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I give up, what? :-\

Need to get a bottoming tap for my head bolt holes. Does anyone know what size it is? I might as well get a tap for the cam block bolts too; does anyone know what that one is as well? Sorry, I was meaning to bring the bolt with me to work so I could stop off and pick up a tap on my way home, but I forgot, so if someone could help that'd be awesome!!

I made a nifty tool for that; you could buy one I guess but I had the stuff so I made one. I took the hose off an old compression tester (just because it had spark plug threads on one end), and on the other end attached a fitting with a schrader valve. Then you can thread the hose into the spark plug of whatever cylinder you're working on and inflate it with an air compressor (or bike pump for that matter). When you release the keepers on the valve, the valves stay in because of the compression behind it. When you're done just push in the needle on the schrader till it goes, "Tsst" and thats it. Of course I used mine for mostly GM applications... On a soob it's probably just as easy to turn the motor by hand

Right-On I will!!!

Flippin Great! I've got $180 in Gasket Kits sitting here too. Anyone in the NW Washington area got a set of heads to sell??? I guess thats a different post...

Kay, so got the valves out of both cylinder heads. There is a crack between the intake and exhaust ports of both combustion chambers. I have not had these pressure tested, but do you think this is bad??? Or can I live with this a little longer??? The only thing the car was doing b4 I started this head project was pressurizing the radiator, no white smoke, no black smoke, nothing unusual. I was told to "not worry" if I saw cracks, because this is normal :-\ . But to what extent do I START worrying??? Cyl. #1 Exhaust Cyl #1 Intake Cyl #3 Intake Cyl #3 Exhaust Pleeeeaaase tell me I'll be okay. I just want this to run for a year or so more BTW; the other head is not nearly as bad

Okay, I'll try that thanks. Does everyone else agree on this method (not doubting your skills ShawnW, just making double-sure)? This is a one time shot for me and I don't want to screw it up. Also, by snapping the top off wouldn't I loose the sealing surface of the insert? Seems this perticular insert is designed for sparkplugs.

As I pulled the heads I noticed one of the spark plug holes has had an insert of somesort inserted. Problem is, the insert sticks out of the hole about 1/8 or more. Looks like the insert was not screwed down all the way or backed out. Either way, it changes the depth of the spark plug. This is with both plugs screwed all the way in. Notice the one on the right is not in as far. This is the one with the insert: No Insert side: Insert Side: Both holes showing. On the right is the insert sticking part way out: Close-up of the insert. Sorry; the macro on this camera sucks! I know this is not normal but does anyone think this will affect ignition at all? Should I take it to the machine shop and have this fixed?

Thanks for everyone's help! Turns out I got a kit from Schucks, IE; Parts America, Kragen's, Checker. It's a Fel-Pro kit but it's the right application so I don't care. I still think I'm going to leave the valve seals alone, simply because I don't have a compressor tool and don't feel like renting one for who knows how long. Also will someone please clarify something for me!?!? I've heard them called, Cam Towers, Cam Carriers, Cam Blocks, Rocker box, Cam Box. Are we using these terms interchangably or is there something I'm missing? The section just below the valve cover that the cam is a part of; it's seperate from the cylinder head, What is that called once and for all? Thanks!

No smoke, in fact at the time I stopped driving it, all it was doing was pressurising (sp?) the radiator. No oil in the water or viceversa, no smoke out the pipe. Can I pull the heads without removing the cam blocks?

Doing the heads (still). NAPA totally hosed me, had to "order" me the head set kit, took about 3days to get here. When it finally arrived it was the wrong one! The kit was up to year 84. Mines an 85. So now I'm running out of time because I had planned on working on this over the weekend. NAPA does have the individual gaskets, IE, Head, intake,exhaust etc. But no valve stem seals; correction they have "intake" side seals no exhaust side. And evidently there are none anywhere. Not even my local Soob dealer has em. My question is, can I get away with NOT doing the valve seals? Just take care of the Head gaskets and be done. Or wait till I have the right parts and do it properly? What would you recommend??? My nature says wait and do it right, but I'm getting frustrated with these cars. My 92 Yukon just ************ the bed on me yesterday so now I'm down to one car between the whole fam. NO-GOOD!

