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moosens

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Everything posted by moosens

  1. moosens
    Thanks for the input !
  2. moosens
    Thule 1050 series from back in the 80's , I have a set and have locking feet. But I'm in CT
  3. moosens
    Nice base to work with. Pretty sure I have the gas pedal. My old 79 was the same colors as yours. It's still going out east somewhere.
  4. moosens
    79 so you have all blue seats , correct? Not black along the sides of the bottom section? The blue in the 79's is the best year. Those carpets were like turquoise , sort of. Exaggerating a little but they really had a sweet color.
  5. moosens
    We have two old Legacys needing new struts. Both wagons. One FWD and one AWD. The FWD I need all Four for sure. Definitely need fresh mounts up front , probably all around. I was considering the average guy Excel-G series , does that sound fair enough for mostly smooth road , city and highway ? The AWD I might go for the next higher grade. But could easily settle for the same Excel-G's again. This car I might be able to just use the donor car fronts for some time going forward because it's a low mileage donor car. But I'm certainly buying new for the rear and require those fairly soon. Do you guys go thrifty and get the strut boots ( gaters) and bump stops and bits from different sources and different mfg's ? I see items like Monroe has a less expensive boot and seat rubbers etc. Are they decent enough or spend the money on bits with KYB ? I will unquestionably be buying all struts and top mounts KYB.
  6. moosens
    Those pillar covers show up randomly. Probably sold all mine. Back in the early 80's my brother took that cover and made a hinge so it opened and behind it he put the alarm lock. Just a story , probably not much reason to do that these days with modern alarms.
  7. moosens
    Got jumpseats too but I've seen a few sets recently out west and not so bad prices.
  8. moosens
    Color ? Looks like a blue interior but just want to be sure. I've got some seats that might help you out. I'm in CT. Stop on over. Lol Let me get to them and take some pics and entertain offers. Have an uncracked blue dash too.
  9. moosens
    Lastly , you can likely forget about the plastic chrome trim that sits in the rubber gasket. Not sure any have saved it and been able to transfer it over with real success. I also have a rear slider with a decent gasket around it. Old gasket , but not bad and I'm pretty sure those are impossible to get. Hopefully I'm wrong for the Brat folks.
  10. moosens
    And expect rust around that old windshield gasket. That's a given too.
  11. moosens
    You have to find every pinhole down under the cowl where the pine needles and leaves and crap accumulate. Use a light in that area while looking for pinholes of light from the interior. You're on the right track , just go 100% not 98%
  12. moosens
    Try Precision Replacement Parts for the windshield gasket. They sold us two batches which were fresh made from Thailand. Please post what you paid and the availability , which I hope you ask them how many they have left for the rest of the gang. Should you strike out I might have one I can sell. No promises. I also have some fenders from good solid used to some new old stock. There's a long line. But as I get into my storage unit I'll be pulling these items out and more. I have a front valance or two as well.
  13. moosens
    Aftermarket top mounts are junk. Should you actually need one or more do not waste your money on anything but dealer or KYB. I wish I had kept my originals. They were uncracked and working fine. These Chinese crap ones on my car were toast in no time at all. They look horrendous. Less than a year and they cracked. Another item on my list more earlier that expected all due to garbage I thought "could work". Bad move.
  14. moosens
    Aftermarket top mounts are junk. Should you actually need one or more do not waste your money on anything but dealer or KYB. I wish I had kept my originals. They were uncracked and working fine. These Chinese crap ones on my car were toast in no time at all. They look horrendous. Less than a year and they cracked. Another item on my list more earlier that expected all due to garbage I thought "could work". Bad move.
  15. moosens
    There you go. Ignore my post in the other thread. Just not my preference.
  16. moosens
    I think you have that backwards. Old days without an engine crane we would have one guy on either head and lift the early EA engines out without too much trouble. Of course having a crane helps. Harbor Fright - I was a sucker but I've had no complaints for like $99 or so. But if you don't have that money right now and don't have the strong back buddy I guess you could drop it all down but I'm not one to do it that way. Maybe someone else could chime in on that. You'll want to do your rear main seal too while it's exposed. Good luck.
  17. moosens
    Pretty sure I've got a factory service manual for the main line that could help you. Probably can find one online to peek at. There is a Brat Supplement manual but for what you're doing now the standard FSM will have your wiring diagram , etc.
  18. moosens
    There's a bunch to go over but try taking that fuse out and pull on both ends. I've had several do that - look perfect but have been shorted under the cap and the cap be loose enough that it'll pull off easily. Hoping it's that silly for you.
  19. moosens
    When I get to it I know I have a complete heater box that has all the links on it. The only other links are the thin ones from the selector levers. Has to be gen two for brats to have vacuum actuated controls.
  20. moosens
    Right but it caused my phone internet to start doing the boogaloo. My apologies if it's my phone.
  21. moosens
    That was some b/s I just went through clicking on your link. Wtf ?
  22. moosens
    pardon the double post that was here
  23. moosens
    Thanks ! Yeah I got that one out and it fell into hell. Too hot ! Turn it down !!
  24. moosens
    Ahh , thought I remember using a right angle Phillips. Can also remember struggling but getting them with a stubby Phillips. Back in the Loyale days. Thanks ! One thing though. I could swear when I looked in there I saw Four Phillip screws to the ceiling of that compartment. That got me scared. Lol I'll find out when the heat moves on if those two rear screws go thru the faceplate , but I tend to think not. Getting old ! Damn ....
  25. moosens
    Sorry to ask. I've actually done this stuff before which makes it even harder to ask. Blame it on the heat. I just couldn't suffer anymore and figured I'd give the USMB a try. So , I clearly see the two screws atop of the faceplate where the cup holder is. What else is holding that faceplate on ? In calmer times I would have it done. But it's super hot up here and no a/c and no real shade either so I bailed out. Forgive me !! Lol This unit in the car has the stash pocket below the radio. The one going in is the same style. All I need is a refresher on where those other Phillip screws are. Pulled the ashtray - saw nothing there. I saw one way deep in the back , centered. I took it out and naturally it fell down inside there. Got frustrated and packed it up with much sweat on the brow. Stay cool , and thanks for any help.
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