bushbasher

A non-lifted sube would probably get undercarriage damage if you pick the wrong line, But with a lifted wagon w nice off-road tires it would be no problem, especially with an lsd or welded rear. My favourite trail around my place is called Harbourview, It is mostly rocky like in those pics, but fairly level, and once and a while you reach a huge rock-climbing obstacle. I had no troubles running it in a single range turbowagon, with welded rear. Did better than my friends scout, who was dragging his diffs over all the boulders. Here are some pics of stuff I made it through cleavage rock The view of the Sooke Basin

If I was mean I would tell you to go and try it, but I will save you and your sube by warning you first! The front e-brake is gonna send you in a straight line right off the edge of the corner, just like locking up your brakes when the rears don't work

well I can definitely see how these flame wars could get someone riled up :argue:

I didn't mean for that to be a criticism, I was just curious if you think having new axles would have helped. Didn't know that you can't get new axles. You also didn't mention anything about Robert having a solution. And I didn't mean to double post, my screwups managed to compound.

wtf - why do I keep double posting!

bump- I guess editing an old post doesn't bring it up to the top

How old were those axles? I would think you would have new ones before going, but just wondering.

Well it seems pretty obvious that axle durability was the problem on the con, I've been hanging around the pirate board And I got wind of something called cryo-treating or something, that people were doing to their axles to get a lot more strength out of them, perhaps we should look into this? Also shot peening I hear can raise the fatigue limit by 22%!

I've never used wd-40, but I have always used rubbing alchohol. It does a great job of rinsing away the mineral deposits left by evaporating water.

Oh man this is getting frustrating, I can't handle the suspense

I do have the driveshaft from my t-wagon, was about to offer it, then realized the reason it was out was because it slipped out and the splines got mashed I dunno If anybody would consider my welds nice enough to sell, but they do the job.

Actually, about Harborview, my best friend lives on a property right next to it, and has a "secret" trail to get to it. Now we have the whole place to ourselves! I currently don't have a ride, I had a turbo wagon that was a complete POS, so I welded up a 6" lift and grabbed some 15" yota rims and snow tires from a salvage yard, and beat it into the ground taking trips up to the lakes (Harbourview). Got me into subes though. I'm looking for a new ride though, just haven't come across the right deal. I'm looking for an ea81 or ea82 wagon with a DR or at least a manual 4wd, for under 1500, know of any around? About your driveshaft, all you should need is some metric wrenches or sockets, four bolts where it bolts to the rear diff, 2 for the driveshaft bearing carrier, and then pull it out of the tranny.

hey cool, someone local on the board! I live out in Sooke, about 30 min. away from Vic. if you've never been. A suggestion would be to replace the whole driveshaft from a salvage yard car, It'll probably be cheaper than having a drivetrain shop do anything for you.

some people have made scoops, some have but a fan on or both, and some run it without anything, maybe they are planning to run something at some point, I don't know.

i would say over 2500 if it's loaded with power options, closer to 3000

put the svx motor behind the seats with a 2wd tranny, and make it mid-engine rwd.

sure, youve never seen a turbo chevy sprint (turbo 3 cyl I think)?

when i took the exhaust and intake silencer off my old t-wagon, my jeep friend was quivering in fear and awe of my throaty burble, and those sexy intake noises. He didn't want to start up his little bshhoom bshoom bang put put 4.0! Ah that coupled with a 7500 rpm neutral to drive launch in the gravel put me at the top of the pecking order! Too bad my T-wagon didn't last too long oh well it had 300+k km, and a blown h gasket anyway

tommorrow I'm getting hold of a guy with an 83 gl 4x4 wagon, for 500 cdn, apparently has "little rust", and needs a cv (probably 2) I think that if it is as described here, and a dual range I'll go for it, if it is a 4spd SR, and the car is actually pretty good, I might go for a 5spd DR swap. Sound like an OK price to you guys? I'm sure the prices are a bit different on Vanc. Island though (higher) I'm in a hurry to get a sube and fix whatever is wrong with it before summer holidays end, so that I can feel like I actually did something with my summer .

From what I've heard there are three ea81 4x4 trannies, right? 4spd DR, auto SR, and 4(5?)spd SR, correct?

C'mon guys spill the beans!

In practice the difference is minor when you increase compression, because the fuel/air enters when the piston is moving down to the bottom, where maximum volume is reached. The change in volume of the head or piston is a small percentage compared to this large volume. As the piston moves up, and finally gets to the top, the small change in volume of the head or piston is much more important, because the total volume is very small as well. eg when the piston is at the bottom, the volume of the head might be 5%, but when the piston is right up close to the head, it might be 50-75+%

Thanks NDJ, I've been asking questions about suspension for a while now, I finally got a response on what the angle limits of the cv's are. 30" sounds pretty good, maybe too gooc to be true? I am definitely going to try slip-yokes, In my quest for a subaru that can keep itself on all fours. To me, a pic of a subaru in that position is as embarrassing as a women having her skirt blow up in the wind, while she's not wearing underwear! No offense Brian, I'm talking about subaru's in general. And about shocks, without shocks in a rock crawling condition, you're going to get serious wheel hop, as your tires lose and gain traction, and it would probably end up bouncing you off the rock. It's also not good on drivetrain and suspension parts.

is that pic w swaybar and shocks? At the rear I'm not sure how far you can go before the rear axles over-extend. The fronts are the big worry though, I'm trying to think of a way to make the struts have longer travel, or maybe to chuck the strut, and make an a-arm and a coil-over for the top.

The ea82t motor puts out 115 hp and 134 lb ft of torque, running at the stock 7 psi boost. With a boost controller the engine can be run in the 10-15 psi range, and an intercooler is recommended by everbody, usually a top-mount, that can go in the spare-tire hole above the engine. Your cheapest bet for that is to find an IC off of a turbo car eg saab turbo, or mitsu starion etc at a yard. A front mounted IC can also be done though. Some people have modified their MAF to give more fuel, and run richer all the time, I'm not sure of the real value in that. The auto tranny you speak of is a bit of a dog, and if you're going for performance your best bet is to switch to a manual 5 spd, you should be able to get help from other who have done this. I'm pretty sure the 150-160 hp goal can be reached without internal engine work, and not too much money spent.