UP Really need some advice on this, my gasket kit is here on wednesday and by thursday I have to either take the heads to the machine shop or be ready to do them myself. Sorry for being impatient, gotta have this running ASAP! Driving my Yukon to work (35mi one-way) is KILLING me on gas!

Good to see someone else is going through the same thing; not to wish it on anyone just figuratively speaking. Yeah, I've been bugging these guys too for about 3 weeks, same deal, different car. Here's your "search" function: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46164 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46265 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46545 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46644 These are the threads I've started (in order), I'm sure you have or WILL have the same questions as I did, so save yourself some time and read along. Big props to all who've helped ME so far. Good Luck. And yes, it's not that big-a deal to pull the motor, I'm REALLY glad I did!!!

Right on man, kinda blurry on some of 'em but it gives me a good clue as to what to expect. How do you compress your valve springs? Do you have a compressor tool or is there some other homebrewed technique you can pass down to a newb Also, I notice you have a gasket kit, yet you're RTVing most of the mating surfaces. Are you RTVing instead of gaskets or in addition to? I was always told one or the other never both. But again this is living in GM's-ville.

CAM TOWER that's it, now I'm learning the nomenclature! Thanks for the input, and I'm not questioning you at all, but is it not possible to remove the head as a unit (head and cam tower togetehr)? I was going to have the heads checked out and pressure tested? While they were there have them replace the valve stem seals and whatnot, that's why I'm thinking remove the heads as a unit. You think this is necissary or something I could do on my own? Obviously I don't have a way to pressure test them, and I don't have a valve spring compressor either. What do you guys normally do at this point; do the valve seals yourself and (in my case) rent a spring compressor, then check for head-warpage with a straight edge? Also, what are the cam followers? I'm used to GM so I'm thinking something equivalent to Lifters.

Kay just to recap; I'm replacing head gaskets on an 85 GL 4WD AT EA82 carbed. Thanks to you all, I've decided to pull the motor (which I'm really really glad I did now that its out ). 4hrs, by myself, first time! Sorry, not looking for a cookie, I'm just proud of myself... So now I'm a bit confused. The engine is out and on the bench, I removed the valve cover and there seems to be two parts to the head assembly. I'm used to GMs so this is perplexing. There's a head just under the valve cover which the rocker arms and camshaft bolt to (for lack of proper term I'm calling this the Rocker Layer), beneath that there is another "layer" (which I'll call the Cylinder Layer). The obvious assumtion is, there are two parts to the cylinder head. What I need to know is, do I need to take the "rocker layer" off? Am I going to want to change that gasket between the rocker and the cylinder layer or should I let the machine shop do it when I have them inspect the heads? Also, I'm not sure this is a factory thing, but it looks like they used some sort of "goop" as a gasket between both the cylinder to block and cylinder to rocker layer. Between both of these assemblies there is a silicone-type, goop squashed-out all around the seam . Kinda lost at this point, don't know how deep I need to go.

Kay, Pull the motor it is! Wish me luck. I'm dreading all those vaccuum hoses, I don't have to pull ALL of them do I?

When doing the heads, what else could I expect? Supposedly the timing belt has been replaced shorly before I bought the car. Valve guide seals? Is there much of a chance I'd need to replace them? I'm getting a Head gasket "kit" from NAPA, not sure what all is included. I don't think valve seals are. I'm pretty sure it's just the head gaskets and any other gaskets that are involved with the teardown, IE, Intake and exhaust etc.

So I've decided to do the head gaskets myself as opposed to buying a rebuild CCR engine. I've never done heads on a Soob before let alone pull the engine. I need some advice though, pull the engine or not? The head work would clearly be easier with the engine out but how much easier versus the extra time and energy required for a newb to do an engine pull. ...can I even do the work with the engine in???

