moosens

Cult Cricket - I’m guessing is still around here too, he has one on eBay right now. Not cheap. So here’s a story for you gen two kids. We folks from the Historic forum have long ago , twice ordered from PRP and had batches of 50 freshly made. I handled the bulk of it and I think pretty much the whole second batch. Try them and any other rubber seal manufacturer that may exists. But try PRP first. Precision Replacement Parts. They have a few locations but I think the main office is in the PNW You may get lucky like we did. The mold may still exist. Good luck! For reference ours worked out to less than $50 and with shipping I’m pretty sure everyone paid around $12-18 shipping tops. I think the number for the gaskets worked out to like $39 and change each. If you can cover that batch of fifty and sell them on eBay or better places you’d make plenty enough to cover the effort GOING BY CURRENT PRICES. We did things as a club/group of enthusiasts so there was no real profit. Just a few cents over for gas , etc. I don’t have a current contact. Our last guy moved up from sales. I’ll check around and see if I’ve got any receipt. But that was too many years ago. Just try them and they’ll have a sales rep handle your inquiry. Present yourself as a group and know you’re buying a lot of 50 or more. If they can create the order they’ll likely also stock a batch in their own inventory like they did with ours. WCR-288 is the First Gen gasket.

Place in Australia should have them. Phil’s ?

For sure. I just started back trying to sell on eBay again. That after looking at prices of some of the first gen Legacy parts I still have. $300 you’ll make back off the nose of the car alone. Let me know if you part it out please. Enjoy!

Not the best but you may find yourself settling on them. NTN, Koyo bearings if you can find them. So that of course means the idlers. The tensioner as mentioned, see if you can get the more recent version with the bracket if your current tensioner is n/a. Is that toothed idle the same as other generations? Kits are getting tricky. Aisin seems to be the way to go but you also see them going to lesser quality as time moves on. Your belt was a correct one. Don’t sweat the name. If it has the timing marks as it should then save that until you are done with the next belt. It may show up unmarked if you get a kit these days. Good luck. You’ll be fine soon enough.

Yeah I’m familiar with the $47k Brat , it sits up the road in Branford CT up on a loft you can’t get to. Ok sure you did straighten me out on that. I guess the numbers you present aren’t so bad but historically to an older guy like me it’s gotten stupid. And I feel that way about that Brat too. I’ve seen enough of it to know it’s not as it came from the dealer. Yet so low miles. Hmmm. To me that was someone who was connected with the warehouse in Cherry Hill. But also parts that don’t belong. But that didn’t matter to two guys with too much money. Good luck to the person seeking to spend $60K on anything built after the GM influence and with a turbo. My opinion. If you’ve got the money power to ya! The infamous Brat and many other interesting and rare Subarus can be seen at the main location of Premier Subaru easy to reach in Branford CT

Yikes ! I just scrolled down Dave’s link. $300+ K?? A few over $100K and the heap of the still well into five figures. That’s why I stay old school. No sense being pretentious about it. It’s gotten stupid. 40 years ago we would scan the papers looking for that special model etc. Some were unaffordable but not to the point of being as costly as your home. CS - good luck. If that’s your thing and your dream then I hope you’re able to achieve it.

In one way it’s entirely with $300 But if you’re going to rely upon this car there may be a head gasket issue and the thermostat open may be their temporary solution. FWD manuals I know get sloppy with wear on the main shaft. Some fold sleeve that shaft and keep going much longer. And the AWD version is about the same with the main shaft but also shifter seems to get sloppy faster than FWD. shifter bushings solve that.

I want to say that putting the single cam first edition EJ22 into the next generation was commonplace. Check the archives but like people suggest maybe use the big dog search engine and also add Ultimate Subaru message board at the end. At least that’s what I hear. So you want to eliminate the four cam 2.5 correct ? That’s what the masses did a good 15 plus years ago. My memory can be touchy but i seem to recall you’d want one particular of the two MAF’s. But again do the search and learn from those who walked the walk.

Glad your wife is ok. You’ve got the right idea as far as I’m concerned. Lots to use that awesome engine and drivetrain on. I’m not sure how well it’ll fit in later years. Given my affliction I’d prefer to look for a solid body of the same era or older. But that’s my taste. We have a 2006 OBW and it would be interesting with the old 2.2 in it. I wouldn’t be opposed to that. But I’m thinking the folks who work one these cars daily and/or have upgraded will give you real direction. That said I’ve done the same and yes I would grab the whole crossmember and all. Easier to unbolt that way and drop it. Harnesses, ECU, Transmission brain, whatever. Once it’s gone it’s a pain to find again. You can always toss it out later. Good luck on this one. Needless to say you guys should feel a little blessed despite the vehicle loss.

I didn’t go. My car was fairly ready this year too. If we get a good group next year I’ll likely go.

Ok maybe not very soon, but soon. Hoping to have this car moved on in some way before the winter. It’s worth saving. In fact I’m even sort of regretting passing this one over and putting the effort into my 79. That said there’s a possibility it may even stay and be built upon. So if you’re interested send a message.

Nice job. But I don’t recall ever having to drill anything out on those. Maybe mine we the previous generations. But I’ll pretty sure I did a Loyale series as well. Everything you described sounds dead on to me. Except the drilling. But you’ve got it in front of you and I haven’t had those in my face in over 15 years now. Enjoy the weekend.

