bushbasher

Jack is right most are used on the road, and in snow occasionally. A DR is still nice in snow, but most people suck at snow driving anyway, it probably won't help them, they'd probably never bothe to put in low either. And as far off-roading goes, the baja's 2 ft overhangs make it useless for anything but flat dirt roads.

Nobody seems to be able to tell me HOW these "Engine-rebuild in a can" products work, other than cleaning out float bowls, injectors etc that get goo in them after sitting for a long time, which sounds like what Adam used it for. I can also see octane booster working.

start with a rust free sube, take all the panels off, and spray the whole undercarriage and inside of panels with bedliner or some kind of undercoat. Also epoxy primer makes excellent weatherproofing, it cannot be penetrated by air/water. I think it would be awesome to make a convertible brat with a removable hard top. The roll bar could be used to add the strength that is removed with the top. Man I would love to do this, but I have school, and I'm still in my teens, and all of my experience has been on beaters, though with money I guess that would be a non issue. Just general maturity then

^

there IS a way to have cupholders in your subaru!

everyday i see this green peugot in town, and I keep wishing it's engine will blow up or something, so that I can go steal the rims off of it once it gets to the yard! I'm so evil :madder:

I agree with adam, why not put a subaru motor in a suzuki? Or just a suzuki? IMO working on the independant is more fun, and it's all new territory, everything has been done on solid axles. -Some ideas of mine floating around lately... For the front, move the inside lower susp. arm pivot towards the middle on the same plane as the pivot point of the cv, then, with a 6"-8" lift, make an upper a-arm, instead of the strut, also on the same plane as the cv. Also, on the trailing arm/radius rod? take away the bushing, and use a ball joint. This way you don't need slip-yokes, and you can use any coilover you want in the front. But then you're in maximum cv angle territory. Also, if you widen the track by lengthening the arms and axles, you will have less angle for the same amount of travel. 3" out would probably give you another 1" or more before you hit max. Also if we could maximize the amount of up travel, it would be good because I think we have more room that way than down.

Isn't it car insurance that is so expensive down there?

the best way is to keep the fender wells rust free, is to pop off the plastic inner gaurds and make sure there is no trapped dirt. Also, the mud flaps are a really bad design, they trap dirt badly in the fenderwells. The major things that speed up fenderwell rust are salt (I'm lucky we use sand instead of salt on the roads) And wet, drapped dirt (Sand still isn't perfect ) I've removed my mudflaps. A good way to plug rust holes in the underbody is to wait till it's been really dry for a long time, and plug the hole with tar. It makes a water and airtight seal. If theres dirt in the hole, flush as much out as you can, then plug it after it's all dry.

if your really set on them they can be machined, that's all I know.

wow that was a big word ^ got it right first time! Anyways, before the t-wagon went, I ripped off the intake manifold including the maf. Now that I have an spfi, I see that the maf is pretty restrictive looking. Would they interchange and work properly? Whether the connectors are the same doesn't matter, but would the values put out be the same? For future reference, do flapper types and hot wire types interchange?

I finally found exactly what I was looking for, it's an '88 gl wagon, d/r, spfi. Leaks no oil, burns no oil! Mechanically and electrically perfect. Great interior, new Cv's, and some rust in the fender wells, needs one front fender replaced because of the rust, the other side has been done already. I got it for $1000 CDN, might have talked him down further, but I'm no good at that :-\ Expect to see 6" 5"/1" susp lift, and 27-28's soon.

I talked to a guy with an 88 gl dr 5psd wagon in the paper for $1200 (CDN). He's says he had the engine resealed, the cv's are good, interior is good, and it runs perfect. He says there is some rust on the rear flares, but in the front he has new fenders, which are a different colour, to fix the rust. This sounds good to me, what do you think? -and what would the chances be that it's carbbed?

I don't understand why they didn't make a turbo hatch, or why they ever mated turbos to automatics, but switching to the ea82 was new technology, overhead cams, etc, The ea82 cars were top of the line, they wouldn't put an old motor in them. After 85 ea81's were the bargain cars, just meant to be a cheap alternative.

A volkswagen motor is definitely not bolt in, the basic configuration is basically all that is in common. You'd be putting an older, less powerful motor in anyways, and the ea81 subaru engine is just as reliable. New rod bearings would be no more expensive or tough to do than any other car, you're gonna want to pull the engine. If your gonna swap engines, find another subaru motor. Getting a turbo F.I. setup off of a turbo sube, with an intercooler is a good way to get more power, but upgrading to a weber carb and a bigger exhaust will help alot as well.

you'll have to cut a lot out of the fender and beat the firewall part of the fender pretty good, especially the seam that runs through the center. I would think you'd have to have the right offset to keep the inside of the tire close to the strut without rubbing, my 215/75/15 tires needed beating of the firewall, but my toyota rims stuck half the tire outside of the fender, so thats probably why. If you've got access to some tire irons it really isn't too much work to mount or dismount tires yourself. I use a vice to pop them off of the bead first.

a gl would have less power options, no air suspension, more often 2wd than 4wd I think.

A bearing store. Theres 1 in my city of 80 000, where I go to buy bearings cheaper than from parts stores. There should be one nearby you, especially if you live in a city bigger than 80 000. Just ask them. They will have part numbers to almost any bearing on the planet from helicopter rotor bearings to pillow block bearings. I'm certain they could figure out something. Look under bearings in the yellow pages.

you could try pulling out your t-stat and see if it still overheats. It'll take longer to get to proper temp, but it should be fine if it's warm out. If it stops then obviously it's the t-stat, if it doesn't it is likely the rad restricting the flow. On the radiator it doesn't matter what you do as long as the passages end up clean and you haven't gouged or bent anything. Power washer sounds quick and easy.

jeez another one on the island! That's 3 so far! Welcome to the board! I'm out in Sooke. If the knock vibrates when moving with the engine revving, but not when the car is stopped, it could be axles. I'm also thinking of worn engine/tranny mount rubber, or a broken mount. Could be predetonation or missing under acceleration. Just some more ideas.

that it's a really really powerful bead blaster.

the dash clock 2 milliamps would take a very very VERY long time to drain a car battery.

With cryo-treating our axles may still be the weak point, but still be stronger. I don't see cryo-treating doing so much to our axles that they will become unbreakable. I also think that unless the axles become unbreakable they would be impractical, because everytime we break an axle we will have to send a new one to the freezer. Any body know what people charge for this kind of work?

ya got it all wrong there, it's pee-yew joe!

drill it out and rethread it, or use a helicoil. My opinion is that if you can't get a bolt out with a cheater bar, your not going to be able to do it with an extactor bit.