bushbasher

very sick man. Reminds me of a nitro RC car I saw once,

see this guys? Its not oil related.

the mid-late 80s toyota pickups came with diesels up in canada, in 2.4 and 2.6l variants I think. That might be a possibility.

right, I guess the tar won't be too flakey when its 30*c outside. Pour liquid nitrogen on it, or find a meat cooler you can drive into :-p

95% of the stuff on my floor was really flakey. I just tapped it with a hammer and it would crack and fall apart. More stubborn areas I chipped away with a wide flat screwdriver and a hammer.

maybe recheck where you put your spark plug wires, then your ignition timing. It could be cam timing as well.

yep, you're probably going to run into trouble. My situation involved the axles moving back only 2-3" very similiar to your pic and I couldnt do it unless I limited the steering. In the end I had to rework my suspension to get the axles straight.

ugleeee! and the rear rims are mounted backwards

since the inside wheel turns out farther than the other side, you have barely any extra angle available unless you make some steering stops. You can angle the axles backwards a fair bit, but not really anything forwards. I figured this out when I was extending the wheelbase on the front of my subaru wagon. My suggestion would be to modify the front suspension to extend the wheelbase a few. It would help axle angle and weight distribution.

well is one of those 7 brats an extended-bed brat that lives out in sooke? Maybe you should bump the count to 8

It looks quite nice, if it's been garage kept, only driven occasionally and taken care of, the condition doesnt surprise me. The seller will probably want a deposit, but dont give full payment till you've looked at it in person. Look for evidence of a respray, chipped paint on the fender and door bolts indicating that they were removed, bondo. If you get some bad signs like that, it could mean accident damage or rust coverup.

actually the compound on bfg ats and mts are rock hard! Its probably the thin but tall tread blocks on the ats that causes the chunking. Seriously, there arent many off-road tires as hard as a bfg.

really really well done. I dont know if I like the mesh on the skidplate, but its cool that you've gone all out and are cutting away and rebuilding the strut towers and front end for clearance and suspension travel. Looks like a really well thought out ground-up build. That motor is really purdy, and sounds to be exactly what you want for low end torque. I have to ask what pistons you got in there, running 9.5:1 or 8.7:1 pistons might be a better idea than the 7.7:1 turbo pistons, since you wont have to deal with really hot intake charges like with a turbo. Your plan with the tranny is to get a full-time 4wd with a real hi-lo and shorter final drive? Sounds wicked.

dont be so worried about it, just get out there and wheel! As long as you arent over extending the axles at full droop, you'll be fine. I would keep everything cranked down though, not for axle strength but to retain the ratio of up/down travel to keep as much useful flex as possible.

no, pretty sure not, and no :-\ But I wouldnt worry about the front. Its stronger than the back anyways. The stubs are solid, the cups are larger diameter and the axles are thicker in the front. The back end has the hollow stubs, skinny axles and cups. I would bring a pair of axles and some spare stubs. I think with light weight and 26s you will have some smooth sailing.

cool, thanks for the link! so i guess for 1400.250.0300 would be 14" long, 2.5" wide, and a #300 spring rate?

mile markers, harbor frieght, champion winches will all get the job done, but they are slow. Warn winches have bigger motors so they can pull just as hard but also go faster. For emergency self recovery any of the cheaper winches will do fine. People like warns because they can hook up the winch and drive up an obstacle along with its help, and the warn will keep up and take up the slack.

your motor has a different bolt pattern than the older motors, so you need an adapter in order to use an older dual range transmission. I dont think you need to worry about gearing, its only really steep stuff that will matter (like so steep that you feel like your pointing straight up towards the sky)

I just read your sig, now i might be doing the same frickin neons

There wont be, because the draw of that heater fan motor cannot produce anything more than a gentle low pressure breeze. All it really is doing is drawing power from the alternator and introducing more restriction into the intake. A little motor like cant even keep up with the air going through the motor at idle.

any luck??

backspacing is the distance from the mounting flange to the back of the wheel, so large backspace would pull the wheel in further, and a small amount of backspace would push it out. You actually want to tuck it in as close to the strut as possible, because it will rub on the fenders when you turn if the tire sticks too far out.

this is nothing like just bolting on a part. It would require a completely custom front suspenion and lift, around 6" or higher, to hold a seperate front differential, a subframe fabricated to hold the transfer case, and custom drivelines. The problem is that in the forester you don't have a low range in your transmission like older subarus do. So you dont have the gearing for serious off-roading. Adding a transfer case gives you a low range, but it requires serious fabrication, which I doubt you want to go through on a forester unless you're made of money. Other gearing solutions would be to adapt an older model subaru dual range transmission into your forester, or find a newer dual range transmission from europe or australia since they werent available in the US, and have it shipped to you. you can turn 29s no problem without a transfer case on the road and on fairly flat off-road terrain. But once you get into obstacles and hillclimbs you will be burning the clutch up or having to take things at higher speeds which makes body and drivetrain damage more likely.

It is something that will take a heck of a lot of work to put in

sounds like that car is really testing you... Hope ya get the thing working dude.