moosens

Gee, I thought quad lights rule. But eight is GREAT !! Looks ready for action!

Also noticed this over they years. Thanks for posting. I have replaced a few fuses, and found the block hot at the bottom , but have yet to spend time on it. Hopefully spring gets me working on that and other issues with my 78.

A/C parts are not found in the factory manuals. Pilot bearings can be found on eBay. A seller who is also here has them. " topcatwhimsy" I think is the eBay name. Rear main seal is what you are looking for. Those are the same for many years and at least two generations.

Is that body solid? If left as a roller please let us know as long as the underside and wheel aprons are solid.

I've been hunting trannies. There are some around and you can do the work or pay for one to be worked and still have a reasonably cheap and highly effective ride. Ignore F & S parts prices online and deal with them direct. These people with FWD trannies know they aren't selling them here so you should be able to get one for under $200.

Mine is a 92 with 228k FWD and looks great with only a minor spot where expected - the same you mentioned excepting the hood. I have kept mine up well and have nice alloys , no oxidation , but do also have the above mentioned tranny main bearings on their way south. You'd never get mine for $800, it's too valuable as a reliable car/truck But $1500 isn't bad for CT. Something people who live in the northeast know. It's really really hard to find those great cars at great prices up here anymore. And scammers and flippers run rampant. Smell for windshield leak. Listen for wheel bearings. Check suspension. Good luck.

ctsuba has sets too , but I'm sure he's want a good $20 per wheel or so and you're looking at around $17 per wheel shipping if grouped together. He has late 70's and early 80's. Also has Loyale too. My second job wraps up this week so end of the week I'll get my stock out of storage.

Plenty of rebuilts out there. You'll not find new. Maybe Danny W (drivesubies) , but that's about it. Good idea to save all your bits 'n pieces just incase. The tiny hairpins , the funky bent wire clips , the spacers..... You can still score packs of those hardware too. One issue to check - while its on my mind and in my car - is the faulty pedal box. The bracket which holds your brake and clutch pedal. It tends to get a shear in the thin metal over on the left side where the pivot pin meets the left side of that 'box'. It'll make you nuts trying to adjust the clutch. Infact it gets to a point where you CANNOT adjust it even if a NEW cable is installed. Get your nose down there and inspect it from the left looking inward and from the inside of the box looking outward too. Any sign of a slight crack I suggest taking it out and having it welded or reinforced in a manner which doesn't conflict with the pedal action. You'll get it back to a happy state. Patience is key.

Caution !! There are two versions of those with different sized fittings at the end. the later version starts in late '78 for the '79 model year. Be sure to communicate with whoever you get them from and measure twice - buy once ! Cheers!

Looks like it'll melt the cover being so well hung. LOL I saw the same shape as the originals on eBay ....anyone use those?

And as mentioned above opening the bleeder will make it a bit easier to turn those pistons in. But that also gets messy if you don't have a bleeder hose going into the catcher of your choice. Coffee can for me. Best bet is to totally drain that old brake fluid and have someone with you to pump the pedal when you bleed the brakes. Some folks have the self-bleeder which allows you to do it all by yourself but I'm still in old school mode here. I've actually done them myself without a second person using a 2x4 and the seat. Yup , and it worked. The foam of the seat will compress and when you open the bleeder you get enough travel to get air bubbles out. might take at least two or three repetitions but when you're all alone you get it done. Assume all fluids need replacing. If I can find it in my manuals there's a preferred starting point - as in the furthest brake - working up to the front left I think. 4 jack stands are a must. Clear bleered hose so you can see the last of the old stuff going out. I think that is 3/16 inside diameter , but double check that.

Outstanding !! What year did they start selling Subarus over there?

It does sometimes get frustrating. Best bet is to turn them all the way in until the rubber seal is flush to the top of the piston. If the seals are torn up be sure to replace them , not being lazy like me on my '92 ..... I'll get them in the springtime. But anyways , do all you can while you have it in your hands. Clean up hardware , or replace as you can. I don't think I have to tell you , but more for anyone working on these old cars.The right side always takes more abuse over time with rain on the side of the road ,etc. Lots to do here , will check back tomorrow. Cheers!

Good job !! Just curious what you paid and if they arrived ok. I once bought a set of heads from some "racing" company in FL and the guy sent them clanking together with no padding ,etc. and that just wizzed me off. Check with Danny W - drivesubies here on dannybreadman on eBay for factory headgaskets and valve rocker covers ,etc ..... Good luck !!

Wait , there is a cheapy item you can buy and it'd be worth it to have it over time. It's a little box shaped tool that fits in a 3/8" drive ratchet extention. It has a few different shapes protruding from each side of the cube and you'll find one shape fits in those slots just fine enough. You can score one at your local parts place. Here's on on eBay super cheap !!! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Powerbuilt-Disc-Brake-Piston-Tool-648410-/291052998454?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item43c41c4f36&vxp=mtr And another !! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Disc-Brake-Piston-Tool-/111283498321?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item19e9036d51&vxp=mtr We're here to help. Really want to see you keep your ride and be proud of it rolling and stopping someday.

No sweat. I'm totally unaware of where this is and lots more details.' Basically saying what you are , Jon. That the shell is worth that to a fellow freak like myself who actually has parts to help it, etc. So where is it?

Is it a coupe or hard top? I can't remember right now but I think they are hard tops.

I'd be one of the very few people that would pay $500-600 for an FE in the condition you mention. I have a windshield and a good amount of interior pieces. What color interior? Depending on location it's going to cost me from a few hundred to $1k for transport. But an FE should make money back in gas savings , not that matters much when buying a vintage novelty car. But I would use it often unlike a lot of people.

No sweat , just that I personally don't have a whole lot of time lately. I'll help you out as will several of us who have already been down this road. This is the little slice of life I have for enjoyment , my little old 4WD wagon and the other vintage babies that have come and gone. I hope you get the same enjoyment out of yours. Subaru3 - todd is also a huge help but has been excessively busy/involved with a move up north , eventually. There's others who will help , you'll see. ...and the suckerking .... Currently working 7 days a week on the main gig and doing a second gig all 5 weekdays .... so , you can imagine who thin my time is. Family first , this stuff down the line. Cheers !!

Pine Barrens !!!!! Welcome. I'll typically post that my son and I are going to the Barrens to do some Subaru exercise , fishing , etc.... Without looking I'm guessing you're town is up north ...? Enjoy the board like we enjoy the Barrens. Cheers!

Jon , look for the R or L on the caliper. On my phone now and can't see with the shadow in the shot. Should be the end letter. CMJ - the lower bolt pulls out and the top one is the hinge. Those are 14mm heads. Try using a piece of wood or metal drift of some sort at the lower "ear" of the caliper. If the wheel moves you should be able to get it to swing out with a few good whacks.

Right , I consider my old Subaru a po' mans classic too. My only point was that you wouldn't be short changed if you spent some on the body as long as it doesn't go overboard. We here have already faced that fact that these will not be Barret-Jackson etc. auction cars.

And then you'd have about $7k into it and that'd be on par with the value.

If you can get the body solid enough the rest is fairly inexpensive to improve or manage.

Really sorry. When the seller did not reply to my questions I knew it was less than the cut off pictures were telling. Cut off shots tell you something right there. Good luck.