moosens

It was a penny. Found its way into that “right spot”.

Coins. There could be a coin down there. Check along the bottom of the shifter with the cover off.

Easy search to see what a bad flywheel looks like. You don’t want any blueing or any minor cracks etc. You’re likely to see some light blueing. Don’t let that scare you. Just inspect well and I’m sure it’ll last until the next clutch disk. I was in a pinch at the time and reused mine at around 159k and the car now has 312k and still it’s original flywheel.

That’s exactly what I’m talking about. Pedal box cracks and flexes. Flywheels can usually be resurfaced but sometimes you can find a new one if desired. A little pricey but that’s life.

Pine Barrens !!!

So which year is this one? You mention in the past you’ve done a Gen 2 Aside from the clutch issues you might want to check the pedal box for cracks especially on the clutch side. And be sure you are routing the cable correctly. Yes I know you’ve done the Gen 2 before but just throwing out some info. While it’s out you want to also do the rear main seal. If this is a 90’s EJ then also do the rear cam seals. Clutch alignment tool is what you’re describing. Often comes with a clutch kit , which you should get. It will have the disk , pressure plate , probably a release bearing and alignment tool as well.

I don’t recall having any problems running unleaded in the 1400’s. Probably the only Subaru engines to be concerned with in this case might be the earliest ones in the USA. The 360 ? Maybe the pre-1400 boxers too. ??

It’s in a 92-94 wagon. Take whatever you need that’s left except ..... Jesse needs the tranny.

Umm , I have a low miles 2.2 for sale. It’s up with Jesse - Subafreak in Canterbury. You can see it run. Send a PM and we’ll talk.

My first thought is a pulley went and you’re just feeling tension on the cam. Belt pushed the cam out. Maybe the weak metal gave in. But you’ll tell us soon. Don’t buy cheap. I know money is tight but if the car is important and you need the timing belt kit many folks will suggest you do it right and try to buy dealer parts , or a better make of aftermarket. But do beware ! Names we trusted recently have now slapped their name in lesser quality parts. So research current experiences.

Not sure where you are but I also saw this listing as it isn’t all too far from me and other USMB guys. I doubt you will need these but if you need some help with them let me know and maybe I can help out. But for now , just make the time. Start with basics. Remove the battery negative , drain oil , remove fans , 22mm socket and large pipe for the crank bolt , remove timing covers , and you’re on your way. Are you near CT ? With a board name like that I’d think VT lol Enjoy

Try the west coast dealers for older cars. Don’t waste your time with east coast or northern rust belt dealers. Good luck. If you want names I’m sure you’ll be seeing many. Subarupartsforyou is our local and generally good guys. Just not able to easily assist with any older parts.

Ok yes they are pot metal , sorry , I meant the outer plastic is what you get and no others. Several of us probably have an extra.

What color do you need ? There are no metal versions. Just get another one.

PRP has new windshield gaskets. And I have one new one left too. Ours ( the USMB Group ) were made the same time their batch was.

Either that or from under the cowl. See that cowl in front of your windshield ? Take it off and clean out any debris down in there. Then determine if you have any pinholes thru the rusty areas.

Oh man how I wish I were in Alaska. I’m stuck in hell - working class in Connecticut????

Reverse flush available to you ? Grab a fresh thermostat , some new Anti-freeze , and hit the place that does flushes. Not a bad idea no matter what the cause. If need be I can tell you the dashboards come out pretty easy , but I haven’t changed a heater core yet. I have one sitting waiting for a fail but so far still getting great heat.

I’m in CT and have radiators , even refurbished old school looking like new , and more parts too. Make a list and send it to me using the private message here , and/or post your list here and in the Wish List thread

20k out of a timing kit - IF that’s the case please let us know what you bought for a kit or belt. I sure hope it didn’t fail from being inferior. If you didn’t change pulleys - well that could cause a 20k failure. Enjoy the chase. It’ll be running again soon.

Yes , should see fuel flow. Pumps are easy to replace too. Plenty of info here. Turn the key to Start and listen for the fuel pump. It’s behind the rear passenger seat. Fold seat , pick up carpet - wagons have the plastic strip retainer - and see an oval shaped cover with Phillips screws and remove that. You’ll see the electrical connector and three rubber lines. That’s your baby ! Let us know what happened , please. Sounds like fuel since you reminded me to read better. Eric !!! Like button -

Timing belt. Take the passenger side end cover off (3 x 10mm head bolts ) and confirm.

Scratch that. I thought maybe he was thinking turbo block.

Just basic flat stock metal - you’ll be covering the holes at the exhaust ports that once had the EGR pipes. No need for pipes. I did this about 15 years ago.

If your seat is like my 92 Legacy then you’ll find a post I just put up not long ago on this subject. There’s a hard wire - very thin metal rod - which carries the pull of the handle you grab over to the opposite side seat rail release. That metal wire/rod needs to be replaced. You can use a flexible wire if you don’t have a stiff one. Pair of pliers and some patience and you can do it without removing the seat.