bushbasher

in my experience yes. My 87 auto t-wagon had airbags but coils were put in. Every airbag car I've seen for sale has been automatic.

looks like a good find. So in it's past life it was a firewood hauler, a cement mixer, and a mouse nest? (I see a little piece of log on the back seat)

full-time 4wd will give you handling and safety advantages even on dry pavement, and it doesn't waste gas noticeably overr a dr 4wd would. a ft4wd tranny with diff lock on will act just the same as a pushbutton 4wd, or high range in your DR. However a DR can go into a much lower low range, and it also has the advantage of 3.9 diffs instead of 3.7. For the beach you wouldn't really need a low range, though a low range increases your acceleration, at the sacrifice of top speed, so it will dart around int the sand quite nicely. The only advantage to ft4wd is on the pavement.

it is expensive to fix, though some will last longer than others, they have nowhere near the lifespan of normal spring suspension. The bags can pop, lines can go, electronics can go etc.

on starters I've almost always been able to take the contacts on the solenoid, and clean or sand them. it doesn't take long, and lots of people seem afraid to take starters apart. I don't get why. If you got more money than time then go ahead and buy one, it also depends on whether you want to learn how things work, or if you are content to keep buying new parts for it. The 3 things that generally go wrong are: the solenoid contacts get corroded, you can sand them, the armature gets a bad spot, you can file it or sand it, and the brushes wear out, which you can replace.

I've got mine off, and have noticed the reduced understeer on my favourite sliding corner. Also, when I had my rear wheel off the ground, the front wouldn't use it's last inch of travel. I now have that whole inch :cool: and the car doesn't buck and lurch on bumps as much. I'm not sure if I really gained much traction.

that autospeed sedan doesn't even seem to have 4wd, theres a picture of it smoking the front tires, and they were complaining about traction problems

is those xt's 3.9 or 3.7? is those didn't catch that one quickly enough

could be something as simple as a bad ground.

the problem wouldn't be that there is too much oil, it's that it's the wrong kind of oil. If run in the long term you might wear your diff gears out faster. In the short time not a huge deal. If there is too much fluid in there theres more chance it's going to leak out the seals, and your fuel mileage might decrease a bit, because of the extra oil that has to be moved around.

i don't think that there are many that would be hanging out in old gen if they own cars like that.

old spark plug wires stop insulating so well, though you don't get the shock you could holding onto the plug itself. I once got a vw beetle for free because the coil wire was up against a spark plug wire, which grounded out the coil or something like that, even though no metal was touching All I had to do was seperate the wires and vrooom! squirt some wd into the cups on the disty-coil wire too. It's not so much the water that will cause the spark to ground out, it's the minerals in the water, that can be left behind. If you see light deposits flush it with isopropyl (rubbing) alchohol.

it will not fit on an ea82 without fabricating new flanges on your exhaust. There are many other things that should be done before a larger turbo is needed. You can run 14psi on the stock fuel system, and you will be possibly be able to get to 14psi quicker with the new turbo, but you won't be able to go much higher without fuel management and forged pistons.

hey my post doesn't show up.. I said check brake lines, before tim

yep that's normal for the 3 speed auto-slushy

if you want to be able to use 4wd regularly, you'd be best off to find an ea82 rx or xt full-time 4wd 5 spd. They will fit to the engine, but the tranny mounts will be different. That will give you a 5spd, full-time 4wd, with a center diff lock to turn it into standard 4x4. Also there are dual range versions of this tranny which have a ~1.25 low range, which is ideal for rallyin around, or for faster launches a dr 4spd would be the easy job in almost every respect, but the 4wd is not as useful on the pavement, and you only get 4 gears. Theres also the 5spd dr out of an ea82, which will recquire crossmember modification, and have the same 4wd, but with 5 gears. That about sums it up for manuals. There are a few who have put full-time 4wd trannys in ea81's maybe they can speak up.

ya be careful about the brakes. rubber lines can dry up and blow, as well as rusted metal lines, it seems to me that they often do. Don't expect it to run well at first, and the gas will be stale in the tank, you can tell by the smell. it's hard to explain how it smells, but if you've ever smelt gas before you could probably recognize it. your car will either not start or run ****tily on stale gas. If theres just a little gas in the tank, pour a good amount of good gas in it to thin it out, I don't think stale gas itself can do much to hurt a car, except not burn well. also check the fuel filter after running it before you take off, so you're not stranded if it clogs from tank rust.

you'd have to make the wing bigger before ricers would get the joke. To them a 3ft tall spoiler is not exaggeration, it's just cool. They wouldn't get it unless your wing is at least 6ft tall On a serious note, I wouldn't mind seeing it on the back, maybe mount it under the front pan to create downforce man those are the slowest loading pictures in existance

1.) broken timing belt 2.) if a headgasket was replaced previously that means the timing belt would have been removed, and could have been put on correctly, same goes for if a previously broken belt was replaced. Take off the timing belt cover and check the marks on the pulleys, the marks on the cam pulleys should be 180 deg apart, but I don't know the relation between the cam pulleys and crank pulley.

the bolts are usually not too hard to undo, It's just when you try to undo them by the nut that you have trouble. I eventually got a nut off using a huge breaker bar, then realized why it was so hard

you can apparently shift into 4x4 at any speed, just use the clutch. really doubt you'll have problems using 4x4 at any speed you can attain in the dirt. Just be easy on it on the pavement. You will have to try reversing and turning, or break traction to unbind 4wd and allow it to switch if you have been driving on pavement.

that's the best way to do it. just remember you have to cut the tube at the same angle as the angle of the strut tower top, so that your camber stays the same. I can' think of a way you could do it with your 2x3 box section. Time to find some tube of a diameter that fits the hump in the middle of the strut top, and some plate to cut out flanges for the top and bottom bolts.

you can get 27s in there with no lift if you are willing to trim your fenders. If you are not doing the fab for a suspension lift, it would be better to get the PK lift. The PK is going to give more clearance under the body, a suspension will give you more clearance under the diffs and under the body, but a max of 2" and no kit. If you can't do the fab yourself you might as well buy the PK body lift, subaru's get better clearance under the diffs than straight axle 4x4's anyway.

disconnect the wiper motor, then stick another fuse in, if it blows again it's the wiring or the wiper switch.

the clutch would be pulling the clutch, keeping it partially disengaged. If your clutch begins disengaging as soon as you touch it, and there is no play, this could be the problem.