moosens

Been a while since I’ve run an EA81 so I’m not sure why they’re showing that top picture which looks like two large washers. My eyes are older and I’m on a phone. But for sure the lower picture is correct for the Y pipe (header) to the engine heads.

Over here we are lucky to have a place called the Nutty Company. I’m pretty sure you can look them up and order online too. They have most everything for nuts and bolts and more. What I did not very long ago was purchase a threaded rod. I cut pieces based on the one good stud I had left from original. And of course I got stainless nuts to go with them. I don’t recall if they had aluminum rod. I’m pretty sure mine is steel. So I’ll keep an eye on those going forward. Good luck. You can also try the west coast and dry zone dealers. They may still have them around.

Rock shows the pick up coil in stock around $27 be sure you get the 4wd not FWD

Somebody call, put up some money, and you’ll have a product you can sell at a fair percentage more without being greedy and still being kind to both parties. Or be the greedy seller and ask a fortune. Smelly wet floors in your classic car are Not cool.

PRP - 1-800-367-8241

You’ll need to scan eBay and maybe save the search with notifications for the Atsugi or Paraut. If you spot an older Beck Arnley pump look it over. If it says made in Japan chances are it’s fine. But also watch for more contemporary packaging with Beck and make sure the pump doesn’t say GMB. Some older ones may still exist that are Japanese but beware the ones made elsewhere.

I was just Premier again and saw the Brat and the rest. If anyone has the one you’re looking for I’d bet this guy does. I’ll ask next time but you know it won’t be for sale. Good luck. I hope I can spill some magic over to you my friend. After many decades it appears I may/will finally have the two or maybe three vintage Subarus I’ve wanted back in my life for decades. This coming month I should be making it all happen. Hope the same light shines on you !

And you’re sure you’ve found the little lever at the base that releases them ?

If possible I’d find a Paraut or Atsugi. Settle for that one if you have to but you’ll be well off with the names I mentioned.

Cult Cricket - I’m guessing is still around here too, he has one on eBay right now. Not cheap. So here’s a story for you gen two kids. We folks from the Historic forum have long ago , twice ordered from PRP and had batches of 50 freshly made. I handled the bulk of it and I think pretty much the whole second batch. Try them and any other rubber seal manufacturer that may exists. But try PRP first. Precision Replacement Parts. They have a few locations but I think the main office is in the PNW You may get lucky like we did. The mold may still exist. Good luck! For reference ours worked out to less than $50 and with shipping I’m pretty sure everyone paid around $12-18 shipping tops. I think the number for the gaskets worked out to like $39 and change each. If you can cover that batch of fifty and sell them on eBay or better places you’d make plenty enough to cover the effort GOING BY CURRENT PRICES. We did things as a club/group of enthusiasts so there was no real profit. Just a few cents over for gas , etc. I don’t have a current contact. Our last guy moved up from sales. I’ll check around and see if I’ve got any receipt. But that was too many years ago. Just try them and they’ll have a sales rep handle your inquiry. Present yourself as a group and know you’re buying a lot of 50 or more. If they can create the order they’ll likely also stock a batch in their own inventory like they did with ours. WCR-288 is the First Gen gasket.

Place in Australia should have them. Phil’s ?

For sure. I just started back trying to sell on eBay again. That after looking at prices of some of the first gen Legacy parts I still have. $300 you’ll make back off the nose of the car alone. Let me know if you part it out please. Enjoy!

Not the best but you may find yourself settling on them. NTN, Koyo bearings if you can find them. So that of course means the idlers. The tensioner as mentioned, see if you can get the more recent version with the bracket if your current tensioner is n/a. Is that toothed idle the same as other generations? Kits are getting tricky. Aisin seems to be the way to go but you also see them going to lesser quality as time moves on. Your belt was a correct one. Don’t sweat the name. If it has the timing marks as it should then save that until you are done with the next belt. It may show up unmarked if you get a kit these days. Good luck. You’ll be fine soon enough.

Yeah I’m familiar with the $47k Brat , it sits up the road in Branford CT up on a loft you can’t get to. Ok sure you did straighten me out on that. I guess the numbers you present aren’t so bad but historically to an older guy like me it’s gotten stupid. And I feel that way about that Brat too. I’ve seen enough of it to know it’s not as it came from the dealer. Yet so low miles. Hmmm. To me that was someone who was connected with the warehouse in Cherry Hill. But also parts that don’t belong. But that didn’t matter to two guys with too much money. Good luck to the person seeking to spend $60K on anything built after the GM influence and with a turbo. My opinion. If you’ve got the money power to ya! The infamous Brat and many other interesting and rare Subarus can be seen at the main location of Premier Subaru easy to reach in Branford CT

Yikes ! I just scrolled down Dave’s link. $300+ K?? A few over $100K and the heap of the still well into five figures. That’s why I stay old school. No sense being pretentious about it. It’s gotten stupid. 40 years ago we would scan the papers looking for that special model etc. Some were unaffordable but not to the point of being as costly as your home. CS - good luck. If that’s your thing and your dream then I hope you’re able to achieve it.

