211

The mid 90's, meaning the 2.2's right (non-interference and stuff)? And what is the "phase 1" 2.5, is there a phase "2" where they finally figured it out or what? That's the first time I've heard a 2.5 refered to as a "phase 2 2.5". Sorry for all the questions- it's just that I've finally gotten to where I've got the EA82's figured out...

So I'm shopping around; and I'm seeing a lot of mid to late 90's Outbacks selling for $4,000-$6,000 (respectively). But then I see mid 90's Legacies selling for the upper end of that all day. What's up with that? Am I just not digging deep enough into the details or do the Outbacks just not resale for as much? and why?

...most definately does! Well, thanks for all the help. Armed with this knowledge I'll be making a trip down south, stopping at a few used car lots, etc. Not going to buy anything just yet. Still trying to decide how I'm going to do this, so far I have 3 options: Take out an auto loan through my bank- Pros: lower interest (maybe) Cons: car usually has to be "new" or semi-new or have less than X amount of miles, that alone puts me into higher than comfortable pymts Take out a personal loan- usually higher interest, but I can borrow whatever I'm comfortable paying back. Plus I have the freedom of buying used at a dealer or used private party. Finance through the dealer- sometimes pretty competitive with bank's interest, but I have a problem giving dealers more money than they deserve. Would anyone agree that by buying from a dealer they've had a chance to shake out any problems???

Guys, You're giving me excellent information, I appreciate it! Will someone please confirm where the FWD fuse is? So far I got a "under the hood near the firewall, I think". Is this accurate? If I go poking around under the hood of one of these I'd like to go right to it- ya know? Thanks again- Hope to be joining your "New Gen" forums soon!

Thanks nipper, Don't mean to sound like a noob, but where's the FWD fuse holder? In the fuse-cluster box under the dash, or in the engine compartment somewhere? That's good advice about the torque bind BTW. Does the bypass fuse apply to all AWD Soobs?

Rented a car trailer: $50.00 Figured I'd save that in time and hassles spent. Thanks all

I'm in the market for a used mid to late 90's Soob. Something in a wagon- no sedans here. What are some things I should check for while I'm out kicking tires? Obviously there's the no-brainers like oil in the water, unusual clunking, ticking, or pinging noises... What else? Thanks Oh also: Loyale, Outback, Forrester or Legacy? Any opinions good, bad or indifferent???

Unfortunately, I HAVE to take the freeway for 90% of my trip and the State Patrol would be all over me if I pushed or rope-towed it. I was going to rent a car dolly from Uhaul for $40 and tow it with my truck. Its $50 for a flatbed but I'm having a hard time locating one. So I need to know if the dolly is an option (with out dropping the driveshaft).

Well, my Soob popped on me today. Started it up to leave work, before I could put it in reverse the engine shuddered, continued to idle like it were on 3 cylinders and white smoke began to pour out the exhaust. Work is 30+ miles from home (mostly freeway). I'm going to have to tow it this weekend but I need to know if there's anything I should know? 85 GL wagon ea82 push-button 4WD automatic. Can you use an axle dolly on these or do I have to disconnect the driveshaft? If so I'll just get a flatbed for an extra $25 Thanks, BTW, I got a subaru for sale! Just thought I'd mention, I did happen to read the post a few threads down about towing but it seems rather inconclusive whether or not the driveshaft needs to be disconnected. Plus mines an automatic. Normally FWD if that means anything.

Thanks for everyone's input. I agree with you all, and I think I'll pass on this. I'm driving a POS right now and don't need another one.

A guy at work is selling a 1990 Legacy wagon for 1500. I have not had a chance to see it but assuming it's in good condition inside and out (no rust, tears in the seat, etc.) is this a good deal? He says it will need a transmission soon. Here's a quote from his ad on our work's classifieds: Four-wheel drive, peppy 2.2L, 4-speed automatic Cruise control, AC, pw, yada yada Engine rebuilt at 218k, currently 259k Epinions’ suggested selling price is $2700 to 3700. Asking only $1500 because it will need a new transmission real soon now. Sorry if this belongs in the Newer Generation section, but I think it's marginal enough to post. Plus I'm familiar with more ppl here...

3: 180 4: 160 1: 170 2: 180 157k mi, 85 GL wagon EA82 carbed.

Nevermind... I called Schucks (finally got someone on the phone). Evidently both plugs will work, the difference is one is "V-powered" the other is not. So the new set has a v-notch at the tip of the electrode, the other is flat... Sorry I panicked, I'm just so used to Schucks giving me the wrong parts and having to go back over and over till they get it right.

