211

Negative. I've owned this car since mid 2000 and have done most of the maintenance myself.

Coolant in the overflow doesn’t move at all. Car doesn’t appear to be running hot other than the gauge indicating otherwise. I did notice this morning (cold) it ran noticeably rough till the t-stat opened then smoothed out. also it warms up incredibly quick (according to the gauge). I don’t really remember it warming up so rapidly. Less than 5 mins and the needle has climbed to just below horizontal. heater works as normal.

My commute is mostly highway for 20 miles, once off the highway, the temp will climb, then drop... it'll do that a couple times before getting to work which is another 10 miles of back roads Radiator isn't blocked that I can tell. I've driven the car a couple times after the work. We noticed the overheat the first time we ran the engine for break in. Called it an air bubble and thought it would work itself out. It didn't. Replaced the Tstat and re flushed the coolant. still doing it. Symptoms start once the car has been at operating temp for a while. So far every time i've driven it. Seems to do it regardless of driving conditions although I can expect to see it happen after I get off the highway. Its been chilly here and I suspect the airflow at highway speeds keeps the temps in check until I get off..

2000 OBW 240k miles. Burned an exhaust valve so a friend and I pulled the motor and had the heads professionally reworked. New MLS gaskets Car runs great now, but it'll get to temp then every so often the temp (needle on the gauge) will climb almost to the second line above the halfway point, then drop to normal. Never overheats, just climbs a little past half before dropping to norm. I thought it might be a sticking t-stat so I picked up an OEM one from the dealer and dropped it in. Its still overheating. No air in the system. I've gotten really good at burping air from these cars. Fans come on. Timing belt and wp were replaced about 50k ago but again the problem only occurred after the engine repairs. All grounds are connected. Not sure what else it could be. A flakey temp sensor?? I've never seen those fail in this manner.

Holding up an EJ25 gasket to the block of a EJ20, the bore on the 2.0 is much smaller. We thought about EJ20 turbo HG's but those are thicker and would likely change the timing a little bit. I'll look into the WRX 2.0 gaskets thanks

This^^ Having a hard time sourcing quality HG's specific to the EJ20

I have a 2000 OBW with a JDM 2.0 engine transplant. I'm having a hard time finding HG's specific to the 2.0. Title says it all. Are the 2.5 SOHC non-turbo HG's compatible?

Awesome! Thanks for this

Cool Thanks for the clarification! Gets a little confusing because there's just sooo many different P/N's. Add to the confusion, an exact match for my ECU on the used market is $300 but there's ones that (according to online Subaru parts stores) "matches your vehicle" for $100 used. For instance, found one on ebay from a 2000 Legacy GT M/T H4 that's $119. Guess I'll just pull the trigger and find out. Any worries about an immobilizer buggering things up or is that not till later years?

I just compared the pinout tables for both MT and AT ECM's There's enough difference between the two that I'm more comfortable just finding the ECM for my exact model. For instance: MT- Intake manifold pressure sensor outputs 3.4-3.6Vdc (key on engine off) and 1.2-1.8Vdc (engine on idling) AT- Intake manifold pressure sensor outputs 3.9-4.1Vdc (key on engine off) and 2.0-2.3Vdc (engine on idling) There's plenty of other differences as well but that's the big one.

A while back I posted a thread regarding an all-4 cylinder misfire and system too rich condition. Finally took it to a reputable shop where they spent 3 months (off and on) diagnosing the issue. They too were stumped. It was the shop that narrowed the problem down to the ecu. They swapped in a known-good one and all the symptoms disappeared. But to be clear. Prior to taking it in I did everything you could think of including replacing the Temp sensor, O2, IAC, everything I could think of that didn't involve pulling the motor. The first thing the shop said to me was that it was the Temp sensor. The car thought it was -24 degrees out. I told them I replaced it already and it was unlikely the new sensor was bad. They quickly realized it was not the sensor and began digging further till finally shotgunning a new ECU in place. Because they had the car for so long the shop didn't charge me a dime. But did give me direction on finding a used ECU on eBay. Its an easy swap I just want to make sure I'm getting the right one.

Hi, I've concluded that my ECU is causing erratic idle behavior and poor mileage and I need to replace it with a used one This is a 2000 OBW, manual trans. Wondering if an ECU from an Auto trans would work? They're more common. Or should I locate an ECU from a manual. This is the ECU i.e. computer under the RHS carpet

Replaced all the dry crusty vac lines already, including the lines going to the regulator. Did a pressurized smoke check as well. Other than slight leakage around the air filter box (where the two halves clip together) everything checked out alright.

I replaced the temp sensor with a dealer part. no change whatsoever. Any other suggestions before throwing in the towel?

2000 OBW. 150k Codes: P0172 (System Too Rich), P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304 (Cylinder 1-4 Misfire Detected). These all pop at the same time if I were to clear the codes. Car runs fine otherwise. I've had this check engine light for about a little over a year but within the last few months it began flashing at me. At first it would only flash when driving away without the engine being fully warmed. Now it occurs more frequently, warm or cold. Seems to run okay throughout. I don't notice any change in performance otherwise (slightly lower MPG's but that could be the winter blends). Some things I've done myself to troubleshoot: New plugs and wires (NGK on both. Blue Subaru wires), Plugs twice in the last year thinking it had something to do with the G-type NGK plugs. Went back to conventional. No change swapped coils with known-good coil changed fuel filter (the one by the brake booster) replaced dried vacuum lines vacuum leak smoke check running vacuum check (seemed okay) my gage has a green section on the dial that's supposed to be "normal". It was within that. replace A/F sensor (OEM from Subaru dealer) last year when the light first came on. Ran okay for a few weeks, then misfire codes came back ordered another one as a shotgun approach but I doubt that will fix it since the last one is only a year old. I use an OBD WiFi dongle and an iPhone app to check/clear codes but they're pretty basic. I'm at a loss now and don't know what else to check. Figured I'd check in with you all before I throw in the towel. Side question: Can this year Subaru send other CAN messages to the right OBD reader? Like fuel trims, etc. My thoughts are if I take it in to a well-equipped mechanic they can use a more sophisticated scan tool to diagnose more thoroughly than I can with my OBD dongle.