moosens

Look into a Vermont title. info is out there and likely mentioned in this forum Not as worrisome as you may think. Best of luck. And congratulations on the solid body find. My opinion: install the D/R 5spd as it is the grand goddess of all the transmissions Subaru threw at us. And from speaking with a master tech years back I recall he mentioned getting an 88 or 89 would be best. Final revisions etc. Enjoy!

r a clutch replacement - engine to bellhousing ? and while we were at it, we also replaced the front axles, - only at the knuckle if you loosened to assist axle r&r outer tie rods,- not seeing a 14mm bolt there distributor cap/rotor, spark plugs/wires, - have all the wire supports if any, back in place? and both drive belts. - not timing belts right? Anything else you may have moved aside to assist access? 14mm head is a bit sturdy for something like an overflow bottle mount etc . Good mystery.

Oh man what were some of the things jokers used to toss in to hush loud clicks n clacks ? Sawdust was one, I can tell ya that. Not saying that’s the case but uh, ya never know. More jokers out there than ever. Good luck with it.

Hey bud pardon me for not clicking on your link just yet. So when you say brackets does that mean you don’t have that one humongous bracket that handles the A/C and the Alt/Water Pump ? Sorry I can’t really add a picture so easily these days.

Do we raise a stink so all box stores carry Classic Castrol ? (With zinc) I’ve found it at only a few of the many stops I’ve made.

That board that looks like all the soldering is up to spec and functional - but has a flicker still - I’d be considering baking the board but I’m no expert and only going by what I am pretty sure I’ve read a few times. Maybe get a jeweler’s eye or magnifying glass etc and check those soldering points especially at the connectors. The usual weak spot. It’s a 97 OBS the S for Sport so surely you’ve been thrashing it about once or twice, no ? All the wiggling and jiggling. Good luck with it.

Carlisle PA at the fairgrounds. Import Show. Third weekend in May every year. Just going through old post threads and rather than delet this one we can kick it around until next May.

Good luck with this one. Old days you’d have several folks chiming in.

You might void the warranty… ok I’m just kidding. I don’t think the engine will have any catastrophic event using that oil. But I’ll let you know what I heard growing up. We would be content using Castrol - “engineered for small car engines” - marketing spew. We would use 10w40 in winter , and 5w oil in the summer. Pardon me if I didn’t research on 5w/20 but I’m assuming it’s a more thin viscosity than the 10w. Generally as my Subarus got up in miles I would use the heavy weight oil pretty much all year. If you’re engine is really tight and not so worn then Yes you do notice a little sluggishness if you use heavy oil in winter. But that was probably only one or two of the many Subarus we have run. We enjoyed many Subarus of the EA era. The EA82 dual range is still a favorite of mine. But I’ve put all that era behind me quite a while ago. I keep 70’s Subarus going. Good luck keeping the 80’s going ! Enjoy!

This wagon just came my way last year. Only reason I’d sell is more vintage projects.

June 2nd this year 2024 I’m seeing that as a Sunday Get your vintage representation rolling and bring it !

They’ve emailed their first warning shot of the year. I’m pretty sure I’ll be there this year and with my 79 wagon. That is unless the wagon gets sold. If so then I’ll still likely go with my 94.

Hey hit me up with an email at moosens@yahoo.com and i can reply with a picture or more. Also having fun getting my 79 on the road. Sat in a NJ garage for decades. Luckily I don’t YET see and wiring issues but I expect I’ll find a mouse’s effort sooner or later.

I’m having a hard time imagining what might be different for ductwork between the two. Very likely the same. Those other connectors are for options or maybe for their diagnostic equipment at the time. But when I have a chance I’ll look through my parts catalog with the exploded views and see if I can be more helpful. Good luck and wise decision with the EJ22

Good luck with the knee Larry. and the car too..

Just getting tougher and tougher on us backyard wrenchers. Years ago I’d gotten JDM stuff from Jersey on our coast and a couple places out west. The quality was remarkable. But nobody really cares like they used to. The guy crating, the shippers, etc. Thanks for posting. Even though I’m getting to the age I should stop working so much on our cars I still cannot accept the new products they shove at us. So I can see myself still keeping our aging fleet going at least a few more years if not much longer. 1994 Legacy, 2003 Legacy wagon, 2003 Legacy sedan, 2006 Outback wagon and for now my true classic is my 1979 4wd wagon but that might be upgraded soon. Screw new !

Being you’re in MA don’t forget to check all associated grounding points and if you’re handy check that harness. Has to be a manual online somewhere. Maybe this helps. Pardon me for not investigating further but many of us have used this link. https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/

We had a 92 FWD automatic for a good number of years. I managed to find a replacement transmission from a board member back when. But I can tell you those transmissions are kind of tough to find. Only good thing is they are legitimate old lady transmissions and those are the few that still show up at yards or in your local. When they show up. But to me it’s a tough call. Given it’s age I would drain and refill the transmission. And the list I gave previously. Change the tranny filter. Not sure how involved you’d want to get but if you have a decent place to work on it maybe even drop the transmission pan and spray the cartridge and the valves etc. Nothing too crazy. You can also check the connectors while down and around there. Pan gasket and some RTV very lightly coated - but others may advise different methods. Fuji Bond is great and cheaper through a Nissan dealer from my local experience. But many of us have resealed those with RTV or another. As far as ignition again it’s tough but this reminds me of the old crack in the ignition coil deal. Any codes flashing ?

You’ve got the basics covered ? Like fresh fuel filter and confident of your injectors, plugs and wires? Then the ignition coil can also have a hairline crack in it. It’s an EJ22 so it’s a proven workhorse. I’ve had many now and still retain a daily driver 94 wagon.

Running with jumper wire to the fuel pump. Will need to sort out alternator, voltage regulator, and such. But it’ll start and run. The aged and dried out float chamber somehow was kind to me. Must be my angels. 😊 Next up I need to finish the front brakes and make it roll on down the road!!!

Only difference would be if it were a touring wagon with the raised roof. You’re good.

Any Loyale is the same as the squared body EA82 GL/DL wagon from 85-89 so you’re good on that one. Again, I wish you luck if doing your own removal and install. Maybe I’ve just been unfortunate. For sure these glass items front and rear become more difficult after the magical era of the late 70’s and early 80’s

Wow , looks like you’re going to TX or FL from my search Hang in there. Good luck.

Ahhh , double posted. And I see you’re down in MS. Has to be a tough spot for Subaru parts. At least you have the normal roof. You’ll score. Out west for sure. Please allow me to offer my opinion on backyard windshield removal- front or rear. Old school - no problem whatsoever, 80’s they get a little tricky, late 80’s (your car gen) they’re even more tricky and potential to break them increases mucho mucho. And I don’t bother with post Loyale Subarus. Leave those to the pros and open the wallet. Good luck.

No, sedans and wagons do not interchange. Is your wagon a touring wagon with the raised roof ? If so that’ll be a tough one but not impossible. If you have that style there are three methods of installation used by the factory and only 1500 of those in the USA. If you have a stock roofline then likely you’ll find what you need. At this point it may be easier to swap the entire hatch. But you should investigate that. Good luck.