SyntheticBlinkerFluid

Haha, no, I'm gonna leave it be. I'm gonna see if I can make it through the winter with the clutch and maybe over the summer pull the engine and replace the clutch. I'm not big on mods. Some are a good idea, and others, well, cause trouble.

Heres some Pics. Needs some body work :-\ I want a whole set of these wheels.

Thanks, that should help alot.

I was wondering if someone had a factory service manual for an 1986 EA82 Engine. I would like to start working on the GL today to remove the water pump, but Everywhere I go, no one has even the Haynes manual and has to order it and they wouldn't be in for a week in some places. Those manuals are too confusing anyway. The Subaru Dealer only will sell Factory Manuals back to 1991. Is anyone capable of scanning the pages or taking pictures and posting them or emailing them to me? If not oh well. Oh and the repair manual on the homepage has not worked for the past 2 or more weeks.

When I had my friend push in the clutch repeatedly, nothing was moving. All of a sudden there was a click I heard, that he also felt in the pedal and the linkage started moving, I thought maybe the clutch/flywheel broke loose, but what I think happened was that the clutch cable was rusted or corroded and after the constant pushing on the pedal, broke that loose, but after that happened and you could see the clutch fork moving, the clutch wasn't releasing. So now I'm wondering if the clutch is blown, because with the engine running, you wouldn't be able to get the trans in gear.

Well I went and picked up the '86 yesterday and I have a feeling that since it had been sitting for a while, the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate has rusted together. You can't get it into gear with the engine running. I have a feeling the clutch could be blown too. Well, from things I've learned in the past, I know you can put the car in gear, push in the clutch, and try to start the car. Well that didn't work considering the battery I was using had very low voltage. We then decided that we'd hook it up to Vic and we'd pull it around in gear with the clutch pedal pushed in and the ignition off. Well, that didn't work either considering that the car just wanted to be a large air pump. I have been told by the previous owner that the clutch did slip a little before it was done being driven. Without knowing anything about this drivetrain, I have gotten the clue that the clutch is mechanical not hydraulic. I looked under the hood and had my friend push the clutch in a few times, I couldn't see anything moving, then a loud click and all of a sudden the linkage is moving. I don't know if I should pull the drivetrain (though I have no time) or I could figure out if the clutch set is rusted. I wanted to have the subie for winter but it doesn't look like it.

Would I have the Hill-Holder on my FWD? Or did that only come on the 4WD models?

I'm glad you guys are helping me out, so I have another question. When I got in the GL the other day to start it, I put my foot on the brake pedal and it went all the way to the floor, opened the reservoir, and there was definately no fluid, a little wet, but no fluid. That means a brake line has gone bye bye. My question is, is it difficult to replace lines? And does anybody make prebent for an 80's Subie? The water pump project looks like it has turned in to a brake project, and sometime in the future, a clutch project.

Well in some FWD cars, I found that it's actually easier to pull the complete drivetrain out as one piece to replace a clutch. Usually there are a few things that are connected to the firewall/body. I've done it a couple times and never had a problem. I'm just wondering that with the Subaru, if it will be much different.

So do you mean seperate them and then drop the trans out through the bottom, and then realign them and put them in as one? Yeah the Toyota Carb was hell. I looked at the soob and said "That don't look bad"

Haha, thanks guys, I like my name too. It is an EA82 Engine, I noticed the belt covers on the front and I saw the "EA82" stamp somewhere on the engine. Two more questions if anyone can answer. 1. If need to replace the clutch, how difficult is it and would it be easier to remove the complete drivetrain or just the engine? 2. How difficult is it to rebuild the Carbuerator? The one on my old Toyota was a pain in the butt, but looking at this one, it didn't look very complicated. Thanks again. Oh the funny thing is, I grew up with Chevrolet Corvairs, drive and work on them all the time, so horizontally opposed engines don't scare me.

I'm getting an what I believe is an '86 GL FWD Coupe for free. I posted about water pump replacement before. It runs and drives. Not sure on the mileage. I plan to change the water pump and timing belt. I plan to drive it for the winter. Since I work on my own stuff, how difficult is it to work on these? And is there anything I should be aware of or look out for? Thanks, Rob

Thanks for the heads up guys.

I just got an '86 GL FWD Coupe and I was planning on picking up a Chiltons manual to give me some help on it. By looking at the engine, it looks rather self-explanitory, and I could probably do it without. My questions are: Is there anything I should worry about when replacing the pump? Does anybody still sell a factory service manual? If so how much. I have not had any luck looking on the net. Thanks.