moosens

I wouldn’t complain much about either of those prices given where we live. Yeah Perkins quoted $650 doing it while on the car. Subafreak is going to hook me up next few weeks. He’s way up in the other end of the state. And I’m lucky to get some of his time. But he’s a Subaru tech. Not sure who’s around down this end of the state. Used to be Angelo off exit 16 in Norwalk. Can’t think of any Subaru specially shops or side gigs from dealer techs like I used to have a small network of.

How soon does it have to go ? It keep threatening to take over a friend’s 98 Outback , pretty solid for up here but still from up here so I’d expect I’d want a bunch of stuff from under the vehicle. Still have never put one from that generation on the road. Tried to avoid them but I think I’m going to take this 98 on. Again, been threatening. He says name my price…. So I’m sure it’ll be cheap enough. Theirs is a manual shift. Love that. No longer need’s emissions here. So this car is good to go. You’re in COSprings?

Anybody install those “Limited Edition” production shocks that were sold by RA during a short period this past year. Their tag says A Service of Monroe Auto Equipment Co Side by side to the units that came out of my 79 4WD wagon these new units are about two inches shorter when compressed and also about 1/2 inch when expanded. The body of the newer units are slightly more stout. Taking a shot here even though the traffic isn’t what it once was. I’m just more and more sick of Fayse Dook, sorry about that.

I think you mentioned what to avoid already. More experienced folks may add but that’s the nutshell version. And that’s just my opinion. I’m not a mechanic. Long time user and abuser. And in that regard I can report I/we have had much success with the third generation Legacys. Personal preference is first gen but I can see where you’re daughter would gag at the thought. We currently have two third gen Legacys and one fourth gen “Outback” Legacy. They’re all ok but the more new the more difficult for the backyard guy to work on - and I think you’ll hear that option repeated. Praise to your wise daughter.

Any NON-Coupe windshield from any other 70’s car will work. But especially the “Stage 2” 1977 and 78,79 Tell your guys that and have them search again. Good luck.

I realize where you’re at but Jerry is a great guy and out there in the Cascades so I’m sure he can make a little time for you for one more inquiry. Hoping I get to shake his hand again this year. But that’s another story. Sorry , I don’t bother with much modding at all so I’m no help. But you made a good move getting away from the four speed. My opinion. Good luck.

Can only guess same as above from the metal.

This should sell some magnetic drain plugs.

So you’re wanting to show up back at the restaurant and hope to do a quick swap there and drive away ? Your choice but I drive nothing but older cars so I have AAA Plus - some years I use all allotted services. I recall similar issues that era. As I recall you can always use the smaller one in place of the larger. But I’m a user and abuser and not a mechanic. Get both and return the unused ?

Jess might just have an EA71 in his come to think of it. But it’s worth looking into.

Starter location. Maybe bolt location too. I think you’d need an adapter plate. If you don’t mind the dreaded face book you can likely come across Jesse Navin on the couple of vintage Subaru dedicated groups like 4x140 or GTFO , or Old School Subaru etc etc He’s here in CT with. Stage one - 1974 and has already done the swap. Good luck with it. I agree that suddenly the EA71 has really started to vanish.

Yeah it’s just close , sort of , and interesting. From his write up I’m guessing he’s not taking $200 or even $500 but no big deal. After your educating me I can more easily let this rest.

“Do you think it slid through the covid cracks?” No way of telling but it’s on the books so I’m happy. CT has been covering the low end car users for a solid three decades now. No physical inspection unless a major accident or value/cost situation like mine. Just emissions for vehicle 25 years and newer. And out of state cars just need a VIN verification which is just an employee looking through the windshield. Cheap SOB’s like me at least have it good that way here in CT. They won’t change much here regarding laws and policies because they need the working class service folks for the wealthy.

Thanks guys. I am recovering fairly well but I’m not going to say too much. Yes Dave I have my stories too , so don’t jinx me !! LOL

Pricing closed deck ej22T Only thinking about a project. That’s it. Only dreaming. So what’s this worth in your opinion? Keep in mind this is in the NYC area and there’s no shortage of spoiled kids with too much money. From posting on C’list: more ads by this user F/S is a 2.2 turbo engine from a 1994 legacy sedan. The engine was removed complete including the harness, turbo, part of the downpipe, etc. This is a rare engine being the only closed deck 2.2 and factory turbo 2.2 besides that of the 22B. Donor car was an automatic and indicated just over 88k miles. The engine currently has a 02+ WRX crank gear and modified EJ22 cam gear so it can be ran with a 02+ WRX computer - the original gears are included. Also available are several harnesses, computers, etc for swapping this engine into a newer chassis, beetle, whatever. This is a hard engine to price, make me an offer Thanks for any opinions regarding price. Cheers!

