Subaru Jim Maple Ridge

I have an 87 EA82T that will overheat every time I climb continuously for more than 1 or 2 kms. It did it once last year as an auto and twice this year as a DR. The speed is approximately 20 kph, about 2000 RPM in 2nd low. I drive this car all the time and it never overheats, not on the highway, in traffic or just sitting. The rad, 180 thermo and water pump are all new, and the coolant is fresh. The temp can be kept below the red by putting the heater on full. Rad fan thermo is bypassed. Is there a design flaw or a mechanical reason for the overheating? I have been up both mountains many times with carburated and single port cars with no problems.

In BC, we get 90 octane 5% ethanol fuel for the price of 87 regular. Yes, it does run hotter, less power and lower mileage, but it sure gets the cars through air scam. It also does NOT respond positively to the addition of acetone.

Do you mean the dash itself or the two pendant boxes on either side of the wheel?

We are running 10% ethanol in Vancouver, with only a minor drop in mileage. My brother just put a single range 4WD tranny and diff from an XT into an '87 sport coupe SPFI. The ratio is 3.7, and with stock tires, he is getting in excess of 40 MPG. Granted, he does a large %age of highway driving, (using cruise), and tries to keep it below 70 MPH (110 kmph). It is fine out on the highway, but around town it does feel like you are starting out in second gear, about the same as running 15" tires. There are many factors affecting mileage, driving habits, engine tune, dragging brakes etc.. I deal mostly with wagons, and a 2WD 5sp will get high 40's, a 4WD 5sp will get around 40, and autos will get low 30's. 3.9 does seem to be the best fit for the non-turbo cars. If you are still getting poor mileage, ease up on the pedal or look for the gas leak.

Zefy says you got our $ by snail mail yesterday. Sorry to take so long but he's a busy lad. I'll pick up any left-over gaskets that you don't want to be stuck with. I offered earlier but it was Zefy's story to tell. Thanks for making this happen. Jim 604-466-6860

Sounds like you broke an ear off the cam housing. If it won't leak oil, just use the other hole. If it broke far enough to leak, you will have to change it. I'm sure lots of members have one for you if you need it.

Where is Mount Gambier?

I have been playing with subys for a long time, and I found out a long time ago that you will not outsmart these people. The power system, aka motor, is an intricate and balanced unit. A very small unit doing a very big job, quite reliably, for a very long time. Few other can brag of the same longevity, reliability or versatility. I have found that most problems can be traced to history. Every vehicle has a prior history, usually unknown. Your exhaust anomoly would be a good place to start, but don't accept that a rebuild is perfect, or that someone hasn't changed something since then. You might want to check the belt timing, the cap & rotor, wires plugs, air filter, vacuum hoses; and set the mixture screw to 1and 3/4 turns out from full in. Good Luck.

You should be able to tell where the problem is by looking at the plugs. If only one side is wet, it will be the intake gasket. If they are all wet, it will be a bad turbo. Both problems are common enough.

Could be that the shifter was not fully in park, or the neutral safety switch could be too dirty. A worn key will also cause the ignition switch to stop turning before the solenoid circuit is completed. If you have a factory key with the number on it, a locksmith can cut a new key using a web service they have.

You don't have to cut a bigger hole, you just need to find a DR console the right colour for your interior. You'll have to do some wiring if you want the Lo light to work on the dash.

Yes, sounds like vacuum or fuel. Could you post some pics of the motor as well as the vehicle? We've never seen a 1990 EA81 Outback. I do know that when I was in Mexico in 1980, the Datsun dealer was selling '72 models as new 1980's. Could open a few doors for vintage parts for other members if we can find out where the unsold inventories go.

different animals, sorry.

I know that the old DR 5sp trannies can be put in, but I'm more interested in the lower final drive ratios from the Legacy series, around 4.11 or better. Larger tires without sacrificing gearing would be optimum, and not having to change the rear diff would be a bonus.

Pardon my ignorance, but what is a Vitara? You have to realize that the same car will have different names in different countries, so, from the lack of responses, I would guess that noone knows what you are talking about. Rule of thumb though, it is usually the easiest to replace what was already there. Anything can be done, depending on how badly you want it.

Thanks for all of the replies. Now, does anyone know roughly how much a good tranny would be worth ? Will they bolt up to both 2.2 and 2.5?

Take care that the pullies line up perfectly. The replacement pumps may match the OE specs, but the compressed OE gasket is 2 mm, while most replacement pumps come with thin paper gaskets. They stop the leaks, but the pullies don't line up, belt dies a couple months down the road, probably when you can do the least about it.

Rack is cool, and the lights would look great mounted across the bottom of the air deflector.

Check previous page, posting #19 by fangster, so specific that it confuses. Not sure how all of that info relates specifically to Subaru; this fellow is too knowledgeable in Jeep and other fixed axle animals. Further to the original thread, Zefy and I played with the toy this afternoon for a couple of hours, going as far as pulling the top covers from the RX tranny and a spare DR 5sp lying about. With the touted 'center diff lock' disengaged, spinning the input shaft with a clutch plate could turn the rear output shaft only, not a driveshaft, even if you held both front outputs. With the center diff engaged, the rear output did turn the shaft. Any power sent to the rear with diff disengaged would be minimal at best, neglible would be my choice word. Could it be that there are viscous friction dics? Are they subject to damage from abuse? As to previous mention, the electrical plugs are identical to all '85 and '86 DR trannies, and I don't even know what I did with the dist to check that connector. Will someone who knows PLEASE put this thread to rest?

On a thread in the old gen section, a member makes mention of a dual range tranny in Legacys that was available in some countries. We have only single range 5 sp and 4 sp auto here. Anybody know more about this?

Cool website. Too bad Subaru gets only passing mention. I would still like to see a detailed schematic of the RX tranny we are talking about, the dual range with the center diff lock.

As long as the electrical connectors are the same, the MAFs are interchangeable.

It appears that I stand corrected. I'll have to prove it for myself ( with Zefy present) by inserting a drive shaft in the rear and turning the input shaft. The tranny has an electric over vacuum actuator operating a shifter at the rear of the tranny, the same as all of the single range 4WD 5speeds. When I saw this tranny, I assumed that it was a dual-range with the 4WD function removed from the transfer lever. Doesn't look like Zefy is going to let this one go for a while.

You compensate for wear by adjusting the nuts towards the front of the car. You should set the pedal height as low as you are comfortable with. If it still slips, you need to replace the clutch.

The intake plumbing is shorter for an XT, just get one for a sedsan or wagon. The best way to screw with wiring is not to. Keep the original engine harness with the car. You can use a pitman arm puller to move the bolting flange out on the water pump.