moosens

Inside those flat disks with their crowns are the sleeved bushings. Need 4 of those bushings for mustache bar and lateral bracket. Note the same crowned disks are on the ends of the diff. mount bracket. So you will need 8 of those to do a complete job. 8 disks 4 bushings original p/n for “stopper” aka the crowned disk is 6220 10001 and the bushings p/n 6220 04020 Maybe be worth hunting. I know most likely they’re going to be out but you never know. I see you’re up north. Back when my local was way past keeping that old stock I would have them use a west coast or other regional distributor and often I would score.

Last call , going into overall sale if I don’t hear from someone with an automatic. Does not work on wagons.

If the body is solid it’s worth getting going. I agree although I don’t know your skill level , with doing it yourself. For now. And hopefully you’re the only cat this car needs to purr. Lots of drama about the Hitachi but many are fine to go forward with. There’s several issues that can occur , or not. Best to remove , soak , and using forced air clean it out with no metal , maybe you know this stuff ?? And then a fresh carb kit. They’re around $20ish on eBay. Don’t be afraid to get most any brand. You’re not going to find a factory kit , some may hoard them but virtually don’t see them. They’re pretty much about all the same kit. Watch your float level through the sight glass on the drivers side of the carb. You’ll likely need to adjust or at least clean the heck out of the float bowl chamber. Get a factory service manual. There’s several on eBay now that apply. You can use any of those thick manuals from October 1977 through 79 for sure. They’re all the same animal. Very little to note at all. Your 79 is the first year of all States getting electronic ignition. No points ! Enjoy that. If trouble starting breath and relax. Take note of the alternator and the signal it sends to the voltage regulator and to the fuel pump. That catches lots of folks off guard. Its all got to be harmonious or it will start and die out in a few seconds. See that happening , read this all again. They recommend replacing the VR and Alt at the same time. But several folks say that doesn’t have to happen. Check each component or have them checked. No matter how solid or where you live there’s a couple spots to note for debris accumulating and causing rust-into pinhole rot , etc if in worse climate. One spot is way down under the cowl which sits in front of the front windshield. Take that off and clean up the corners. Use good light from inside and look for pinholes or any holes. Wheel aprons are notorious in salty road places. Lower firewall too. Pull the lower bolts off the fender tails and rinse out and crap with a hose. Open the front doors and you’ll see. Typical build us spot often causes that lower tail of the fender to rot. And then the body where it mates up at the sill. Rear - check brake lines , and body generally all around the tank and suspension especially where it bolts to the unibody. Fuse block has a tendency to get super hot , even catch fire on the bottom two fuses , maybe bottom three. Headlight fuses. You’ll read about it. Shifters rattle - find the bushings , little white polypropylene or similar. Not too easy to find but they’re out there. Hopefully guys are copying those and other parts now. And there’s a sort of Seat bushing on that shifter , for lack of proper name , and that sits on the tranny and takes an effort to do but also worth it if you’re really wanting to get every little itch scratched. Also a seal there atop the trans which leaks so find that. It’s small. Which brings me to the Factory Parts Manual. A few guys like me will have them. I think you may be able to find online. If so , DO IT !! Exploded views are SO helpful. You’re going to have a blast and show them up ! And way before September. Enjoy !

Sorry guys but the moment has apparently arrived. Someday soon after the sale I will do my best to clean up all my old posts. Don’t worry , I’ll still be around. Cheers !

The mystique of Boone to an East coast vintage enthusiast like myself is that we all here understood it to be a place of old Subaru worship. Last time I was out that way was around 1993 when I stopped in Jonas Ridge to meet Mr. Mosely - Mosrite Guitars. Then when we were outside of Win/Salem in what is now Phafftown there was a rusting 76 sedan I recall near our friends place. Personally I love both ends of NC , never spent much time in the middle except drive troughs. We had an elder friend in Marion above I-40 who was an engineer who worked for Howard Hughes and had an incredible list of accomplishments. He owned a small mountain top. Such a beautiful property. NC has a feel you never forget. Enjoy !

Do you know Danny Knop in Franklin ? He has a 1979.

I’m in CT sadly.

Cheap and effective. Good man ! Enjoy your time here. Anywhere near Boone ?

Just move on and be thankful she gave you all she did. Sounds like a nice $500 beater for the next guy , which is really nonexistent these days so let’s say it’s a $1500 beater. Hope that doesn’t hurt your feelings. I don’t need it but my friend has a 2005 if it comes to ever dumping it off. I know you won’t be parting it out. You retired guys need reliable cars to get to your golf games and lunches with your friends.