Thanks ! That’s an Outdoor Sport edition 1994 with following generation 15” wheels. Continuing the story here in 2023 that lovely green wagon has just been re-registered which is a kind of big deal. The car was rear ended in 2021 and I’m still getting Chiropratic care for that. But the big deal ( my body doesn’t mean much because it’s just a life of self abuse) is that the car was totaled out by the offenders insurance but somehow I’ve eluded the State inspections etc etc. Maybe they’ll catch up to me but I was told back when I got the fat check that it may need inspection to keep on the road. Then someone said if I sell that car then the next owner will have to have it inspected. Bottom line is the State DMV sent me a re-register form and I quickly did it online and here I am with another two years of gen one Legacy ownership. Rock Da House ! There’s your story of the day kids. Stay outta trouble!

Ahhh , I edited because I can see you’d likely rather keep this car than get another from out west. I’ll stop back when I’m more awake. Also in CT

Right , I did at least one time mark the eccentric and get it done. I shouldn’t be so tepid. But in this case with all the BS I just don’t have the time for or space etc as explained. It’ll get done by someone like the dealer. Maybe if I’m lucky our man Subafreak is available sooner than later.

Jerry makes good ummm , specialty liquor too. Best of luck with it.

Yeah probably on the list of things to just shut up and open the wallet for. My dream method involves not removal of anything but the bearing. But I’m dreaming. So maybe next question would be this: If I do remove the knuckle and mark everything clearly (eccentric, linkage) the alignment should stay well enough that I can drive it to the local Firestone where the car has a lifetime alignment ? Suspension/linkage stuff is like right behind electrical for jobs I’d prefer to leave alone or to the person who works those daily. Car is our queen of the fleet. Survived well and shows it. The dog is NOT allowed in this car. So yeah I should throw money. But it is super solid with minimal corrosion. Wouldn’t be so hard to do the work but things are different for me being a condo owner and no garage etc. so not buying the press, not freezing the bearing and heating the hub. But I would if I had your place maybe. Enjoy your home, garage, and driveway and remember I’m envious.

Basically is there and easy enough backyard method to save some money ? The dealer has the special ram tool for this , yes ? So the hub/knuckle doesn’t have to come off the car. No need to do an alignment that way too I’d guess. But what can a thrifty guy like myself do to get around the dealer? Thanks. And the lady at the service counter said it’s around $200 for the parts. Really ? Their dealership also has one of the nations highest volume Subaru online parts websites. By their website I see it more like $54 in parts. Forget about labor here in the money belt. They want like $500 in labor and they admit they have the ram/press tool to make it a half hour job or so. If I spent the money it wouldn’t kill me. But I can’t help myself still. Age has given me lots of messages but my thick skull shields me.

Broken right front axle at the outer end. Not used to this happening. Yeah I can carry on with reasons/excuses why it takes me so long to get to things like this - sometimes. To cover my insecure backside I will say - life gets in the way ! Sound familiar? Cheers! And I’d like to thank whoever is in charge of the weather this winter. Let me know where to leave a tip.

Congrats on both. Idaho car - I think I missed that one. What color ? Hope we get together this summer. For sure I have at least one EA81 down here at another guys place upstate. Closer to you. Keep in touch. Ciao !

As stated. Now here’s a tip. Over on the dreaded face book there’s a guy on a few of “our” forums by the name of David Melcher. I suggest you contact him immediately. He has supplied to me the exact same parts. Mine were for EA71 1970’s Subarus but it’s the same situation through the 80’s and the EA82 here. I do realize it’s more common on the earlier ea71 and ea81 vehicles but has also happened on Loyales. David is top notch. Great person doing extraordinary things for the used Subaru owners community. I just received two boxes of vented disk calipers with parking brake lines and backing plates from David to upgrade my 79 wagon from the nasty first gen calipers and solid rotors. And I’d gladly continue to buy from a guy like him. Best of luck !

Scroll down this thread and see the pedal box repair one or more guys did. That will explain and guide you. The third gear synchro issue is mostly with shifting into third but as time goes on it’ll start popping out of third. Then second and fourth when it gets awful. With the amount of 80’s 4WD Subarus out there still I’m kind of surprised nobody has run off some batches of synchro rings. What are they - brass ? Or something soft. Best of luck with your move.