Changing the plugs in an 85 ea82 carbed GL wagon. Got a set of NGK BPR6EY11 from Schucks aka Kragen, CSK Auto, Checker, PartsAmerica.com. The set I pulled out are NGK BPR6ES11 not EY11. The manual calls for ES11, but the only difference I can see between the two is the EY11's have a slightly longer electrode, but overall length seems the same. Think it'll make a difference if I use the ones Schucks gave me or did they give me the wrong part, ...AGAIN!!!

Thanks for the overwhelming support on this one guys. I forgot to mention; the motor is a '85 carbed ea82 w/ 157k. That being said, do I still need to disconnect the fuel pump? I'll update this in a day or so once I get some #'s BTW should I check each cylinder 2 or 3 times to get an average, or is that necissary?

Borrowed a compression tester from a buddy. Changing the plugs this weekend so I figured I'd do a compression test while I was at it. What #'s should I see on average? Anything else I should know while I'm at it???

I drive 35mi (roughly 60-70 round trip) to work every morning via freeway so that suggestion is part of my normal routine . This weekend I'll do a full tuneup (oil/filter and plugs at least). While I'm at it I'll do a compression test and check for leaks. Provided the timing and everything else is good what would be left, idle screw on the carb?

No black smoke when the car restarts. It doesn't spudder when it dies- when I come to a stop the idle will drop to about 7-900 RPM then over a fiew seconds the idle gets lower and lower till I notice the instrument and red idiot lights start to fade on, at this point the engines not completely dead yet, just damn close (a really really low idle), then I stab the throttle to get the RPMs up and power brake the transmission till the light turns green- freekin annoying. 85 EA82 auto wagon 166k miles.

Yeah, it says right on the can to add it to your oil... So now what? Compression test? It acts like the timing slipped but I find that highly unlikely since the only thing I did was add the can of seafoam and instantly my idle drops

Would a vacuum leak cause the engine to ping under heavy accelleration? This is something new that has developed since adding the SeaFoam also. I'll try the leak test this weekend when I have some daylight to work with. Otherwise I have to "heel-toe" it when I come to stop lights- that's super annoying!

During my last fill-up at the gas station I used a can of SeaFoam (first time using the stuff). I put a little more than 3/4 of the can in the tank and the rest in the oil. So far I've burned through 1/2 a tank of gas but now the engine dies when I come to a stop. It starts fine in the morning and in fact since I've added the SeaFoam it doesn't backfire anymore! But why would it affect my idle (or timing if that's the case)?

OOps, sorry everyone I just rolled into work when I started that post- was kinda in a hurry... Yeah it's an 85 GL wagon auto 4wd EA82 carbed. The carb was rebuilt a year or so ago (before I bought it). WTH is the ignitor? What's it do and where's it at . I thought fuel filter too but other than this one isolated incident it runs fine (for the most part). There's no better way to describe it other than sticky choke feeling, but again, cruisin right along, start noticing a bit of a sputter, then slowly dropping RPMs, the more gas I give the worse it gets- had to just barely give it gas to keep from wanting stall completely. Pulled over, revved the engine a few times, idle smoothed out and away I went. Drove home without issue too. Idunno, I'm myphed :-\

So this morning I'm on my way to work and about 5 minutes into my drive the car suddenly looses power and runs like it's on 2 or 3 cylinders. By loosing power I mean I had the gas pedal floored and the car went slower and slower. Normally I can hear the sound of the exhaust resonate through the back of the wagon and when I lost power it sounded really "sputtery" and felt the way a engine would feel just before it siezes!!!! So I pulled over, let it idle in neutral for a couple seconds, revved the engine a few times and the issue seemed to go away. I drove the rest of my 35mi commute without problem. During the rest of my drive to work I had time to think about it and I'm thinking sticky choke??? Does that make sense? If so what would make the choke stick and how could I clean it or whatever? Otherwise the engine seems to run normal- a little doggy when it's cold but that wears off after a few minutes.

Yes I'd be incredibly interested If you'd like to check the condition of them that'd be great, and keep me posted. RdNkBrt, if you feel like checking out some lenses for me I'd really appreciate that too! Realistically guys, I couldn't afford more than about $50.00 or so for the pair, plus whatever shipping would cost. I'm in the middle of a bathroom tile project that is getting out of control and I don't have much xtra moolah. Do appreciate everyone's willingness to help me out! BTW Same style as GoldDiggerRoo's image of the maroon wagon...

I know the diaphram you're refering to. So that's normal vacuum noise coming from there?