bushbasher

sounds like the subaru version of the renault r5 turbo

your baja already has a bypass valve, which is similiar to a blow off but it recirculates the air back into the intake so the computer isnt confused. So a blowoff valve would be useless. A turbo timer will extend the life of your turbo by allowing the turbo to cool gradually and not leave coked oil on the bearings. Its not really necessary either, just let it idle a few min. before you shut the motor off, especially after spirited driving. A boost controller is used to increase the boost. This will give you more power, obviously with negative effects on engine/drivetrain life just as any other major power increase would. It most likely voids your warranty too.

I would replace the whole control arm as a unit with the leading rod and leading rod bushing bracket thingy from a parts car. Unbolt the balljoint, the crossmember mount, and take out the 3 bolts holding the bracket for the leading rod.

I've never seen a sube that stayed there. It might be thats the temp they want you to warm it up before use or something. Most sit at half or more. I doubt heat is causing the ping. Spark plugs of an incorrect heat range (too hot) are the biggest cause, along with incorrect timing. Running too lean causes the motor to run too hot and therefore ping, and heavy carbon buildup can cause it but it has to be pretty nasty I think. The disty cap has nothing to do with advance, you have to swap the whole distributor. As far as a lower thermostat keeping the car in warmup mode, I dont think the change is enough to cause that, warmup enrichment stops a ways before full operating temp.

my buddy has one of those grand cherokees with a HO 360 with the ft4wd transfer case. It is scary fast, goes really fast in a straight line especially with the ft4wd, but you hold on for dear life when you fly into a corner.

looks good, but those shackles are a bit ridiculous, I would at least brace them to make each shackle to be more of an H shape, or you will be swaying all over the road. Believe me I've had experiences with big shackles... I mean, uhhh

you want to have a reasonable amount of up and down travel, or your off and on road ability will suffer. Stock there is about 5.5-6" of strut travel, and at ride height it rests halfway which is pretty much ideal for general use. Turning the adjusters up 2" will mean you will only have an inch or maybe less downtravel. On the other hand with more up than downtravel you could land jumps harder without bottoming out but how often are you doing that Its not the ideal way to lift/stiffen your car by a long shot. I would keep them back at stock or maybe 1" over stock. It will be easier on the axles too because the CV angles wont be as steep.

Well I dont think its so important, you've already got the engine mounts in the front, and tranny mounts spaced pretty far back. Long term it might lead to more wear on the rest of the mounts and a bit more engine movement, but I doubt anything serious would happen. On a regular transverse fwd its a different story though because the engine mounts are all close to the axis the motor wants to twist.

Its called trolling, and no, threads dont need it to stay interesting. Thanks.

31x10.5x15 General Grabber MTs on 15x6 or 15x7 (depends on how you measure) early toyota 6-bolt rims. Measuring about 30.25" actual dia. On a 6" lifted ea82 wagon. Expect cutting/pounding with this combo even with 6" lift.

is that also where the HG went?

edit: oops, its not your turbo wagon Seems to me if the compression is great then it has to be intake or exhaust side of the the valves. Cracked head, maybe cracked intake manifold? That would be really weird but so is the problem you're having :-\ If you need anything, parts, tools, or an extra pair of hands don't hesitate to ask. It sounds like you are in a tight situation, I've got thurs, friday, probably sat/sun off.

yeah, there are hoards of ea82 wagons and sedans in 4wd and 2wd on the island, but ea81s are much harder to find. Rxs are rare as hens teeth it seems, though I do see XTs and svx's once and a while.

if you are dead set on using a suby to tow my recommendation would be fuel injected dual range, for a good trade-off between power, reliability, and gearing. I wouldnt want a turbo car unless the tranny is swapped out for a dual range tranny with 3.9:1 final drive. On the other hand a turbo car will have rear discs. The drums on the dl/gl cars are patheticly small, I can hardly get mine to lock up in the gravel with my 31s. Rear discs are far far better.

my owners manual says loyale, and its for an 88 GL wagon. The trunk says just GL though.

You wont be able to do it right by heating only an area, it will have too much internal stress and will fatigue crack. You could heat an area, bend it, then afterwards heat the whole thing up in a furnace and re-harden it, which would relieve the stresses. You wouldnt be able to bend it much cold, it will probably snap on you.

a stock ea82 has around 5.5-6" all around. The cvs are capable of 10-11" of travel with a bias towards uptravel (ie 4" down, 7" up), which would be an advantage when jumping, but not really helpful for flex. If you want equal up/downtravel I think around 8" maybe a bit more in the rear is all thats possible.

wow, its amazing how much a few inches and some steelies can change a cars look. Sure doesnt look so innocent any more

I think they look okay when not covered in brake dust Your car looks sweet man. I always thought the RX's looked kind of goofy, but it turns out they look perfect once lowered and 'scooped. I guess that goes for most other 80's japanese cars too. Oh, and in addition to the de-pinstriping, have you considered swapping black side trim, or painting the existing side trim black like subarujunkie did?

Cryogenic treatment is almost always a good thing. However, if the hardening job on a part is already very high quality, cryo treatment will make less of a difference. Piston rings are probably one of the most precisely hardened parts of the engine (correct balance between hardness and shock resistance is very important), so it might not be worth it in the end.

I did the 17/32 with a file trick as well. but instead of grinding at the drum/discs, I just ground a flat spot into the lips of the studs. The file will also help if you screw up a little and the hole is a bit off. You can fix a small error that way.

but if you take a sharp turn hard or suddenly at higher speed, you can get the weight to shift off the inside wheel allowing it to break loose instead of twisting stuff off.

larger tires, 3.7 ratio drivetrain and you're set

same for aircooled volkswagons (and older porsches too so I hear) Its basically a weakness of the boxer engine head design. The area between the valves has a long/skinny cross section, and the water jacket is farther away. The middle heats up faster while the rest of the head remains cool, and voila, fatigue cracks due to different amounts of heat expansion.

the problem is the cost. A lot of people wheel broncos and other vehicles that share the same axles, so companies are willing to develop products for them. The community that wheels subarus seriously is still really small, and the hitachi r160 diff isnt available in any other car with a wheeling record. The other factor is that most hardcore suby wheelers need something stronger than the stock rear diff anyways, so why throw money into something with marginal strength.