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Negative. I've owned this car since mid 2000 and have done most of the maintenance myself.

Coolant in the overflow doesn’t move at all. Car doesn’t appear to be running hot other than the gauge indicating otherwise. I did notice this morning (cold) it ran noticeably rough till the t-stat opened then smoothed out. also it warms up incredibly quick (according to the gauge). I don’t really remember it warming up so rapidly. Less than 5 mins and the needle has climbed to just below horizontal. heater works as normal.

My commute is mostly highway for 20 miles, once off the highway, the temp will climb, then drop... it'll do that a couple times before getting to work which is another 10 miles of back roads Radiator isn't blocked that I can tell. I've driven the car a couple times after the work. We noticed the overheat the first time we ran the engine for break in. Called it an air bubble and thought it would work itself out. It didn't. Replaced the Tstat and re flushed the coolant. still doing it. Symptoms start once the car has been at operating temp for a while. So far every time i've driven it. Seems to do it regardless of driving conditions although I can expect to see it happen after I get off the highway. Its been chilly here and I suspect the airflow at highway speeds keeps the temps in check until I get off..

2000 OBW 240k miles. Burned an exhaust valve so a friend and I pulled the motor and had the heads professionally reworked. New MLS gaskets Car runs great now, but it'll get to temp then every so often the temp (needle on the gauge) will climb almost to the second line above the halfway point, then drop to normal. Never overheats, just climbs a little past half before dropping to norm. I thought it might be a sticking t-stat so I picked up an OEM one from the dealer and dropped it in. Its still overheating. No air in the system. I've gotten really good at burping air from these cars. Fans come on. Timing belt and wp were replaced about 50k ago but again the problem only occurred after the engine repairs. All grounds are connected. Not sure what else it could be. A flakey temp sensor?? I've never seen those fail in this manner.

Holding up an EJ25 gasket to the block of a EJ20, the bore on the 2.0 is much smaller. We thought about EJ20 turbo HG's but those are thicker and would likely change the timing a little bit. I'll look into the WRX 2.0 gaskets thanks

This^^ Having a hard time sourcing quality HG's specific to the EJ20

I have a 2000 OBW with a JDM 2.0 engine transplant. I'm having a hard time finding HG's specific to the 2.0. Title says it all. Are the 2.5 SOHC non-turbo HG's compatible?

Awesome! Thanks for this

Cool Thanks for the clarification! Gets a little confusing because there's just sooo many different P/N's. Add to the confusion, an exact match for my ECU on the used market is $300 but there's ones that (according to online Subaru parts stores) "matches your vehicle" for $100 used. For instance, found one on ebay from a 2000 Legacy GT M/T H4 that's $119. Guess I'll just pull the trigger and find out. Any worries about an immobilizer buggering things up or is that not till later years?

I just compared the pinout tables for both MT and AT ECM's There's enough difference between the two that I'm more comfortable just finding the ECM for my exact model. For instance: MT- Intake manifold pressure sensor outputs 3.4-3.6Vdc (key on engine off) and 1.2-1.8Vdc (engine on idling) AT- Intake manifold pressure sensor outputs 3.9-4.1Vdc (key on engine off) and 2.0-2.3Vdc (engine on idling) There's plenty of other differences as well but that's the big one.

A while back I posted a thread regarding an all-4 cylinder misfire and system too rich condition. Finally took it to a reputable shop where they spent 3 months (off and on) diagnosing the issue. They too were stumped. It was the shop that narrowed the problem down to the ecu. They swapped in a known-good one and all the symptoms disappeared. But to be clear. Prior to taking it in I did everything you could think of including replacing the Temp sensor, O2, IAC, everything I could think of that didn't involve pulling the motor. The first thing the shop said to me was that it was the Temp sensor. The car thought it was -24 degrees out. I told them I replaced it already and it was unlikely the new sensor was bad. They quickly realized it was not the sensor and began digging further till finally shotgunning a new ECU in place. Because they had the car for so long the shop didn't charge me a dime. But did give me direction on finding a used ECU on eBay. Its an easy swap I just want to make sure I'm getting the right one.

Hi, I've concluded that my ECU is causing erratic idle behavior and poor mileage and I need to replace it with a used one This is a 2000 OBW, manual trans. Wondering if an ECU from an Auto trans would work? They're more common. Or should I locate an ECU from a manual. This is the ECU i.e. computer under the RHS carpet

Replaced all the dry crusty vac lines already, including the lines going to the regulator. Did a pressurized smoke check as well. Other than slight leakage around the air filter box (where the two halves clip together) everything checked out alright.

I replaced the temp sensor with a dealer part. no change whatsoever. Any other suggestions before throwing in the towel?

