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Ooops sorry... SOHC 2.5

Just wondering if the cams and cam caps need to come off in order to replace the HGs. Probably a dumb question because I suppose you'd want to repace the valve guide seals while your in there which would require the whole head to be torn down...

GOT IT! Definitely a combo of big screwdriver, pry bar and working both sides. Helps to have the right angle when the engine starts to seperate too. At one point I had to lower it and choke up on one of the chains so it tilted more down in the back. Thanks all

2000 OBW 5-spd. Pulling engine to replace the clutch, I've got engine mount/crossmember disconnected, transmission raised a good few inches, engine on hoist raised to clear the mount studs, all bellhousing bolts out, dogbone disconnected on the tranny side. Seems like it's just seized up and I cant find a good place to pry the two apart and cant' get room to swing a hammer. I'm positive I've got all the bellhousing bolts out; 4 on each side right? Alternating one's a bolt ones a stud, bolt... stud... starter (bolt... stud...) etc. there's only 8. Any suggestions? I'm rocking it back and forth but that's just jerking the tranny around too, I'm afraid I'm going to disengage a driveshaft or something.

If I lick + the other catergories expand showing only one or two sub catergories, and very limited lists under that (about the same as what's shown in the screenshot). I would believe java might be a version or more behind at work but at home I keep everything up to date. FF and IE both display the same limited info. Oh well I can always just call; thats a safer method anyway.

1stSubaru.com's parts catalog list is not very extensive at all. When I select Year/Make/Model then click Engine/Transaxle catergory, it expands a subcatergory called Engine Parts with only three items listed; Filler Tube, Tube, and Valve Cover. I'm viewing in IE at work and it appears the same on FF at home. When I called 1st Subaru the other day to get a quote for parts he said that didn't sound right and his browser is displaying a lot more than what I'm seeing. I find it odd however that both my browser at work and the one at home show the same 'short list' of items. Is anyone else seeing this? Screen shot attached

Thats good advice. I feel comfortable leaving the heads alone for now knowing I wont' get stranded. I just know, in order to do the HG's properly I'll be spending more money than I can afford right now. Murphey's Law told me last week, "Go ahead and spend $2,000 on new flooring for your living room, I'll be sure something breaks on your car." Sure enough... Cant even finish the trim on my flooring; that went into a new clutch kit Oh and one more question. Now that I almost burst into flames because of my choice in oil filters, what does everyone recommend? Subaru OE; seriously??? I usually buy Bosch filters. This is the first Fram I've bought since owning a GMC Yukon.

See comments below in the quote. I'd like to be able to budget for the head repairs for the semi-near future. Hoping to eek another 50k out of her before then. I'll pull the engine sometime this week and take better photos, for now the leaking doesn't appear too severe. I guess my main question is if these leaks are catastrophic or just slowly get worse. In other words, will head gaskets that leak oil suddenly pop, overheat and mix oil and coolant leaving me stranded?

It's hard to tell what 'minor' is. I can get more pics once the engine is out. I did not want to turn this into a head job because I do not have the funds; 135k miles, can I push 200k looking like this you think?

Cool... What about the upper firewall mount. Looks like it's connected to the trans, could I leave it alone since the transmission will be staying in?

When pulling the engine is it necessary to remove the engine to mount bolts or can I just pull the crossmember bolt and pull the engine mounts out with the engine? The rearward engine mount bolt seems a bit difficult to access; looks like it's between the crossmember. Also, whats a good bolt hole to lift from in front that will provide the best balance. There's a rear lifting eye but nothing in front.

Edit: I have updated/better photos on page 2 2000 OBW 2.5l SOHC manual 136k I'm in the process of removing the engine to replace the clutch. While I was underneath I noticed a blackish ooze between the engine block and the heads on both sides. It feels like oil not coolant but it's right where the head gasket seats. Have a look and tell me what you think? Drivers' Side: Pass Side: I was hoping to avoid turning this into a head gasket job but I guess now would be the time since the engine is out..

Thank you. I will definitely check the valves while I have the engine out. For a SOHC EJ25 are these screw-type adjustable or shim?

Oops, sorry- 2000 OBW ej25 SOHC. Pilot comes with the kit so that'll be replaced as well, and all spark plugs are being replaced. Valve cover and oil pan gaskets are not leaking but anyone care to comment on whether or not I should adjust the valves? I've never done them before and I don't know if they ever have been done.

Just trying to get my ducks in a row here, sorry, I feel like I'm over thinking this job a little bit sometimes. I'm planning on pulling the engine to replace the clutch this weekend. Any other suggestions as to what else to replace/repair/inspect/maintain/etc while I have the engine out? The car has 134k on it, original clutch, timing belt and all related pulleys including the wp were replaced at 103k. Regular mainenance was performed during the time I've owned it. I'm planning on replacing the following: clutch parts (pressure plate, disc, t/o bearing, clips) including machining the flywheel baffle plate; plastic to metal (unless it's already a metal one) spark plugs I will not do the timing belt, head gaskets or rear main seal. What about the valves, I did NOT adjust them when I did the timing belt. Should I do those? They're not noisy at all. Also what about the flywheel and pressure plate bolts, replace or reuse? Sorry should've merged my 'replace/reuse' post with this one, now I can't delete it.

