moosens

cjossy - I sent a PM to you. I have factory service manuals.

Very cool. I’m guessing you have the four spoke steering wheel and a clock too? Just went back and read , tachometer too. Lol

There’s at least two or three trannies here is you need one. All good , early top starter single range. If you’re in a pinch I could send one. Your description sounds like the differential but tough to tell.

I feel like a knucklehead - typical - but I know I saved those numbers but where they are now is beyond me. I sure will try to locate them. Pretty sure I saved the receipt from the dealer. Lots of guys seem to have the Factory parts manuals , and maybe even some posted online. Mine are not handy at the moment.

Ok

Those were all available as of a couple of years ago. Probably can still score. What was the tranny doing or not doing ?

1992 Legacy Sedan At first I thought it was completely frozen/locked in the down position. It seemed to not budge either way. But I managed to force the handle down and lock the backrest into a somewhat comfy position for the drive. Haven’t had a moment to take the seat out or get my eyes under it. Anyone else have this issue? Remedy ? Seat moves front to back just fine.

Sorry , but with that mileage and you having had the engine out - you should have done the clutch. So this time , if you are doing the work , you’ll get the clutch kit - a good one not the cheapest - and also do the rear main seal if you didn’t the first time. There is that “oil separator” plate you can also change out if it’s the original plastic one and if you didn’t the first time. Be sure you get a new clutch release (throw out) bearing and fresh wire clips to hold it in place. Enjoy

Oh I know. And let’s not talk about leftover bolts.

Geez , I just replaced the fuel filter , but I sure will check again. Just took the car out and can’t really smell it now. Thanks guys ! If it persists I’ll post back.

Just do it. Screw everybody else. There’s a $300 Loyale wagon up here not too far away that I would do the same to if I had room.

Yeah I actually have replaced those. And have a new one waiting in case. But that’s not the issue , or I’d not be able to fill the tank. It’s an old stale fuel smell. Not a new fresh gas smell. It’s most noticeable around the front of the car by the drivers side.

Fuel filler ? Or fuel filter ? I’ll double check but I’m pretty sure both are fine. Car is parked in the sun , over pavement not dirt.

Aged gasoline odor. Sits sometimes lately , say the last 3 months was used about 10 days worth of daily type driving and a few random short runs. My opening line refers to term of ownership. About a year and a half or so. It was driven daily until springtime this year.

Count me in as interested. That guy's came out mighty nice, from here. Enjoy the process.

Car has been ours for at least a year and a half plus. Original owner let it sit after typical light use. Then a young guy got his hands on it and you could tell he pulled it out of vegetation and also didn't know jack dook about the car. But his buddy helped him and this same guy acted as his agent and dealt with me , he told me how they were chasing fuel issues etc. When we got it home I went through the fuel pump and replaced it and generally checked the pickup and float etc. This because the car with half a tank or less would sometimes want to stall. But that was all many months ago. So what could be causing an old gas smell now? Canister ? To me it seems to be more stronger in smell from around the drivers side of the engine bay up closer to the windshield. Checked those lines feeding and returning and breathing and they all seem fine.

Car looks great.

Fuzzy memory but I'm thinking you just lower the pedal a little and that will allow the pin to travel out. I've been there , just no super clear memory of it. You'll get it. Hang in there.

And those aftermarket types often come with an end that is too big etc. Check your routing as mentioned ! And also check that your pedal box isn't cracked on the drivers side of it where the pivot pin is for the clutch pedal. That's a problem the previous generation had.

"i have an 83 GL Hatchback EA81 that needs a new carburator, it currently has a holly, but its beat up pretty badly, what would be a WEBBER replacement for this EA71 wagon and would the same exact one work for the EA81? not sure about the bolt patterns and sizes between these two engines.." Other folks know more than I do on this matter but I'm thinking the ea71 and 81 Weber replacements are likely the same. 32/36 with a manual choke - I believe.

And this Board also has a face dook Group.

"the thing is ill mess with everything on a car except when it comes to anything further past the head gaskets (inside engine block) and the carburator itself, but perhaps the carburator should be something i should overcome my fear of..." Yeah , I was the exact same way and I think you'll find many of us are still or were at one point. The carb rebuild kits are not so hard to get thru. If you do it have a small "sink" to dip the carb body in and soak it in appropriate fluid. Have air to blast too. Canned air can work. There's lots of info posted just have to dig a little. Finding new jets would be great but with cautious cleaning they'll likely be fine. The kits usually don't include jets but do have the accelerator pump and an air mix valve. There's a good sized population of knuckleheads like us over on the dreaded face book. You'll get lots of help there too. Private groups - just join up and enjoy. Face dook groups - Classic Subaru Network and Old School Subaru Group , can't go wrong there for starters.

Once upon a time there was Mill Supply. Try researching them and keep an eye open on eBay etc. Not very long ago one guy was selling his old Mill Supply rocker panels etc because he never got to his project and you know the rest.

Pin holes have caused the leak(s). Take the cowl off , take the dashboard out , lift the carpet , and use a flashlight or whatever pointing it down into the cowl area and look from the inside. Dash comes out easy , don't be scared - you're trying to save your ride. Pine needles and leaves etc build up down under the cowl and sit there until they cause the rot. Many many owners have ignored this and that's why many many old Subarus are gone. Also , PRP made our group here two batches of windshield gaskets. They have some in stock and I even have one or two left. Spend the money and get that gasket and again , don't be scared because I've done it so you can too. Get that sucker sealed up firstly. Then you're off hunting wire connectivity. As for the carb , most people jump over to a Weber , but in many cases you don't need to. Sounds like your carb is not set up right - sorry , I know a shop "did it" 10 months ago. To me that's my basic approach. Seal the body , check your wiring very thoroughly , and then go thru the carb one step at a time. Choke adjusted , idle , mix , and of course your timing too. It's a 79 so no points ignition that's a plus. Good luck. I have some factory service manuals if you're interested.

Keep following ! Lol Little of this , little of that ....