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Don't know if this helps but here's the VIN: 4S3 BH6751 Y6667982 I need to find out the manufacturing date. I’m trying to buy a steering knuckle/bearing/spindle assembly from the junk yard and evidently there’s a mfg. split. They have the part for after 12/99 but not before. I need to know which one is mine. They want $80 for the whole assembly (no guarantees), is that reasonable for a jy part?

My 2K OBW has been experiencing the classic WUB-WUB-WUB-WUB, of the drivers side wheel bearing. Before I decide to tackle this job on my own, I'm wondering what kind of bearings do they use? Is it a one-piece sealed type that you press in and press out or is it a roller style that has an inner and outer race with a caged bearing? If I do this myself I'd have to take the hub to a shop and have them press the bearing out (if it's the one-piece sealed type). Don't know how cost/time effective this would be if I had to pay for labor also.

Well, after reading around a bit it looks like I don't have the right sealant anyway. I have the Permatex Ultra-Grey but no anaerobic sealant. My car is down and it's a Saturday. I have to get this up and running today so there's no cure time in there. I'm crossing my fingers here but hopefully I'll be alright for a while.

2000 OBW SOHC manual non-LTD. I'm replacing the timing belt and all other necessary components including the oil pump o-ring that everyone recommends replacing. How do I pull the crankshaft sprocket? Based on other threads regarding timing belt replacement I didn't think there were any special tools required for the job. You all make it sound so straight forward (which it is for the most part); until I get to the sprocket. So is there a tool to remove the crank sprocket? I don't want to pry on it 'cause I just know with my luck I'll snap off a sensor tooth. Here's the other thing. This thread is sort of a moot point because if I were to get as far as pulling the oil pump it would have HAD to happen tonight for RTV curing purposes. There did not appear to be any leaking around the existing pump mating surface so I figured I'd be okay for a while. If the consensus on the boards is "yeah man, that o-ring HAS to be replaced!!!" it wouldn't take long for me to tear back into it later down the road. So what's the trick? And since I'm going to be putting the engine back together in the morning, am I at a serious risk by not replacing this o-ring?

That may be why my local dealer couldn't find a match for the AA181... I guess the key takeaway here is that my VIN has a "B" in the 4th digit, the timing belt 13028-AA21B is for my car which is a 2000 Outback. Wheuw! How such a tiny piece of disclaimer paper could cause such a ruckus!?!

Hmmm... that's weird then. I just got off the phone w/ Walker's Renton Subaru (I.E. www.1stsubaru.com) I asked for a timing belt part number for a 2000 OBW and he said 13028-AA21B. I then asked if there were two different belt options for that year range (only difference being tooth profile). He said, it's based on the build date of the engine. Feb '99 - Feb '04 all call for the same 13028-AA21B number. After Feb '04 there's two options but that 'AA21B part is still available through till '06. I did not ask what the "optional" part number was. He said unless somthing weird happened to my engine, it's "99.9% probable" that the part number mentioned above is the correct one. Which is the one that came in my kit. Cross my fingers though *EDIT* Called my local subaru dealer (Dewey Griffin). They gave me the same part number Walker's gave me. I asked them to cross reference the other 13028-AA181 part number and they didn't have a match. I told them the story how I have two different part number options and he said, "I dont know what that second part number is but the number you need for that year is 'AA21B.

If this is true then I think I'm okay. According to PCI's part catalog the timing belt in the kit I have is a B307 which is the appropriate belt for my fourth digit VIN letter "B". I'll call the dealer this afternoon and verify.

Ordered a timing belt kit from ebay [PCI timing belt set PN TS26307 for 16v SOHC 2000-2003]. Everything looks great except there's a document enclosed that says: This is NOT cool! So it sounds like there's no way of knowing untill I have the whole thing torn apart. If I have the wrong belt I'm SOL! According to the contents list on the box it's a 223 tooth belt. This is for a 2000 OBW non-LTD

...well is more of a rythmic "Whuuh, Whuuh, Whuuh, Whuuh, Whuuh..." Comes from the drivers side wheel, frequency is proportional to speed, the faster I go the faster the noise is. Amplitude of the noise is related to load. So when driving in a straight line the amplitude of the noise in volume is say "4" (on a scale of 1-10), when turning right it's a "8", when turning left it's a "3", in other words it gets louder when turning right. It's been making noise for quite some time I just haven't had the time or been able to afford to fix it. It is getting worse and getting worse faster now though so I'm going to fix it over winter vacation along w/ my timing belt. The CV boot is good, no tears or holes which makes me think it's a wheel bearing but my experience w/ wheel bearings is it's more of a constant noise, not pulsating noise like this. Thoughts or suggestions? I know we all like OEM parts when it comes to our Subarus, but if it's a bearing I could probably get away with a NAPA part right?

I found this nifty instruction manual online (direct PDF link). It says it’s for an STI but looking over the directions and illustrations it looks identical to the other 2.5 DOHC engine instructions. In fact comparing it to the endwrench.com manual, it seems much simpler. One question I have is, why in this manual, do they insist you reset the tensioner using a vertical press and NOT a lateral vice like we all have in our garage??? Anyone see a problem using this guide for my upcoming timing belt replacement?

Click here for ebay ad NOTE: This item is normally $227.00 but is on sale for $183.00 for the next two days. I intend paying the sale price. This set includes: 1 Timing Belt (223 teeth) 1 Tensioner (tensioner & hydraulic cylinder combo) 1 Lower Idler (sprocket with bearing) 2 Upper Idlers (2 req. 1 left & 1 right) Quickly coming up on 105k miles on a 2000 OBW Legacy. Searching for timing belt parts but since I can't break the bank or starve my family I need to do some price comparison. Also, I intend on replacing the water pump and any other applicable parts. I plan on keeping the car as long as possible so a balance of reasonable prices and good quality is a must. EDIT: Then there's THIS water pump from GMB. $40.00? OEM price at 1stsubaru is over $100!!!