Do you guys ever reuse these bolts? I'm about to tear into my clutch this weekend...

Okay, I'm doing this myself then. Exedy clutch from Clutchcity=195 free shipping That's way better than the 300 the shop quoted me (no it's not the dealer

Thanks for the feedback guys! GG, I'm 99.8% sure the head gaskets have not been replaced. I bought the car from the second owner when it had 67k miles. He had all the service records and did everything through the dealer. His last service record was for the 60k maintenance interval. Breaks and all fluids were replaced at that time. GD, The timing belt was replaced by me at 103k. Okay, so.. do not replace the main seal unless it needs it do re-use the old head bolt if I decide to do the heads. I know I'm tempting Murphy's law here but I think I will take my chances and forego the head gaskets at this time. Based on the quote from the shop and the relative ease of replacement, I think I will to the clutch myself and save some coin. I'm in a bit of a financial pinch because I JUST installed new flooring in my house and I'm tapped! The nice thing about doing the clutch myself is I will have experience pulling the engine once it does come down to the HG's... Also, I'm looking at clutchcityonline.com and it appears the clutch kits (p/n: 15-021) don't go back farther than 2001. Is it safe to assume the 2000 would be the same? Part numbers are the same for 2001-2005

I'm leaning toward doing the HGs then if no machining is necessary. Do you recommend replacing the head bolts with new ones? Crank/cam seals were not done when the timing belt was done. What's the baffle plate? My local mechanic quoted me a PCV cover and hardware. Are we talking about the same thing? I've also heard it being referred to as the oil pump cover or something?

2000 OBW Kay so last weekend my clutch started slipping in 4-5th gear while merging on the freeway (135k on OE clutch). I managed to get to work and back home but I'm reluctant to drive it anywhere else since at this point I'm likely to end up stranded. I had a local shop quote me 825$ to replace the clutch. This included tranny fluid, rear main and flywheel resurface. 800 is a lot for me to spend but I really dont' have the time or the space to do this project myself at the moment. But I want to share some scenarios and get some feedback from you all. I'm 'convincing' myself I need to let the shop do it. Why? mostly to save time and just get GET IT DONE. However, considering it's got 135k miles and has never had issues I'm wondering if I should do the work myself and at the same time replace the head gaskets? Again, no issues at this point; timing belt was replaced right on the 103k mark (of course bearings, tensioner, wp, etc). I'm also a big fan of the "if it aint broke..." See where my dilema is? if I do the work myself I'd still be spending quite a bit of $$, I'd be cracking into the heads which don't necessarily need to be done... yet. But also I'm creating a week + job for myself, not to mention the weather and space and ... ugh... also if I do replace the HG's will I still need to have the heads resurfaced even though nothing leaked or overheated? EDIT~ I should also add FWIW, last year I had an issue where the car was throwing CEL misfire codes, with the help of USMB members I did tons of troubleshooting trying to isolate the issue, including vacuum and compression tests. All were good. Great compression and good vacuum. I ended up throwing in the towel and taking it in. The problem turned out to be a intermittent flakey fuel injector. They had to put it on the scope to find that one...

So you change filters three times for every one oil change? Interesting. Is this good practice for conventional oils too? Obviously changing filters is a good thing no matter how often, but I've always just changed the filter when I change oils and call that good.

Does anyone have an open carfax account? Would you mind running this VIN: 2D4GP44L45R174966 It's for a '05 Grand Caravan. I know it's not a soob, but it's on behalf of my soob. We're down one car and with my wife driving my Outback around the way she does I'm afraid it won't last. So the van will be her's so I can have my beloved Subaru back!

2000 OBW 125k miles (oe clutch). Yesterday I was sitting at a stoplight and suddenly this overwhelming stench of burning clutch filled the cabin. It wasn't a "...hmm, I think I smell something", it was an "OMG! My car is on fire!" smell. The light turned green and eventually the cabin aired out and the smell disappeared. I was hoping it was someone else because the car drives like normal and shifts and accelerates as normal. However sitting at stoplights on my way home I could still smell 'something', not nearly as bad but there was a scent of something hot. So my question is, how do you know when the clutch is finally going to go? Is there a warning or will it suddenly not work one day?

Has anyone installed an aftermarket stereo with built in GPS? I just picked up a Pioneer AVIC-F700BT (double din) it has it's own GPS antenna but I don't want to route it to the outside. I'd like to keep it simple and put it on the dash. Will I see any accuracy or interference issues? Also, in order for the GPS to navigate properly I have to tap into the reverse lamp wire (aaaaaallll the way in the back). If I could find where this wire is under the dash that would save a lot of headache.

BTW, these guys over at iSimpleSolutions offer great plug and play options for factory car stereos. But some devices are almost as much as an aftermarket head unit.