moosens

Guy on eBay had a gas tank that just ended. Listing said shipping to my zipcode was like $167. Youch!!! That was ups ground. FYI

You DO NOT want an EA63 EA71 , for sure. Good luck.

I should have that. Will check this week.

General note to all, very sorry for my delay. It's all due to work and family. Just very busy with both. Working typically seven days a week with the main job and much work secondary. Also trying to finish a room for my daughter. Hang in there and trust me I really need to blow out storage and just get items out that I will probably never get to use. Hope to bring items to you folks waiting very soon. And as luck would have it after this drawn out winter we're supposed to get rain all weekend which hurts the storage effort. Thanks for your patience and understanding. Cheers!

But I do think there are differences from Stage I '72-'77 and Stage II 77-79 Glad that worked out for you.

Yes yes yes lol

No sweat. I'll check but I think you mean for the Brat, right? I might still have a set. If not ctsuba does.

Pretty sure it's the same. Good luck.

rv , thanks I will try the locals ! sp , I do have flat spoke 70's Jackmans. Good for strip and coat. Very fine condition just want to freshen them. I really should go through my PM's since I'm pretty sure you'd be third in line, maybe second. Sorry to make folks drool but a also have a new in boxes set of four that are for a future restoration. Those have the flying saucer center caps with them so I'd only sell at gunpoint. Lol I'm pretty sure I have good used center caps for those Jackmans. They've also shown up on eBay at times. Look for an update or ask near the end of the week if I don't post by then.

Yeah. It was warm yesterday but is dropping again. I barely got to storage to hunt for headrests etc. but had too little time to mess around there. I'll get back there this coming week after the cold snap. They're calling for snow Tuesday but either way I'll get back by the end of the week. I'm sure I have a windshield for you. Boxing it up will be fun.

I've got plenty which I'll gladly sell cheap enough as soon as I can. The 81 reprint will help some but that might be for the wide case engine (1600). I will get a 77-78 set aside for you ASAP and throw in a Haynes too. Maybe a Clymer too. Carb has some changes going forward into the 80's with the 1600's Talk to you soon

Gee, I thought quad lights rule. But eight is GREAT !! Looks ready for action!

Also noticed this over they years. Thanks for posting. I have replaced a few fuses, and found the block hot at the bottom , but have yet to spend time on it. Hopefully spring gets me working on that and other issues with my 78.

A/C parts are not found in the factory manuals. Pilot bearings can be found on eBay. A seller who is also here has them. " topcatwhimsy" I think is the eBay name. Rear main seal is what you are looking for. Those are the same for many years and at least two generations.

Is that body solid? If left as a roller please let us know as long as the underside and wheel aprons are solid.

I've been hunting trannies. There are some around and you can do the work or pay for one to be worked and still have a reasonably cheap and highly effective ride. Ignore F & S parts prices online and deal with them direct. These people with FWD trannies know they aren't selling them here so you should be able to get one for under $200.

Mine is a 92 with 228k FWD and looks great with only a minor spot where expected - the same you mentioned excepting the hood. I have kept mine up well and have nice alloys , no oxidation , but do also have the above mentioned tranny main bearings on their way south. You'd never get mine for $800, it's too valuable as a reliable car/truck But $1500 isn't bad for CT. Something people who live in the northeast know. It's really really hard to find those great cars at great prices up here anymore. And scammers and flippers run rampant. Smell for windshield leak. Listen for wheel bearings. Check suspension. Good luck.

ctsuba has sets too , but I'm sure he's want a good $20 per wheel or so and you're looking at around $17 per wheel shipping if grouped together. He has late 70's and early 80's. Also has Loyale too. My second job wraps up this week so end of the week I'll get my stock out of storage.

Plenty of rebuilts out there. You'll not find new. Maybe Danny W (drivesubies) , but that's about it. Good idea to save all your bits 'n pieces just incase. The tiny hairpins , the funky bent wire clips , the spacers..... You can still score packs of those hardware too. One issue to check - while its on my mind and in my car - is the faulty pedal box. The bracket which holds your brake and clutch pedal. It tends to get a shear in the thin metal over on the left side where the pivot pin meets the left side of that 'box'. It'll make you nuts trying to adjust the clutch. Infact it gets to a point where you CANNOT adjust it even if a NEW cable is installed. Get your nose down there and inspect it from the left looking inward and from the inside of the box looking outward too. Any sign of a slight crack I suggest taking it out and having it welded or reinforced in a manner which doesn't conflict with the pedal action. You'll get it back to a happy state. Patience is key.

Caution !! There are two versions of those with different sized fittings at the end. the later version starts in late '78 for the '79 model year. Be sure to communicate with whoever you get them from and measure twice - buy once ! Cheers!

Looks like it'll melt the cover being so well hung. LOL I saw the same shape as the originals on eBay ....anyone use those?

And as mentioned above opening the bleeder will make it a bit easier to turn those pistons in. But that also gets messy if you don't have a bleeder hose going into the catcher of your choice. Coffee can for me. Best bet is to totally drain that old brake fluid and have someone with you to pump the pedal when you bleed the brakes. Some folks have the self-bleeder which allows you to do it all by yourself but I'm still in old school mode here. I've actually done them myself without a second person using a 2x4 and the seat. Yup , and it worked. The foam of the seat will compress and when you open the bleeder you get enough travel to get air bubbles out. might take at least two or three repetitions but when you're all alone you get it done. Assume all fluids need replacing. If I can find it in my manuals there's a preferred starting point - as in the furthest brake - working up to the front left I think. 4 jack stands are a must. Clear bleered hose so you can see the last of the old stuff going out. I think that is 3/16 inside diameter , but double check that.

Outstanding !! What year did they start selling Subarus over there?

It does sometimes get frustrating. Best bet is to turn them all the way in until the rubber seal is flush to the top of the piston. If the seals are torn up be sure to replace them , not being lazy like me on my '92 ..... I'll get them in the springtime. But anyways , do all you can while you have it in your hands. Clean up hardware , or replace as you can. I don't think I have to tell you , but more for anyone working on these old cars.The right side always takes more abuse over time with rain on the side of the road ,etc. Lots to do here , will check back tomorrow. Cheers!

Good job !! Just curious what you paid and if they arrived ok. I once bought a set of heads from some "racing" company in FL and the guy sent them clanking together with no padding ,etc. and that just wizzed me off. Check with Danny W - drivesubies here on dannybreadman on eBay for factory headgaskets and valve rocker covers ,etc ..... Good luck !!