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can someone explain this "MY01 Slime recall" and all these HG horror stories? Does MY stand for Model-Year? I have a 2000 OBW, just rolled over 70k. Is there anything recall related to be concerned about? The guy I bought it from just had the 60,000mi maintenance service done on it, and according to the records they added that special Subaru coolant additive. Is this the "slime" everyone's referring to?

Ran into a problem the other day while shopping/parking in a major shopping center. I almost lost my car !!! I live in the Pacific Northwest where Subarus grow on trees; needless to say, every fourth car on the road is a Soob- every third is an Outback, none of which seem to be "customized" in any way shape or form. My question: What have you done to customize your Subaru- Outback or otherwise? Upgrades, mods, paint? Good, bad or ugly. Help me with some ideas...

What's the IAC??? and BTW, when I say "shudder" that sounds really worse than it is. basically when I hit the AC button I can "feel" the AC pump, or clutch or whatever it is, engaging. It's felt through the engine which is transfered and detected as a slight bump, or, well... shudder through the rest of the car. I almost wouldn't notice it except that it happens as a result of engaging the AC (press button, car shudders). Today I turned it on and my wife even said, "What was that?". If it's normal it's normal and I wont sweat it. I've just never experienced that with any other car I've owned...

2000 OBW 70k mi. This weekend while driving on the freeway I turned on the AC for the first time and I noticed a slight shudder from the car. Once the button was pushed the car ran like normal; when I turned the AC off it shuddered again. Is this normal for these cars? None of my other vehicles have ever done this. It's almost like the alternator is underpowered or something. Everything is stock (even the battery), in fact that brings up a second question; just before my 85 GL EA82 wagon blew a head gasket I bought a brand new battery for it. Do you think this battery will work in the OBW?

Another question: I found a couple mirrors on ebay. They're OE mirrors and one says it fits a 98-02 Forester the other says it fits a 03-06 Forester. Will either of these fit a 2000 Outback? They look the same with respect to each other- I've never seen an Outback one up close to tell if there's a difference. EDIT: I too could care less for the UV sensor. I just want compass and temp. I've also heard, however, that the OE's auto-dimming tint/technology is less than desirable. Any opinions?

Thanks for the tip. Is this the post you're referring too? FYI for you others- you'll have to register to view the images

I have a '00 Outback Wagon. I really want to upgrade the rear view mirror to an auto-dimming style with onboard compass and temperature display. How difficult is this to do? I'll have to run wires of course, but are the wires already there? Like tucked up behind the headliner? You know how a lot of manufacturers use the same harness for various models and just omit the extra options leaving the plugs to dangle there alone.

2000 OBW 5-speed, third owner, about to roll over 70,000mi. I did the search and I realize there are lots of topics that cover this, but they all seem inconclusive as far as cause, fix, and what Subaru has been able to do about it. Plus I'd just like help tailored around my own questions if no one minds... So, before I bought the car (68,666mi) I never noticed the clutch judder issue because when I test drove it of course it was warm. Once in my posession I did notice the judder but chalked it up as part of the learning curve associated with getting familiar with a new car and my out-of-practice stick driving skills. Then I noticed it only does it when the car is cold. Now, I'm pretty well used to the car and realize it's not "just me". Not to mention as I did research I've discovered this is a real issue not just an isolated incident. Any ideas what options I may have? Not too familiar with warranties since this is the newest car I've ever owned. I've heard there's a Service Bulletin regarding the clutch issue but have not been able to locate it. I've also read about people having their clutches replaced only to have the problem reoccur later on. What's the deal? Is Subaru doing anything about this? There's no way my cars under warranty still is it? If so would it even apply to non-original owners?

Please be sure to post a reply once you've found out what the cause and fix is. I just recently bought an '00 OBW and sometimes I feel like it's mis-firing or sputtering but again, I'm still getting used to the 5-speed manual transmission- convincing myself it's just poor driving habits.

I understand there are known hg issues with the 2.5's, also if I understand correctly, the issues were more common amongst the Phase I versions and not so much with the Phase II (correct me if I'm wrong so far). I just bought a 2000 Outback Wagon, it's a 2.5L but how do I know if it's a phase 1 or phase 2? Are there any identifying marks? What year did the phase 2's go into affect?

Pardon me for especially since I didn't read through all the posts throughly, but I have to agree that 90k aint sheeot. And as far as the "X-Mileage maintenance interval"... gimmie a break. I just picked up a 2000 OBW from someone who had a religious maintenance regeme. I started looking through the service reciepts and there's one from the dealer for the "60,000mi service interval". All they did was change the spark plugs and wires, drain and refill all the fluids; all for over $1000!!!!! WTH!?!?! And when I say fluids I mean, yeah the oil obviously, but they charged for coolant (which isn't a bad thing) and windshield washer and power steering fluid . So keep this thing, when it's time throw a timing belt at it, you'll be right there like you would with any other cars "major maintenance" interval. When it's time to throw another timing belt at it, then think about buying a new car. ...soobs aren't built to be desposable like Kia's are!

2000 OBW. No oil leaks or anything, but I just bought the car private party and the engine in mostly just dusty. I'd like to start fresh and clean so I can watch new developments as they happen. Whats the best way to clean these? I'd most likely take it to a coin-op car wash but I've heard different methods for cleaning- I.E.- "keep the engine running so any moisture entering any moisture sensitve areas will be evaporated quickly". Or, "DONT run the engine or you'll suck moisture into places like the intake and kill the engine". Thoughts, Comments???

