bushbasher

if your gonna put in a different motor, go all the way and put in an ea82t!

I didn't think they made 4x4 versions either. Maybe it was just a 1981 4x4 wagon? Or maybe something like those mini 4wd pickups on ebay.

I don't know if that little judson could push enough air for an engine with twice the power and 600 more cc

it just makes the most sense to try, so I would keep asking first.

use the 86 sensors with the spider intake

All fixed. There were 3 HEAVILY corroded solders, and about 8 broken solders (hairline cracks)!! Works fine now, though when I resoldered the power wires, it was dark in the car, and I accidentally switched the yellow with the red So the light stayed dim as if the headlights were on. So I had to redo that. Contacts on horns are good, not going to pursue that further tonight.

that's some useful info, I have those exact symptoms with my clock, sounds easy enough, I guess the horn is an unrelated problem then.

and you could sell them for him!!

lifter clack can be caused by a bad pump and/or sludge in the lifters. So the pump may not be the only problem. If it is a clickity-clack kind of noise, then it is definitely lifters. A bad bearing will knock at higher rpm when you let off the gas or kind of hover at an rpm. Believe me on the bearing knock one, I have had plenty of experience with that! (not subes though :cool: )

I've been wondering why my dash clock is extremely dim for a while, and just a while ago I honked the horn, and it is extremely weak too. They are on the same fuse, so it seems like that whole circuit is getting very low voltage or current. Any ideas how? Also when I pull the fuse out the engine dies, what else is on this circuit?

what class would a boosted turbo rx sit in? If you get put in an appropriate class then get an rx/turbo wagon/xt turbo, and gut it. Then increase the boost and put an IC on it. Also, find a dual range full-time tranny (rx's have them) and you're set. The standard 4wd works just as well off-road, put you don't want to drive it too much on dry pavement, because it binds, and is hard on the axles.

when a voltage regulator goes bad it can make sensors read differently etc, that could be the problem. Is it really higher (like 15+volts) than normal or just a bit?

put xt struts/shocks or whatever in it, to drop it a few. Still a toad as in not making the hp it should be or not enough for you? how many k on the motor? Maybe disconnect the ac? On the flywheel, a lighter one will spin up faster with no load, and a bit faster under acceleration (that all depends what is slowing the car... not enough hp or too much rotating mass). A light flywheel is fine once you are moving, but a larger rotating mass helps jerk the car forwards initially when you dump the clutch from a stop. With a really light flywheel you have to rev higher, in order to drop the clutch fast and not stall. Maybe only a little though.

what kind of place should I go to to order long-travel coilovers?

the 89 t-wagn had ratchet adjustable rears, but it was a swap from air suspension, so they may have been taken from an earlier car. My 88 gl has no adjustment. The ea81s have the adjusters under the rear seat to rotate the torsion bars up and down

thats great, I'm not worrying about exact spring rates so a little change between model years is not a big deal. This is just for figuring out what spring rate I need for an 8-9" coilover in the rear, and for an idea in the front...

I thought a choke restricts the air, not the fuel. My only guess since it's not computer controlled it would have to be a bad connection, in whatever switches the pump on/off, or ground etc

if you just yank on the seatbelt as fast as you can it will just roll out, but try and do it while bouncing over some rough terrain, and they should catch as you yank on them. Then you know they should work in an accident.

4 wheel steering!!!

I only remember the monster wagon that sandhappy was/is? selling

Does anybody know what the spring rates are for the front and back of an 88 gl 4x4 wagon? Just something close, or a method to find out would be great. Oh and does anybody know a good source for a coilover or a shock that accepts a coil with 8" of travel and a spring width around 2-3"? Not a fancy one or anything.

The transfer case mod +front diff that mudrat, adam, and others have done has solved that problem, and they can still be driven at highway speeds. Putting a reduction between the engine and tranny would put twice the torque through all the gears too. The next step is some high-angle axles and long travel suspension.

thats what happen's to the rusty fwd's around here

6" is not that much, especially for a car that is very low to begin with. And hassey may have more clearance, but 31" tires almost cancel out the dual range reduction they are so much bigger. So not much rock climbing for him. The reason I am planning 6" on my wagon is because it makes room for a top-secret idea of mine. My fenders are going to look a little empty running 27-29" tires.

Heres a pic of a scorpion 50mm lift, basically you would make everything 2/3x taller. With this method you have to find or make bolts that are longer too. The other way like hassey's or subarubrat's brat is to make them out of rectangular tube, with some reinforcement, and and seperate bolts for the x-member and body. scorpion: subarubrat's lift: