Subaru Jim Maple Ridge

Steering vibration could be caused by worn wheel bearings, loose ball joints or tie-rod ends, bent rims or unbalanced tires. CV joints are not likely to cause a vibration except under load. Did the problem develop slowly or just started? Touch a curb or lose a wheel weight?

I just went through the TPS nightmare on an '87 EA82T. I ended up changing the plugs on the harness to a single 4 pin to use the newer TPS. I used the TPS from a spider XT so no, the wiring should not need to be changed. Two circuits, one for the idle switch, and the other to sense throttle position. Look to the manual for troubleshooting procedure.

Presuming that you are asking for the location of the temperature sensing unit, it is at the back of the intake just in front of the knock sensor. The unit at the thermostat is just the sending unit for the dash guage.

Many GL10 cars in '85 and '86 were EA82T's factory, 2WD or otherwise. The fuel pump from a carbed car will not push injectors anyway, your fuel filter is probably beside the wiper motor, about 3" diameter, you have a turbo car. You really can't mix and match because you are talking apples and oranges.

I buy a lot of cars, and, for your own self respect, you should make sure that your family friend knows that the problems are probably minor. At 96k it probably only needs belts, seals and the oil pump rebuilt. I routinely buy cars with supposed problems, and in one case, returned the vehicle to the owner. I refrain from phoning the sellers back and telling them the real score, although I would sometimes dearly love to. When I suspect that there is little or nothing wrong with a car, I usually just make a comment to that effect and pay the full asking price. Be kind to your family friend, nobody WANTS to sell their Suby, it's just that they aren't willing to pay for the repairs that it needs. Maybe she will give it to you when she is done with it, just for being honest.

I used to have lots of problems with those cars. The most common culprit was the fuel pump relay, followed closely by the crank angle sensor WIRES in the distributor, usually just the spade connectors, and the worst was a signal wire broken inside the insulation, at the coil. The fastest check is to run a hotwire to the fuel pump and see if it starts. If it does, you can resolve it fairly quickly. If no change, you're in for a long week today.

What Ross said. Disconnect the fuel line, take off solenoid wire, hold key to start and pump most of your problems away. Hook it all back up, fresh gas, oil and fiter, and try not to bag it too hard until she knows your first name. Enjoy.

You have to go back to the basics when blowing off the cobwebs, i.e. spark, fuel and timing. Spark is easy, pull off the coil wire at the coil, hold it half an inch away and get someone to roll it over for you. You either have spark or you do not. Timing should not have changed if you've done nothing to it. You could still check the cap and rotor for any obvious problem. Fuel might prove to be a big bother. I hope you pumped the tank dry before you put in fresh gas. A new filter is then the first order of business. Next, the float and bowl have to be cleaned as the fuel that evaporated probably left a pile of crystalized crap behind which turned to mush when you introduced new fuel. The float could be stuck open which will flood the cylinders and cause wet plugs, hence no start. Try to understand when people want more specifics when you post. All we can do is speculate about your problem, rather like a vet with a farmer on the phone.

Just a guess, but I think all the power (and grounding) in those harnesses depend upon the switch on the left front door, regardless of which window you are playing with.

I have had little luck with Bars Leak, I use Gunk Heavy Duty Block Seal. This used to be available in an 'all weather' form that was compatible with coolants. You still have to put in a lower thermostat after you have sealed the motor. If the motor exceeds the temperature at which you sealed it, the crack will re-open. Bear in mind that this is only a temporary fix, and that you will have to flush your rad and heater core if and when you replace your motor. Good luck.

If you are going to go to all that work, take out the back seat and make it a mid-engine RWD 2.2 auto with a roll cage and really good seat belts ? It would be a huge project, but it would also be a huge achievement, worthy of a club nutbar list if we had one.

I didn't say it was fruitless, and it won't be a blown gasket. I have pulled apart a couple of hundred blown motors, and only two had bad gaskets. The rest all had cracks between the valves. I have lots of customers running around on Block Seal, mostly because the car may not be worth putting another motor into, or maybe I didn't have the time, or maybe I didn't have a good motor for them right then. Bottom line is, yes you can keep driving it, but no, you can't bet your life on it again until you resolve the problem properly.

Don't know about those #'s but the bearings will be 6207 2RS. The seals, if they are the same O.D., will be for EA81 series and are CR20445. If one is larger, it is for the EA82 series and it will be a CR20447. I buy in bulk and didn't even know you could buy a kit. They are pretty cheap anyway so I don't really see any savings.

You probably have a cracked pair of heads. You can run as long as you want without a thermostat, but the mileage will suck and so will your defrost. You can also use any block sealing product but these are just bandaids on a fracture. Best way would be to look around for a donor car, as this is the best way to get a good used motor cheaply. You also get to score other parts that way too.

You could put any kind of stud in that you want. You still can't put much more steam on them because the threads in the aluminum block can still only hold about 65 ft.lbs and the stock headbolts can exceed twice that without deformation. You might try JB Weld or a thread locking compound, but I doubt that you can improve the holding power of an aluminum block very much.

The quality of the gaskets are not nearly as important as the bolt holes or studs keeping the surfaces together. A gasket usually blows out or leaks because nuts loosen off or the threads in the head are in bad shape.

The line can be changed without removing the turbo, the trick is not losing the copper washers on either side of the banjo fitting. It is the same arrangement used for the brake hose to caliper connection.

You can retap the holes to 7/16" NC, use 1" common bolts c/w vibration washers, preferrably internal, along with Walker 31309 gaskets. You don't need to pre-drill and a bottoming machine tap is required to cut threads all the way to the bottom. This can be done without taking off the pipe, as long as you fill the flukes of the tap with grease to trap the cuttings. It also helps to make sure that the old gasket is all out.

EA81T motors came with air-cooled turbo units, which never lasted anyway. Cars were upgraded with water-cooled units, hence the mickey mouse plumbing jobs. No big deal, the problem was corrected for the '85 model. If it's not 'broke', don't fix it.

The supply line from any EA82T will work, just grab one from a yard. If you can't find one, I can send you one UPS. Jim 604-466-6860

I don't normally answer a thread where someone has already given the answer, but Turbone is entirely correct. Speculation sometimes takes people on a long trip to nowhere.

Any wiper motor will fit '85 to '94. Your problem could also be caused by low voltage or poor electrical connections, or worn out mechanical linkage. In your area, damage is usually done by wipers being left on when a vehicle is turned off, then they freeze before the car is re-started. Not good for brushes.

If the heads are cracked, the cracks will be visible to the naked eye. If they are cracked, the best way to repair a casting is NOT TO. The only way to stop a crack is to drill a hole past the crack and weld out to it. This is virtually impossible on a suby head because of the profiles. Try if you want to, but don't cry when it blows out and leaves you, or yours, stranded way out nowhere. I guess if you really didn't like your wife or something ...

There is a possibility of a large vacuum leak, i.e. EGR valve or defective air control. At idle, vacuum is fairly high, but as soon as you touch the pedal, she will just quit. My guess, since you mentioned no CEL or codes.

You might want to look at your rear filter to see if there is any water in there. If there is you could have a rust hole in your fill tube or vent tube. Just a possibility.