Thanks for all the great leads. Truth be told, if it were me I would go with the CCR block simply because it seems the most reliable. However, this is for my brother who is a student and he cant afford much- infact I'll be doing all the labor myself for him- so price is definately an issue. I don't think we're putting anyone "out of buisness". Options are good especially when you're on a shoestring budget- any good buisness owner knows this. Thanks again!

Any idea on price? I emailed them but it's friday and I won't hear back till at least Monday. I'd like to make a move before then. Ballpark price is good... Thanks

Recently popped a head gasket on an 85 ea82 wagon. I'm thinking about giving the car to my brother but am wondering if I should do the heads again- yes, AGAIN- or just buy a crate engine or rebuild. Anyone have any good trustworthy, reliable sources?

Oil level is good, not black, still looks pretty fresh. I'm not sure what the mileage was when the oil was last checked (I'd have to dig out the service reciept), but according to the little window sticker the "jiffy lube" guys use it's not even due for its next change yet (due at 71K, current mileage is 68K). And no, it doesn't quiet down after the engine warms up. ...I'm hoping its' just the injectors!

Hmmm... Fuel injectors make sense, because the source of the noise follows the firing order. In other words, there is a "tick" AT the cylinder as its firing. I dont' think its the timing belt or tensioner because, like I mentioned, the noise is definately coming from four corners of the engine and not isolated near the front. Oil was changed religiously, in fact the sticker on the upper left windshield from the oil change shop says its next due at 71,600mi and the car's only at 68,700mi.

Scored a 2000 OBW off a local guy with 68k (never had a Soob this new ). The car is in near perfect condition and has been meticulously maintained. Infact I just dug out the service records from the glove box, the last receipt was from the local Soob dealer for the 60,000mi maintenance overhaul (basically everything but the timing belt). So I'm still getting comfortable with the car's little nuances, have been driving it less than 3 days, but today I had the hood up while the engine was idling and I can hear a very distinct "Ticking" noise. It's in cadence with the firing order and you can hear the source of the noise alternate based on what cylinder is firing. It sounds like the valves or something but it's fairly loud. I'm wondering if this is normal? I could probably post a sound clip later this weekend. BTW- I'm happy to announce myself as a regular member to the "NEW GEN" forums now!!! :headbang: WHOO-HOOOO!!!

I had a car that did this to me. Turned out there was part of an old locking gas cap stuck about 6" down the filler neck; as if someone lost the key to the cap and broke the top off and shoved the rest down the fill neck. I'd check for anything stuck in the tube (if you find its' not the gas pump iteslf).

2001 Legacy OBW 2.5l Checks out clean- two owners. PM me with your email and I can send you the report.

What is the VIN and what do you want to know about the car? I just opened up a 1 month subscription since I'm doing some car shopping of my own.

I've got a 1992 2-dr GMC Yukon 4WD that I'm looking to sell and or trade for a Subaru of equal condition or value you can see it here on craigslist. Some lady just offered up her 96 Legacy Outback w/ 150k. She says there's "NOTHING" wrong with it, just had it serviced etc. Other than that I don't know much about it. Obviously I'd check it out before I committed to anything, but assuming it was in "good" condition should I go for it? I asked her if the timing belts have been changed, still waiting to hear back. PS havent had anyone busting down my doors wanting to trade out their Soobs either. This is the first person.

Yeah forgot to mention that, did the clutch test. Didn't even buck- let off the clutch and it died instantly. The timing belt is something that is in the back of my mind. How easy is it to replace? I've done two timing belt changes on an EA82. Is it similar to that or more difficult?

So today I test drove a 2000 Limited Edition Outback 5-speed manual w/ 118,000 miles- infact here it is. Dealer wants $10,488. It bluebooks near the high 9's. When I run the Edmund's True Market Value report based on condition and mileage it drops to $6,357. There's a -$1,233 hit for mileage and a -$1,952 hit for condition, which I considered to be "average", here's why: It freekin' looks like the previous owners stored a pack of cougars in there!!! There's obvious signs of animal existence because there are claw marks on the door grab-handles, marks on the leather seats in the front and back, and tons of scratches in the cargo area. The interior panel for the rear hatchback is falling off- infact they used a ziptie to keep it in place on one side. The front bumper is showing signs of low ground cover inpact (like the car went into the ditch once). The rear is showing similar signs (like they pulled it OUT of the ditch the same way it went in). Not to mention all-in-all it just doesn't look well taken care of. Now on to the mechanical HERE'S WHERE I NEED YOUR HELP: It seems to drive okay, and I didn't drive it like my MOM either, I hammered it up a steep local hill, did lock-to-lock turns in a parking lot at an idle (no torque bind that I can tell), did an ABS brake test (there's only one way to do that:grin: ), took it on the freeway etc. So during all that I did notice one thing. When I shift gears (say from 2nd to 3rd) I run it up to a good 4-5000 rpm- just think a nice aggressive accelleration, like getting on the freeway- as the engine settles back into it's rpm range for that speed I can hear a "whine" or something which lasts only a second. It sort of sounds like when a turbo kicks in or a fan kicking on, but this is doing it after I change gears and the engine is dropping in rpms. I know this must be as hard to imagine as it is for me to describe it, but if someone knows what I'm referring to maybe they could nail it for me. Either way, what do you think this car is worth??? I was thinking of offering $8000 and going no higher than $9,500 out the door (tax & title etc.).

so any 2000 and newer legacy is the phase 2, what about the outbacks and forresters and such? when did they go phase 2? I guess the real question is, is there any notation on the engine that says its a phase1 or phase2 or do I just have to go by the double or single ohc?