moosens

Where in CT? Subafreak would likely take them. He has my old 74 and another Stage I Wagon.

Just an update for your reading pleasure. i did get the correct sealant from a better Nissan dealer. Pan on , did the O ring on the pick up tube before closing it up. Got the passenger side rear cam O ring too. Got my timing covers and even splurged for the two large cover gaskets. Next im setting timing in place and hoping I remember to take the spark plugs out of the passenger side and squirt some ?? Marvel or something to help clear out the milkshake that poured out when turned on it’s side. I let it all drip out and the pan and cases look great. Going to hand crank it some with plugs out and then do at least one oil change immediately after first start up and quick warm up. Probably do two oil changes just to feel better. We’ll see what comes out with change no.1

Bennie , I’ll do what I can. Working from a phone only these days. But thanks. Going to do that pan later today , but only if I have a good sealant. If I can’t score the Three Bond you folks think I should use RTV or something else ? Or calm myself down and wait until my internet ordered tube comes in ?

Would be nice if my local Nissan dealer wasn’t a douche. Terrible people on the phone. Jackass says they don’t sell it. I’ve got a day to work with. But yes I’ll get some instead of Right Stuff.

These cars were never super easy going into reverse, and some people get frustrated and abusive with them. Hold pressure on the shifter while slowly letting the clutch out, and it will align the gears and drop in. - all very true

Are you confident that otherwise the clutch pedal action is sufficient ? I’d start there having had several with occasional similar issues. If you haven’t experienced pedal box failure you likely soon will. Check the pedal box at the clutch side. You may find a crack which has the thin sheet metal flexing and causing just enough disturbance to just show up with reverse , for now. If that’s the case it’ll get worse. And you can buy cable after cable.

Picture test. https://imageshack.com/i/pnJvq6r2j Nothing special , sorry.

It’s all about the seams in the wheel aprons. Protect those horizontal seams with your favorite type of tar etc. That’s how the rust starts - from the inside of the car , not the outside. Enjoy the weekend!

Good to know. Took the oil pump off and the O ring had gotten a kink in it but was in place. The previous pump seal had the same “D” shape deformation in its O ring , and mine had done the same. Removed all the goop and started over. Happy now. Water pump on - my one weak llink here using a Chinese pump - sorry , but it was sitting on my shelf paid for and I can always suck it up if it fails early as we all expect.

They turn out. Or at least when they will allow you to turn them out. I’ve got a set of new for 70’s which are probably the same as 80’s

Thanks. I’ll just use the right stuff. I’ve got one bottle going and another I haven’t opened yet. I see that new pans aren’t too pricey. I’ve got a little time so I’ll drop the existing pan and decide. Somewhere in all my crap might be an NOS pan. I know I had one once but might have used it already.

Ok , I guess I had that wrong. I guess all those blueish O rings I’ve used were of lesser quality ? Never had an issue. My dealer parts guy is great and an older guy so I trust him. Talking about the oil pump O ring. So I’ll take that step backwards today and check the pump. Waggggghhhh On the near horizon I’ll be taking the show over to a friends place and place the engine on a stand so I can comfortably get the oil Pan resealed. I’ve seen and even have somewhere an oil pan gasket. Many folks say they don’t exist and only use Fuji-bond , etc. What’s your method ?

Yeah the O rings looked old school black - not the blue Viton. They also appeared slightly oversized but you can just manage to set them into their recesses and get the crossover back on before the popped. And yes , I sanded and painted that large tube which sits too close to the block. Now my paranoia is the my oil pump will chump out on me down the line because I gooped up that area of the pump that the O ring goes up against. I meant to leave that area bare and just seal the perimeter of the pump and around the bolt holes. But I got too happy and didn’t think about it until after I’d bolted up the pump. Subaru tech advises it’ll probably be fine but I’ll carry the paranoia for a while. I’m tempted to just take the pump off and inspect before I proceed with setting the timing back on.

WOW ! Man am I glad you guys told me to get those O rings!!! They would have failed sooner than later I’d guess. Easy enough on wallet , time , and bolts came out without stripping - going back n forth at first cracks saves threads. Moving along well for working in small chunks of time. Just need a fresh water pump and timing. Thanks again! Cheers!

Another fine effort Larry. You’re very kind to our community. Thanks man ! Readers , Larry is great for parts! Just got another order supplied. Parts look great , and prices great too.

Ok thanks again.

Thanks. Tough to look at.

This is an engine I have out and will be replacing my daily driver’s with. Same engine as my other current post(s).

On my first edition 2.2 the upper edge of the headgaskets took some abuse from debris and moisture sitting atop the engine. Those little areas of exposed gasket at the top of the heads have gotten soft , rusty looking , and you can even see how the rust weakened the gasket to the point that it’s brittle. Just curious if seepage causes them to degrade.

Yes , already removed , sanded , and painted the tubes after inspecting them. The large tube which sits lowest and gathers more debris around it , is pitted. I’m hoping my painting it repels enough moisture that it doesn’t rot any further. Once it’s installed it’ll never get dirty like it the way it came to me. Thanks for the advice. Always always always Subaru seals and gaskets. For those keeping score I’ve got the rear side done - main , cam cap seal , and separator plate. Yes , I’ll get the O ring for the passenger side rear cam. Took the water pump off and the impeller was awful rusty looking so I’m going with the one from my existing engine , or a new one I have laying around. Thanks again. I’m sure Subafreak appreciates my not texting him with all the questions. Lol

And lastly , when I removed the intake it sure looked like there were no gaskets under it. Was I just a little blind and need to look closer? Thanks !

Secondly , those two tubes for the heater box. Anyone ever have those get pinholes from rust? The engine I got had some leaves and grime built up around it. I inspected it , sanded and painted it. Normally I’d just use my existing engine’s heater tubes. But I really need to have this engine buttoned up and ready to quick swap. I won’t have time for repairs like this. I don’t have a garage and I’m borrowing space at a friend's and it’s got to be a one day deal to do the engine swap.

Under the intake there is the coolant crossover as well as the two heater exchange tubes. Firstly , I’ve got the intake off and am resealing the engine. Should I bother with that crossover duct ? Looks nice and tight and dry. Are there gaskets under it?? Be right back

Lol , I see all of face dook as a mess ! Couldn’t agree more. My old postings are probably there way way down the run now. You’d have to scroll down to last year for actual parts I had out. This spring I posted a teaser to remind folks I’ll be posting items for sale again. And I’ve failed to have time and weather on my side to follow up. This time around I’ll do my best to post here too. It’s a great board and Shawn does a great job of running this , but the provider has made posting pics here more difficult. Face Dook is one easy way to get pics up to a dedicated audience.

Your side mirror looks great , but also not a Subaru item. Keep yours for now because the Subaru plastic mirrors turn to crap.