In one way it’s entirely with $300 But if you’re going to rely upon this car there may be a head gasket issue and the thermostat open may be their temporary solution. FWD manuals I know get sloppy with wear on the main shaft. Some fold sleeve that shaft and keep going much longer. And the AWD version is about the same with the main shaft but also shifter seems to get sloppy faster than FWD. shifter bushings solve that.

I want to say that putting the single cam first edition EJ22 into the next generation was commonplace. Check the archives but like people suggest maybe use the big dog search engine and also add Ultimate Subaru message board at the end. At least that’s what I hear. So you want to eliminate the four cam 2.5 correct ? That’s what the masses did a good 15 plus years ago. My memory can be touchy but i seem to recall you’d want one particular of the two MAF’s. But again do the search and learn from those who walked the walk.

Glad your wife is ok. You’ve got the right idea as far as I’m concerned. Lots to use that awesome engine and drivetrain on. I’m not sure how well it’ll fit in later years. Given my affliction I’d prefer to look for a solid body of the same era or older. But that’s my taste. We have a 2006 OBW and it would be interesting with the old 2.2 in it. I wouldn’t be opposed to that. But I’m thinking the folks who work one these cars daily and/or have upgraded will give you real direction. That said I’ve done the same and yes I would grab the whole crossmember and all. Easier to unbolt that way and drop it. Harnesses, ECU, Transmission brain, whatever. Once it’s gone it’s a pain to find again. You can always toss it out later. Good luck on this one. Needless to say you guys should feel a little blessed despite the vehicle loss.

I didn’t go. My car was fairly ready this year too. If we get a good group next year I’ll likely go.

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Nice job. But I don’t recall ever having to drill anything out on those. Maybe mine we the previous generations. But I’ll pretty sure I did a Loyale series as well. Everything you described sounds dead on to me. Except the drilling. But you’ve got it in front of you and I haven’t had those in my face in over 15 years now. Enjoy the weekend.

Didn’t those turn out to be screws and not pins? Wish I caught you sooner. You can use a thin chisel and smack them in the correct direction and they will spin out with ease. Next time. Sorry I ditched all my 80’s stuff over a decade ago. Random stuff still pops up but I’m fairly certain I do not have an ignition switch. I have seen them and maybe even right now on eek bay. But that’s the back. Seems like you need the front key/lock section which hardly ever come up. Junk yards or a guy like me. Good luck.

Dave, your issue may have been n/a vs turbo. Turbo pumps came with the studs in place and would extend further as well. Hopper , yes that little period of late 78 through 80 (1600s) is sometimes a little tricky. And don’t ya know I have a similar problem now with my 79. Hadn’t noticed anything until I tried to use the A/C. My fan blades are hitting the water pump pulley. I don’t know how I didn’t see that but it happens. Curious to see if there’s any charge left in my a/c after sitting for like 30+ years.

I bought a Y pipe from David M on the face book groups. But it’s the later wide case version. It looks like I won’t be needing that one. Paid kind of high by my standards but we do what we do sometimes. From way back when I know we used to flex the Y pipe to make an 1800 fit a 1600 or the opposite. I might have a first gen narrow case EA71 Y pipe in storage but for now I don’t think I should let that one go. Up here it’s fairly relaxed with the vintage cars. We are very lucky with no inspections at all. I have a couple projects coming which should be my last. When the dust settles I’ll spill off what I don’t need. You know where I am. If you or anyone wants that widecase Y pipe from a 1600 send me a message. This pipe is perfect for the 80-83-ish 1600’s

Yes I meant the water pump. In 1980 you get two pumps that look exactly the same but the Automatics have the different part number. That’s one possibility I had forgotten. For your reference this engine you have is more like a 1980 1600 and not like a 1978. My 79 4wd wagon is the same as your Brat and I have the old style pump. In the parts catalog there is an asterisk in the remarks column and that means it’s a new product going forward. So I’d say you have a later production 79. What’s the mfg. date on the label on the drivers door?