Didn’t those turn out to be screws and not pins? Wish I caught you sooner. You can use a thin chisel and smack them in the correct direction and they will spin out with ease. Next time. Sorry I ditched all my 80’s stuff over a decade ago. Random stuff still pops up but I’m fairly certain I do not have an ignition switch. I have seen them and maybe even right now on eek bay. But that’s the back. Seems like you need the front key/lock section which hardly ever come up. Junk yards or a guy like me. Good luck.

Dave, your issue may have been n/a vs turbo. Turbo pumps came with the studs in place and would extend further as well. Hopper , yes that little period of late 78 through 80 (1600s) is sometimes a little tricky. And don’t ya know I have a similar problem now with my 79. Hadn’t noticed anything until I tried to use the A/C. My fan blades are hitting the water pump pulley. I don’t know how I didn’t see that but it happens. Curious to see if there’s any charge left in my a/c after sitting for like 30+ years.

I bought a Y pipe from David M on the face book groups. But it’s the later wide case version. It looks like I won’t be needing that one. Paid kind of high by my standards but we do what we do sometimes. From way back when I know we used to flex the Y pipe to make an 1800 fit a 1600 or the opposite. I might have a first gen narrow case EA71 Y pipe in storage but for now I don’t think I should let that one go. Up here it’s fairly relaxed with the vintage cars. We are very lucky with no inspections at all. I have a couple projects coming which should be my last. When the dust settles I’ll spill off what I don’t need. You know where I am. If you or anyone wants that widecase Y pipe from a 1600 send me a message. This pipe is perfect for the 80-83-ish 1600’s

Yes I meant the water pump. In 1980 you get two pumps that look exactly the same but the Automatics have the different part number. That’s one possibility I had forgotten. For your reference this engine you have is more like a 1980 1600 and not like a 1978. My 79 4wd wagon is the same as your Brat and I have the old style pump. In the parts catalog there is an asterisk in the remarks column and that means it’s a new product going forward. So I’d say you have a later production 79. What’s the mfg. date on the label on the drivers door?

Still foggy here : what about the key on the shaft. Is the sleeve of the pulley supposed to go over it? Sorry , I actually just had this stuff in my hands last year but I work overnights so just give me some time to think. Thanks.

You will not be removing the gear unless you split the cases. Let me wake up some and then maybe I’ll have some vision on this. Foggy notion: are the 1800 and 1600 pumps the same in that 79/80 era? Is the starter located dead top center of the bellhousing ? Or is it off to the left like the later EA engines ?

79 but which engine? There appears to be the internal passage water pump. That’s the wide case. The narrow case or first edition, had the duct from the pump over the deck of the block. I’m not sure it’s possible to mess up the two but is that maybe the case here?

Stafford Speedway in CT plenty of info out there , it’s the biggest meet in the country etc etc but not a lot of vintage representation. So that’s where I come in. Hope some folks can make the trip. It’s a decent event even for an older guy like myself. There’ll be plenty of shiny WRX models there but it’s a fair enough mix of all Subarus of the last 20 years - more when dinosaurs like me show up. Enjoy!

While this first post remains true and in waiting yet another brown wagon has come my way. Due to get my hands on it later this week or early next week. Then I’ll have a better assessment of what I’ll be doing with it. But from what I’ve seen this appears to be another BODY I won’t be needing. Again , I am waiting to see but this wagon might be front wheel drive. So two bodies will be available most likely between now and end of summer. Original posting car sits in Norwich CT and will need to be hauled from there. This additional wagon I’m still not sure where I’m dragging it but likely Naugatuck CT where the next owner can pick it up. Will add more details soon. But please keep in mind these cars will be extremely picked over and likely will NOT ROLL. So bring some type of dolley or big log or whatever gets it rolled onto your hauler. Message here or email me at moosens@yahoo.com

I see 175’s on there. You know the deal, check the side door or door jamb tag for the correct size. My previous thought was for gen one , pardon that. I’m a dinosaur. Gen two deserves at least 175’s maybe 185’s if my memory serves me at all. My last gen two was around 2003 or so. Again back to which direction you want to take it. You might want strictly road tires with whitewalls, like I did back in the day with a 4wd wagon. The kid installing the tires was angry because I wanted the white walls out. But that was me then. What I wanted.

Those wheels were mostly found on 85-87 GL DL Loyale style cars. I’ve seen Brats with them but I agree I don’t think they are the best or maybe even weren’t offered for the Brat. But since they fit - the work. Known around here as the H style wheels. Had plenty of them.

So that looks like a CO plate which would be more likely to have little or no real rust. To me they’re mostly all overpriced these days. Be considerate to yourself. All depends on your direction going forward. Purist ? Mod happy ? Electric conversion? Lots of variations have already been successful projects. If you want to keep it close to stock then consider how little old stock is out there. Even the few guys who like me gathered old dealer stock - they aren’t exactly going to be able to restock. Good luck. Post back with your expectations of the Brat for the next few years or more. What would I pay for this? Maybe $3k or little more as long as it’s as solid as I’d like. Work your way back from there. Old days , would have gotten it for $600. But that’s life.

Sounds right in line with any east coast find Subaru of the 70’s or 80’s. Pretty much the items that make it stand and stop. And maybe add in occasional fuel delivery if a true rust bucket or longtime sitter. Those black round things I think tofu won’t have as hard of a time if you go with the 165’s Good luck, and enjoy! Similar situation here with my 79. So if the stars align, where do me meet up? Barrens? Carlisle? Most of the northeast vintage Subaru people keep real low profiles. There’s a good amount but getting folks gathered is like herding cats. So I’ve heard.