage one , and the other is either gen two or late gen one. Also starters, alternators, new side molding , some new bumpers , more. Still willing to make a sweet deal on a big lot. Hope to see you soon.

Good question , how much different would they be in the 80’s or even 90’s ? I may actually have that in new old stock but to dig it out would be a chore. And I should have one on a tranny. I have at least a couple of the single range on demand from 75-79 and gen one Brat. I should be back at storage this weekend. If you can’t find one let me know.

And the coolant sitting in the exhaust is going to vaporize immediately. As above I’d just replace the intake gaskets and if FI that same mentioned O ring. At this cars age if you’ve never replaced the intake manifold gaskets it’s about time you did. Such a nice moment when you’ve done the intake , start it up , and no more problem. Worth the try. After a compression test. Hope your camper episode ends well. Cheers !

I just had my hands on a fist full of head bolts and lifter rods. Next time I’m at storage I’m pretty sure I set them in a spot I can easily see them. Let me know if you need any. These should be from an early EA71 1600 I will check length etc as I get back to them. I was in a rush and saw them as I was needing to be wrapping up. But they’re there if you need some.

Cool , thanks. Notice the superseded part number. 15 years ago , seems like no freakin way that long , but so goes life.

Ok pardon my eyes. I zoomed in and they are both with inner and outer flanges.

I would have to say that the early version 7231 46000 is the type which can be placed on the wheel while wheel is mounted. And the other , 23146 GA030 has flanges on both inner and outer edges so it must be placed in the wheel before mounting.

Some basic centercap noise from the parts manuals. 1978 and previous get a bolt on cap. Some more heavy and sturdy than others. 1979 you get the smoothie as I call it with NO bolt but also NO seating ring. At storage I have the 1980 and 81 parts manuals but here I have an 82 and it shows two styles for each the steel and the flat spoke wheels. Also does NOT show a ring. My 1985 manual for the Loyale body has the ring. It’s p/n 23146 GA030. And that is for the flat spoked wheel. And then within a manual for the Brat and 2dr from 1985-88 that ring is part number 7231 46000 which is an older p/n The two are obviously different style when viewed. Hope that info helps someone.

If my brain can remember I’ll look in the parts manuals I have and figure that out. Assuming someone else doesn’t chime in with the answer. My first guess would be the later Loyale style may have changed. Did you own one of those too?

That’s the right side of the car. Never mind looking at it from any other angle. When describing issues and locations you should refer to it as you drive it. You don’t turn left if you turn towards the radiator bleeder screw. You say you want to do it right then get a radiator and new hoses. You won’t be able to service your existing radiator.