2000 OBW. 150k Codes: P0172 (System Too Rich), P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304 (Cylinder 1-4 Misfire Detected). These all pop at the same time if I were to clear the codes. Car runs fine otherwise. I've had this check engine light for about a little over a year but within the last few months it began flashing at me. At first it would only flash when driving away without the engine being fully warmed. Now it occurs more frequently, warm or cold. Seems to run okay throughout. I don't notice any change in performance otherwise (slightly lower MPG's but that could be the winter blends). Some things I've done myself to troubleshoot: New plugs and wires (NGK on both. Blue Subaru wires), Plugs twice in the last year thinking it had something to do with the G-type NGK plugs. Went back to conventional. No change swapped coils with known-good coil changed fuel filter (the one by the brake booster) replaced dried vacuum lines vacuum leak smoke check running vacuum check (seemed okay) my gage has a green section on the dial that's supposed to be "normal". It was within that. replace A/F sensor (OEM from Subaru dealer) last year when the light first came on. Ran okay for a few weeks, then misfire codes came back ordered another one as a shotgun approach but I doubt that will fix it since the last one is only a year old. I use an OBD WiFi dongle and an iPhone app to check/clear codes but they're pretty basic. I'm at a loss now and don't know what else to check. Figured I'd check in with you all before I throw in the towel. Side question: Can this year Subaru send other CAN messages to the right OBD reader? Like fuel trims, etc. My thoughts are if I take it in to a well-equipped mechanic they can use a more sophisticated scan tool to diagnose more thoroughly than I can with my OBD dongle.

Edit: I'm wondering at this point if the springs are even worth reusing. The only source I can find for "complete" strut assemblies is RalliTEK and they're $1500 loaded with springs and the rears being overload springs which might be nice for the amount I haul in this car. $1500 is a hard number to swallow when I can get everything but the springs at Rockauto for $460. But man I really don't like swapping springs. PS this car is pushing 230k miles.

I'm going to be purchasing the parts to replace all 4 struts on my 2K obw. Before I get started I wanted to ask if anyone can offer up some tips on swapping the springs over? Such as position and what to expect as I compress the spring and release tension on the other one. I know they have a tendency to twist, slip, bind, all sorts of stuff. I want to avoid a situation where I didn't clamp them properly and end up f'd with no way to safely release them onto the new struts. Any tips would be appreciated. Also, I'll be renting compressors from the auto parts store. Would it be helpful to rent a second set from another store so I can clamp the spring from three sides rather than two? This part always sketches me out so I want as pain-free as possible.

2000 OBW with 206k, original struts all around Car doesn't seem to handle any different or worse but there is an audible 'clunk' or knock when I go over any uneven surface in the road, beit a pothole or crack in the asphalt. I'm told there's not really a method for testing if the struts are blown (like the bounce test on some older cars). I'm just assuming that at 206k they're probably in need? Is this a fair diagnosis? And the clunk I'm thinking is the upper strut mount? Should I replace them and what's a good aftermarket strut.

Thanks for the info and good call on the tool/clamps. I'll have to look into that more. But to answer your question.. OEM??? http://www.subarugenuineparts.com/auto-parts/2000/subaru/outback/base-trim/2-5l-h4-gas-engine/front-drive-axle-cat/axle-shafts-and-joints-scat

this is a 2000 OBW. Both sides show similar wear and I cant remember where I bought the pads but I always buy pads and rotors new. In fact I'm pretty certain I bought the whole kit. Loaded calipers + rotors. I'll measure the rotors later today.

OK So OEM Subaru boots huh? They're not terribly expensive $10 and $15 for inner and outer. Does anyone know if these come with they're own grease pack? IIR the last set of axles I rebooted came with its own grease and clamps. The Subaru parts fiche shows the clamps as a separate piece but no part number so I cant tell if it comes with the boots or not. BTW 2000 OBW

No other symptoms. Is it worth it tho? I dont have access to a parts washer anymore nor the time really. That being said, I do have more time than money so depending on the cost of a good OE alternative I would find a way to re-boot.

2000 OBW with 206k and original CV axles. I rebooted them once before a long time ago but noticed the drivers side is starting to fling grease. Should I reboot these again (not sure if these can be reused indefinitely) or buy new? What's a good aftermarket OE alternative to spending $600 at the stealership?

Tracking down a dragging caliper issue and noticed this when removing the caliper from the rotor. It looks like the rotor is either too small or the pads are too big. The upper edge of the friction material overhangs the rotor by 1/8th inch or so. Need to figure out which one of these is not like the other...

You bring up a good point. I noticed during my research that this "blower motor resistor" (thanks btw, I didnt know what that was) in most images I see stick into the duct about 2" and look like a heat sink with fins, whereas mine is flat like and looks more like the top of a PC's CPU. Similar to this image http://parts.subaruofpuyallup.com/images/uploads/SimplePart%20-%20Subaru/fullsize/a_20160803_1304529526.png Is it possible this may allow for a deeper fitting (different year maybe) filter which would allow less bypass? It seems odd to put a filter in there if its meant to leave room for that heat sink when mine doesn't have a heat sink. There would literally be a space between that resistor element and the back of the filter.