moosens

Yes I meant the water pump. In 1980 you get two pumps that look exactly the same but the Automatics have the different part number. That’s one possibility I had forgotten. For your reference this engine you have is more like a 1980 1600 and not like a 1978. My 79 4wd wagon is the same as your Brat and I have the old style pump. In the parts catalog there is an asterisk in the remarks column and that means it’s a new product going forward. So I’d say you have a later production 79. What’s the mfg. date on the label on the drivers door?

Still foggy here : what about the key on the shaft. Is the sleeve of the pulley supposed to go over it? Sorry , I actually just had this stuff in my hands last year but I work overnights so just give me some time to think. Thanks.

You will not be removing the gear unless you split the cases. Let me wake up some and then maybe I’ll have some vision on this. Foggy notion: are the 1800 and 1600 pumps the same in that 79/80 era? Is the starter located dead top center of the bellhousing ? Or is it off to the left like the later EA engines ?

79 but which engine? There appears to be the internal passage water pump. That’s the wide case. The narrow case or first edition, had the duct from the pump over the deck of the block. I’m not sure it’s possible to mess up the two but is that maybe the case here?

Stafford Speedway in CT plenty of info out there , it’s the biggest meet in the country etc etc but not a lot of vintage representation. So that’s where I come in. Hope some folks can make the trip. It’s a decent event even for an older guy like myself. There’ll be plenty of shiny WRX models there but it’s a fair enough mix of all Subarus of the last 20 years - more when dinosaurs like me show up. Enjoy!

Parts car. Body is too rotten. That’s the 1979 FWD wagon

I see 175’s on there. You know the deal, check the side door or door jamb tag for the correct size. My previous thought was for gen one , pardon that. I’m a dinosaur. Gen two deserves at least 175’s maybe 185’s if my memory serves me at all. My last gen two was around 2003 or so. Again back to which direction you want to take it. You might want strictly road tires with whitewalls, like I did back in the day with a 4wd wagon. The kid installing the tires was angry because I wanted the white walls out. But that was me then. What I wanted.

Those wheels were mostly found on 85-87 GL DL Loyale style cars. I’ve seen Brats with them but I agree I don’t think they are the best or maybe even weren’t offered for the Brat. But since they fit - the work. Known around here as the H style wheels. Had plenty of them.

So that looks like a CO plate which would be more likely to have little or no real rust. To me they’re mostly all overpriced these days. Be considerate to yourself. All depends on your direction going forward. Purist ? Mod happy ? Electric conversion? Lots of variations have already been successful projects. If you want to keep it close to stock then consider how little old stock is out there. Even the few guys who like me gathered old dealer stock - they aren’t exactly going to be able to restock. Good luck. Post back with your expectations of the Brat for the next few years or more. What would I pay for this? Maybe $3k or little more as long as it’s as solid as I’d like. Work your way back from there. Old days , would have gotten it for $600. But that’s life.

Sounds right in line with any east coast find Subaru of the 70’s or 80’s. Pretty much the items that make it stand and stop. And maybe add in occasional fuel delivery if a true rust bucket or longtime sitter. Those black round things I think tofu won’t have as hard of a time if you go with the 165’s Good luck, and enjoy! Similar situation here with my 79. So if the stars align, where do me meet up? Barrens? Carlisle? Most of the northeast vintage Subaru people keep real low profiles. There’s a good amount but getting folks gathered is like herding cats. So I’ve heard.

I posted this on the dreaded face boob in the appropriate Subaru groups. Here it’s not likely to get much attention but here goes. As a whole car this one isn’t a healthy base to create a running car from. It’s a parts car and has badly rotted through spots in various locations. Already missing the rear hatch and it’s pretty trashed inside. Naugatuck Connecticut is where the car sits. No engine. No rear hatch. Items like door glass etc I already have so you can score those very very cheap. If you have me take them out and ship just throw $15 my way for the effort of removal and packaging etc. Front windshield $200 Hood $200 it’s nice. Those are probably the only higher value parts. Has an aftermarket sunroof. Come take it yourself. Free if you stop by and remove it. Ceiling liner was cut out well. You can take that too. DL steering wheel not really great but if you need one it might help. Whole column. I didn’t yet look over the switches. Naugatuck CT

Busting balls here , that’s a parking brake. 6-8 clicks I’m pretty sure is what they are looking for. Got a service manual yet? Plenty on eBay cheap enough.

Congratulations again and great to see more classics in the northeast. Enjoy! Post back your car show trophies.

Awe geez you found your way into the great USMB. Get your ticket for the WBM yet ? Welcome or welcome back whichever may apply. Car looks great!

Sorry, turn the 22mm on the crank clockwise as you look at if from the front.

Easier than you may think. Grab a 22mm socket and ratchet and after removing the covers look for the alignment of the indentations on the sprockets. At one point all should point vertically to their mark on the inner covers and the main in the center you look above and you’ll see the mark I’m sure. Basic cam timing is always marked from the manufacturer. And the rest of the timing is out of our hands these days. Spray the backside of any bolt your going to remove on the covers. Let the nuts soak if you can. The covers tend to rack when the bolts won’t release. So don’t stress those. Just spray and maybe turn inwards a touch then back n forth.

Nice score , congratulations! Ok you’re inspiring. Not sure if you heard but I managed to smash my 94 wagon up a bit. But I’ve got parts and I’m slowly going to revive it. Enjoy!

Man some years have gone by, eh ? I’m doing well enough to pay bills and occasionally laugh a little. Thanks for asking. Hope you’re also paying bills and laughing occasionally or better. Nice to see you’re back. Best of luck!

Thanks Dave. Seems like what I researched a while back but never made a move on. I don’t have a laser cutter. But one way or another I’ll make it happen.

Please post back with your choice of material. I am in the same situation with my 79. I managed to find some rubber bladder type of material and I think I just need to snug my nuts down a bit better. But they are so delicate I sure don’t want to bust one of those tiny studs. Maybe that doesn’t read so well but hey laugh a little.

Thanks for following up. Kind of lucky that my 79 with the same brown tartan looks very good still. But I’m always on the lookout for a similar pattern.

Starting to become a more roadworthy vehicle little by little. Need one exhaust gasket for the flange at the rear of the Y pipe and then concentrate on brakes. Car now has its hard plates and good for three years on the registration.

Just a little JB Weld and wrap it with a piece from a soda can and you’re good to go. Much to say. But no need. Good luck with that.

One good thing about the older 70’s transmissions is they hadn’t begun to really suffer the synchro wear issue. It was nice seeing that transmission split and exposed.

Subafreak resealed my 4spd 1978 4wd transmission sometime around 2012 I think. He/we were able to score the seals and related but barely. If you’re ever going to do it I suggest hunting down the needed seals and gaskets etc immediately. Good luck and enjoy!