THanks guys. I checked it out while I was in the parking lot this morning (using the white lines that divide the parking spaces as a straight edge). I think the drivers side tie rod needs to come out a tad. Yes, I counted the threads before disassembling the old tie rod unit. In fact I used digital calipers to measure the same two points on both old and new. They were right on when I put it together, but evidently something is not the same about the two... I'm still planning on an alignment next week. I just want to get it close now because I can hear a Whuuh-Whuuh-Whuuh-Whuuh-Whuuh... while I'm driving on smooth surfaces. Don't want to chew up my tire before I get it in.

I replaced the inner and outer tie rod ends on the drivers side yesterday. It was a direct replacement so I made sure that the new tie rods (fully assembled) were the exact same length as the old ones. Now the steering wheel is clocked to the 11:00 position when driving in a straight line. Alignment feels good cause I can let off the steering wheel driving down the road and the car stays straight. I'm planning on taking it into the alignment shop soon anyway but in the meanwhile is this something I can adjust relatively easily?

OMG! That was sooo easy!!! I can't believe I waited so long to do that. It took me longer to get that stupid boot back over the steering rack than it did to do the rest of the work

The inner tie rod came packed with grease already. It's pretty thick, like Crisco Shortening...

Sorry if this has been posted before, but I stumbled on this while researching tie rod replacement. I already downloaded the file; it's pretty big (50Mb+). At first glance it looks like the same manual you'd get through SOA. Kindof a pain since all the files are broken up into individual non-descript pdf's with names like "MSA5TCD00L17482.pdf". Whatever, I'll take it! Direct Download here Username: manual-01; Password: monsterenergy Or goto the main page here

I'm pushing 96k ... The guys at les schwab told me the inner tie rod needs replacing. Figured I'd just do both inner and outer while I'm in there. Also, I peeked under there and the boot is torn on the inner and grease has flung out so, yeah I'ts probably bad. I can feel it shimmy when braking and when I go over bumps- getting worse too. So question: Does the inner tie rod thread into the steering rack till it bottoms out? Or is there some threads exposed that I need to count? From the looks of it, the only exposed threads (alignment adjustment) is between the outer tie rod and the connecting rod to the inner tie rod. ...That's just a quick glance under the tire yesterday.

For a one-time use tool, I don't know if that's practical to buy one. What's the procedure for doing it without the tool? Is that the 22mm?

Just bought an inner and outer tie rod end (and the boot too) for my 2000 OBW. I've done ball joints before, in fact I have a ball joint puller (U-Shaped tool with a threaded shaft through the center). The inner tie rod looks a little hard to get at however. Looking at the new part there's flat sides on the "knuckle" end. It appears that you can lock onto that with a large end wrench to unscrew it. Are there any other steps I'm not aware of? If I start unscrewing the inner tie rod is there another section of linkage that will start spinning? And installation, I don't see any jam nuts or anything, do you just crank down on it till it's tight? The outer tie rod end is self explanatory. I dont' have a manual so I'm going in blind...

Wow, I come back three days later and this thread has grenaded! Anyway, I'm sorry to say that the CEL has come back again. Haven't had the code pulled yet but I assume its the same knock sensor error. Just ordered one from 1stsubaruparts.com only cost $112 and a . Hopefully I'm not wasting my money.

When the light came on the first time someone suggested I fill the tank with premium gas. Of course I cleared the code and it didn't come back right away, but the second time it came on I put a tank of premium in it. Two days with the light on and running premium fuel and the light just went out on it's own totay . We'll see if that's just coincidence, a fix, or an intermittent failure in the knock sensor (from being cracked).

WHAT!!!!

Kay, so order a new knock sensor I and I should be good to go...

At least according to the search results, this is not just another knock sensor question. I have a CEL P0325 Knock Sensor error that I cleared the other day but two days later it came back. My question is, what causes the Knock Sensor to go into fault to begin with? Is it that the sensor detects a knock and sends an error or does the sensor go bad and cause the engine to knock (by not allowing the ECU to correct for the knock because the sensor is bad)? Reason I ask is, I cleared the code once but then it came back two days later. Now, with the hood open and engine running I hear a slight knock or "tap". but it seems to be coming from the front of the engine and sounds like a loose fan shroud or something. Does not sound like its coming from inside the engine. For all I know the knock has been there since day one and I'm just hyper-sensitive now that there's something wrong. BTW, it's not the injectors, I can hear them firing separate from the noise I described. So again... a) Bad sensor: causes knock? or Something bad is happening to engine: sensor is working and sending fault. If B (god I hope not) what might it be? Engine runs fine still even w/ light on and has been rock solid since day one. 2000 OBW

FWIW; I have a neighbor (don't know him very well) that leaves for long stretches at a time; up to a year once. He drives his car onto a clean, heavy-duty tarp, then bungies (or ties it, I'm not quite sure) the tarp up and around the sides, then uses a car cover to cover the top and overlap the tarp. This seals it like a present. I guess the idea is to prevent moisture from coming up from the bottom where it will just be trapped by the car cover. Before I sold my GMC Yukon because I couldn't afford gas, I had it parked in the driveway for months at a time, I used that stuff called Dri-Z-Air (or something like that). Comes in a little plastic container which is a bowl on the bottom and a basket on top, you can get it anywhere. The granules go in the basket and it absorbs moisture from the car collecting it in the bowl. It would collect about 1/2" of water a month in really damp seasons; so I'd say it works pretty good!