moosens
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Everything posted by moosens
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There is a black plastic flying saucer or top hat looking piece upstream of the carb. It's on the drivers side. That little beast breaks apart and small pieces of that black plastic have gotten lodged in the carb. We can laugh now , but Skip probably wanted to choke me after he drove my old 86 Brat back home after purchasing it from me. Well , he's going up and over the Appalachian mountains and the carb sticks open as he is heading downhill. That's the story. Go check that part and be careful as you remove the hoses. Also check the metal flaps on that other part I can't think of right now. It is metal and has four Philip screws you remove to expose the valve (metal flaps). Those also sometimes break apart and you want to check it anyways. That has the hard metal tubes going to and from it. Good luck.
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Bubba , looks like a good project you have there. Now that Martha doesn't own it anymore it should be a great little buggy. Where NB mentioned for sure. All early Subarus suffered that area. Don't be afraid to remove your dashboard. Another area is the front fenders up top. You might want to take those off and remove any foam tape stuff you might see. Subaru put that there for squeak suppression. But it holds water and rusts those fender tops even in dry climates. I just parked my old 78 4WD wagon probably for life now. The brake lines were a big issue. Protect them as best as you can. Good luck.
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Thanks Gary. I just found out these last hours that a guy I work with has a donor Legacy AWD wagon same generation that is sitting just waiting for someone like me to pick from it. Normally I would experiment and try any one of what was presented , but I'm just going for the straight swap. Back in the ancient days I recall people using the compressor for an air hose for filling tires. Can that happen with this system as well?
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Don't want lift. Using phone only currently , tough to find what people think exists here. Not saying those posts aren't there but searching as I can I'm not finding them. Cars is a 94 Legacy , most air ride posts I saw were XT. So as I'm reading GD's post again I'm wondering about those rears. Seems like you're telling me I can use the tops from the air ride units. Yes ? But I'm trying to avoid extra work so I'm seeking out drop in units complete. I'll try to check cars101 meanwhile.
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"The Right Stuff" has worked perfectly on my oil pumps for two cars at least and probably 200,000 miles between those cars. Subafreak advised me and he is a Subaru Tech. Yes , Fuji bond is great too. But you can save some money and I attest that it'll work.
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- Oil Pan Sealant
- Oil Pump Sealant
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1978 Subaru DL potential ignition problem.
moosens replied to penguu's topic in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
Yeah , check that float adjustment however Weber intends you do that. The issue with the leaky accelerator boots is the modern fuel causing them to melt , crack , and fail. I'm not sure if yours has a more modern material but I know from using old stock carb rebuild kits that even a fresh boot will fail way more quickly than you'd like it to. Just stuff to keep an eye on. keep it going ! Cheers! -
1978 Subaru DL potential ignition problem.
moosens replied to penguu's topic in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
Float bowl look ok thru the sight glass ? Accelerator pump boot leaky ? -
Car only has 97k on it but did sit in a garage much of its life and probably a long stretch before last fall going unused. Checked the fusible links and relays and fuses. My obvious engine harness grounds are all looking good and I will go over them again. Where should I look otherwise ? Have to double check but I'm pretty sure no switches are working at all. And yes I'm aware of the lock button. It's not just the master switch as I can see. Thanks for any help.
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Ahh , thank you. I'm pretty sure I'm going to convert to springs sometime sooner than later. But I'm not opposed to trying to salvage this system for kicks. Only 97k on it. But given its age I'd expect there to be issues with it. It raises well , lowers ok but seemed like the drivers front was sticking higher. Right now it seems level where parked. It is on a slight slope - but all corners seem about equal from tire to wheel arch.
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About your current ride and power plant , is that a GF or FE model? If it's an FE it's very efficient , thrifty , easy to maintain , and becoming collectible for someone continuing to use who prefers to keep the car more period correct.
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1979 GL vs DL BRAT differences?
moosens replied to Señor Brat's topic in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
I'm thinking the 79 was two headlight - unless you got the GL with quad lights. -
1979 GL vs DL BRAT differences?
moosens replied to Señor Brat's topic in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
Stuff like an AM/FM radio , although also an option , four spoke steering wheel , and I'll have to think but I'm sure I'm forgetting a couple other items. No difference in engine and gearing. -
Oh no ! But I'm guessing you'll be swapping pumps and doing timing etc and taking it over the 400k mark. Yes? Just finally turned 300k in NYC this past weekend.
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Have to adjust that cable way back now that you have the fresh , thicker guts in there. I also freaked out same as you and it was the end of a tiring day etc .... so I thought about it and came back the next day and adjusted that link way the F back and it then acted appropriately. Now that it's spring I need to fine tune my hill holder or elinate it. As mentioned - 1/4" or is it 1/8" ? You'll get it. Take your time.