Automatic 4WD starts in the second generation. Then everyone who could drive slowly wanted 4WD. And the world became a more boring place. Let’s hear about this 79 from Santa Cruise!

Right on ! Yes , the trend is to go over to FB but it’s really not for me. I do go there to try to help and sell parts. You post a question and get snarky replies and off topic nonsense or branch off into people making sales , etc... Enjoy !

Also , nobody ever seems to give a rats tail these days but you may choose to add a post in the “Wish List” thread once you’ve gone over it.

Here’s some more info. Start up at the cowl in front of the windshield. Remove that and look down and see the pine needles , leaves , dirt , all in a nice 40 year old salad. That’s where the pinholes start the rust - water into the front interior floor sometimes - and always rot down below at the lower portion of the firewall and also the wheel apron. You’ll likely also see the front wheels have kicked enough to cause holes in the apron but being where you are maybe none of this applies. Do inspect. “ is the windshield cracked? because you're not finding another one! and if you do, they go for $300+ just for the glrump roast, plus shipping, plus installation. “ I have windshields and probably a couple others at least also have them. Currently I’m asking around $200 mostly because of the labor and materials involved in shipping. The gasket is indeed available and you can actually install it yourself. Easy ! Just have to be sure all the metal around the window is rust free and ready to accept a fresh gasket. (Currently I have a Coupe windshield on eBay for $300 but that is super special and way more rare) Ok so yes they are super reliable just don’t forget to shift gears on the highway. That’s how I managed to kill a perfectly good same engine. I was in third and having a blast then €@%~¥!!!!! Someone calculated I was probably doing 7-8k revs ! Be smart , have your coffee before doing what I did. Change oil as you should , can adjust valves yourself , you’ll need valve rocker cover gaskets , and start looking for oil pumps or reseal kits. Subarasaurus there are no automatic 4WD wagons or anything 4WD back then. It’s a manual and your shifter will likely rattle. Look for the bushings. I am stepping aside from ownership for a while as I turn to my motorcycles before I get too old. But you’ll see my stuff on eBay and the face book groups etc. “cashingmystuffin” that’s me on eBay. Best of luck. You’ll be fine and you’re really going to love it. Enjoy !

You still a Justy owner ? Seen a good amount of NOS lately. Couple of parts cars in Norwalk CT a guy keeps posting. Minor resurgence ! Lol

Feel good about it man ! Enjoy ! Think protection once you’ve made your repairs. Good luck with it.

Enjoy ! Two headlights or four ? Curious what your 92 came with.

No sweat. Enjoy your time !

Not ok

With the old school seats it was easiest to swap material onto your old drivers seat. Cut one hole for the handle and you’ll have one hole exposed but nobody can see it.

#1 Not as reliable as you can have. Somewhat notorious. Overheating , headgaskets , turbo issues and heat causing other issues like axles I think. Good old honest EJ is your man for the job. To me , if going EA82 I would go simple as in SPFI but that’s based on my roadgoing experiences and minimal off-roading. #2 Various but for sure remember it’s a closed loop system for air/fuel so leaks especially around the throttle body will/can cause light smoke to near black smoke. Heat often destroys that axle it sits over/next to. #3 MPFI #4 Enjoy the project !!

Hey there ! Spot any oldie Subies up there in the high n dry ? M and Welcome , of course

I have an 89 manual. Getting exhausted so I’m not sure what I can do. Pics too large , I’m needing sleep soon. But hey I’ve got something happening. Going to try to add to FB USMB group

Sometimes even a new oil pump or fresh reseal and you still don’t quite get full pressure up to that last HLA in the flow line. Rev it up for 20 seconds or so nice n high without being crazy.

You’re in TX still ? Just had a radiator or two in my hands at storage. Trying to get there today, maybe an hour from now and then I’ll try to get them out. One of those items I tucked deep back so depending on energy level I can’t promise. Stuff need to get to people though so I’m inspired mentally. It’s the old bones resistant to the cause. What’s one worth these days ? There should be one I got from an old school radiator shop in New Haven CT around 15 years ago or more. They totally cooked it and tested and painted it glossy black. Fairly certain there’s a nice low miles used one there too. Likely from the 76 GF old lady car I had with 57k on it and super well kept by her husband. Talk soon, Paul