moosens

Short novel, you’re a good author. Tough call be you seem to have covered a lot already. CTS is often a culprit. You’re sure , even if it’s new , that it’s a good unit? Vacuum lines come to mind too. Always need a tight fit at all junctions. O2 sensor been dealt with that you know? If it runs well at any point chances are the timing is fine. If you put your foot into it and the engine is smooth then I’d not worry about timing. Although the one aspect of that to be sure of is the belt tensioner. With covers off crank it by hand with your 22mm if you want to feel secure about timing. Check your marks. And feel and note the tensioner doing its job. But it would seem more fuel/air/spark rather than crank/cam timing. Another item to check would be your distributor. Take the cap off and feel for excessive up and down play or side to side play when you grab the rotor. Try checking over all that and let’s see what you find.

Welcome and sweet score. Been a long time since I’ve moved on from those but still a place in my heart for the dual range five speed. Is that really a Wisconsin car ? Looks too good to be from the rust belt. Enjoy it ! Start searching parts cars.

Geez, I’m a backyard hack myself so I would go to my trusty but sometimes dangerous propane torch. I’m without a proper garage so my equipment range isn’t quite where I’d like it to be. But guys like us we always get by. Just be careful. Stay out of the newspapers my dad always told me. Those are super notorious. You’ll be working then for a long time and I’d still bet money you’re going to snap at least one bolt. Given the events up to now I’d say you’ve got a slim chance of being 100% successful. There are various manufacturers but TimeSerts are one brand where you drill, tap, and send in a threaded cylinder then stake it so it won’t back out. Then you can easily remove your bolts going forward for repairs in the future. Heli-coil is fine but won’t generally survive a removal. Yeah man, good luck on those bolts.

Speaking for myself it’s about not giving up on the Hitachi which to this point gave the vehicle how many miles ? Probably over a hundred thousand. So the Hitachi is proven. It’s when age creeps in and folks bail out. And I have experience with Webers but not on Subarus. Weber is a solution but you’re spending a bit more money and you’ll want a choke cable as they don’t have the convenient automatic choke. But if you’re still curious and have the extra money talk with those guys. I can’t really speak for putting a Weber on a Subaru.

Got your rethread kit ready ? My preference is/was TimeSert. A little pricey but top quality. I sure do wish you luck.

It could be the little tab on the end of the spiral spring is broken. A few things to consider. You could just deal with it and work the pedal. Could take that choke housing apart and likely see the small bent tab at the end of the spiral spring will have broken. Then either find another from a junkyard or an enthusiast. Could get the Weber kit.

Reverse lamp switch. There’s a gasket behind it that measures 14.2x21x2

I’d start with the rear wheel cylinders. Maybe take a peek looking for fluid running down or the stain from it. That might determine which side easier. And if you’re in the rust belt like me you want to check those rear brake lines, the passenger side usually the culprit. And the M/C stays filled ? Both reservoirs?

There’s a small dot on that glass site hole. It’s about half way up. Pump or float valve/needle. My opinion.

Fuel pump starting to fail would be my first guess.

Anti-Dieseling device. Yes I’ve seen that wire break off at the end of the metal. Let me check as I can. I’m currently cleaning house of over 40 years of Subarus and the 70s are my main focus. If you go on eBay you’ll see I have a lot of 70s and I have or had a carburetor listed. I know you don’t need the whole carb but just for reference. And that’s a rebuilt carb. “cashingmystuffin” is my eBay name. More than likely if you just lightly touch a soldering iron to it you can set that wire back on well enough. Good luck. I’ll try to post more later about the anti dieseling switch.

Yeah as mentioned if you’re willing and able. Dual Range Five Speed all time hero of Subaru transmissions to me.

Hey there. You mentioned 80 and then 86 so I checked your profile and I’m able to see you’ve got an 86. Doubtful that you’ll find new parts but without question I would either try west coast dealers or have your local check with the west coast Subaru parts distributors. They can check and a good guy will help you out. As for manuals you may find some online. A parts catalog is helpful too but I’m not sure those are online. I do have a parts catalog from the 82-87 Brat era, might be an 85 but the transmission is the same. I’ll see what I can dig up for you. Send me a message if you’re able. Sometimes new members have a waiting period, but I’m not sure these days.

And thanks very much for those pictures. They are already very helpful to me.

Overall I’d say not so bad compared to what I’ll be dealing with. I’m some regard mine aren’t too far off from yours with the major exception of my stage one 1977 wagon is very much rotted at that rear skirt - which looks so sweet on your car. Enjoy that. The 79 I drive now it’s mostly the corners. But the 77 got bitten by the rust bug in a couple spots that are going the be a considerable effort to make good.

That color to me says 1967 Chevy Impala wagon. Nice to see that color. We didn’t get that green.

Looks quite solid compared to the ones I have. Enjoy ! Please post pics and I’m especially interested in the rear from the deck down behind where the bumper would hang. I guess we call that the transom. Or rear skirt. Also the usual rear corners. And the front wheel apron where the mud gets slung. Those areas I mentioned I’ve either got to throw money at or become skillful in a trade I’d always avoided. Cheers !

Good luck. If you can’t find parts catalogs online let me know. They have the exploded views that help in times like this. Service manual might help some too. Been ages since I’ve messed with those 85-89s

Random parts numbers form the 95/96 2.2 Legacy catalog if this helps at all. The part that bolts onto the passenger side of the TB is called a Throtte Sensor - yup - we all call it the throttle position sensor, but who are we? Part number 22633AA110 and that’s for cars spit out from the factory from 03/94 through 05/95 and also 06/95 - going forward at time of print. Good luck with it.

Man I forgot to tell you all that my 79 took a solid second place in the “dinosaur” pre-1995 category. Maybe I already bragged this, I’m old. So hey, now I’m focusing on my earlier 70’s boxers and at this moment am looking to move the *second place* finisher in the Largest Subaru meet in the country and maybe the world. 1979 GL 4WD Wagon currently on Craigslist in the Fairfield county section of the NYC area.

Need gone soon. Check above posts

I’m the same guy as you. Vintage 1963 youngest of three and middle brother was a mechanic before they called them technicians. There’s online service manuals out there too.

Tough call. And I’ve seen where a failing due pump does show some of what you’ve mentioned. But so would a cracked sensor or loose connection. I use my 94 Legacy as a daily beater. Can’t say I’ve really had this issue on those cars 90-94 Bit this also sounds similar to what I’m getting right now with my wife’s 2006. We have a broken cam follower sensor connector. So it’s going into default mode randomly but if I push my foot into the pedal I can get the throttle to act as it should and actually drive normally - until the next fit it throws. Just my thoughts so you’re not alone in the wilderness here.

All I can add is that I did the PCV swap from the 2000/01 to the 2002+ block fairly easily. Should be archived. In my case I needed I think a 22mm tap for the EGR. And one inch rubber tubing. Been a while. But just an example of what you may have to do. Good luck. Just looked at your profile for location and I see that you know your stuff. You’ll be fine I think.

All I can add is that I did the PCV swap from the 2000/01 to the 2002+ block fairly easily. Should be archived. In my case I needed I think a 22mm tap for the EGR. And one inch rubber tubing. Been a while. But just an example of what you may have to do. Good luck.