Need to replace head gaskets, comma, the car has 160k, comma, and leaks a quart a week. Yes it leaks out the valve covers as well, mostly from underneath and/or in front. Need to steam clean it to pinpoint it exactly. Basicly the whole underside is black and oily. This is acutally an extension of Another Post I made yesterday. (Sorry in advance if linking to other posts is not allowed)

I need to do some head gasket work, never done heads on a soob before so I'm kinda leary. The car has 160k miles on it, leaks about a quart a week. My dilema is; do I do the heads myself or bust out and buy a new motor? I'd be ordering the engine from These guys... Here's his reply from an email I sent this weekend: "Thank you for your inquiry. An EA82 engine is $1125/exchange + shipping. Based on your zip code, non-residential shipping should run about $190. As you know from our web page, this is the most complete rebuilt Subaru engine you can buy: all you do is swap over your accessories (manifold, hoses, pulley, etc.) and it's ready to install. Your engine comes to you complete with even spark plugs and a Subaru oil filter. We do not usually charge a core fee if the engine is returned within 4 weeks: you pay to have your engine shipped to you, we pay to have the core returned to us. If the engine is not returned in 4 weeks, or is incomplete, there could be a core charge of up to $175. I look forward to your reply. If you have additional questions, please do not hesitate to contact me." So I guess the question is, is this a good price? Or should I just buckle up and redo the heads myself? Problem is, I just don't know what else I may run into once I get that deep! 85 4WD GL Carbed, Auto, 160k miles

85 GL 4WD EA82 Carbed Automatic. Never owned an auto subie before so I don't know. At freeway speeds of 60mph it tachs up to 4000 RPM, which sounds really high (I mean "sounds" as in audibly sounding). Sounds like it could really use an overdrive. Is this normal? I'm wondering if this is part of why I'm only getting 22 (or so) mpg, not great considering gas prices nowadays. I had an '80 sube FWD with carb issues that got better mileage than that, although it was a 5-spd. Just wondering if this is normal or not. The tranny is supposedly "rebuilt" so I'm wondering if they geared it different.

No white smoke out of the tailpipe either. BTW Edit= 160k mi, 120 is my P.O.S. '95 Dodge Decrepid (that's a whole other post on a whole different forum:banghead: ). The other thing is EGR. The EGR light has been on since I've had the car and from the looks of it has been on for a long time prior. There are signs of tape residue over the light that indicates someone has tried to cover up the thing up; lol Anyway, could this be anything related to my problems? Or is this problem #2. So semi-easy fix huh? Looking at it it's a spaghetti farm of vacuum hoses in there (gives me a migrane just to take off the air cleaner). Any special tools I'd need?

First off I'd like to say hello and thanks in advance for helping me! I have a 1985 GL 4WD 1.8 carbed; (EA82) with over 120k mi. Since I've had it (4mos) I've noticed an exhaust smell coming through the heater vents, particularly when I'd excellerate from a stop. Never paid much attention to it until I started overheating in traffic one day. Pulled over, sure enough bubbles in the radiator and exhaust smell in the coolant. Head gasket time right??? Well these symptoms are the only signs; there is no water in the oil/oil in the water. My concern is, is this typical of something more major like a cracked head, or exhaust port? And I'm wondering, with this many miles is it even worth it to have repaired or should I find a used/rebuilt one? My local subie mech said $700 min for the repair, that's a phone quote and assuming there is nothing else wrong with it. My other question is, will a EA82T drop into this car, because I've been seeing these on ebay for less than it would cost to have the heads done (these are 40-70,000 mile imports from Japan). Also from a scale of 1-10 (10 being total pain it the butt, take it to the shop), how difficult is it to replace the head gaskets on these things? Assume my mechanical aptitude is moderate to semi-advanced (mostly in GM and domestics). Thanks